Charles Albert, who stopped using climbing shoes some five years ago, has added a three move lower start to his La Revolutionnaire in Fotainebleau, making it his first 8C+. Charles says he do not think it is possible with shoes as there is a good pocket where he can squeeze in his big toe pulling in hard, meanwhile with a shoe, you can just push with your foot. In total he needed around 15 sessions. In the picture, the previous sit start is marked with red dots. Previously he has done three 8C's. Is this the hardest boulder in the world to repeat? Probably, any of the top boulders would need years of preparation to develop the big toe pulling in strength as well as the barefoot technique Charles possesses.

Patxi Usobiaga, one of the very best competition climbers in the history has done Pachamama 9a+/b in Oliana. It was put up in 2009 and it has been repeated five times out which some have said it is hard for the grade. Patxi is the first to suggest 9a+/b. Patxi's story of the eight year battle. Patxi has a special relationship with this route cause back in 2009 was where he got injured his shoulder and months later due to the car crash he stopped climbing for years. Last april Patxi sent again 9a+ with Papichulo and then he tried the route for a while. (c) Javipec

For every of the 5 000 crags in the 8a data base, you can find a season diagram that can help you to find the best time of the year to visit a specific crag. The upper diagram is from Leonidio which just might have the biggest proportion of winter ascents. Below you have Kalymnos diagram, which shows a stronger concentration during late spring and autumn.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Díaz. And writes on his scorecard: "Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going! " Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.

Leah Dempsey has in just four session done Sleepy Hollow 8A (+) in Grampians and the amazing thing is that she started climbing in 2013. In 2015, she did her first 7A boulder and last year she did her first 7C. In Lead, she has jumped from 8a to 8b+ in 2017. "I don’t know if I have fast track method for my progress, apart from the fact that I enjoy the whole challenge of training and taking responsibility for my own climbing and progress. Also having a super supportive and encouraging network have helped an insane amount. Believing is key! Oh, and having lots of fun!" So what about training? Mainly just bouldering in the gym, campusing, fingerboarding, as well as some basic core and shoulder stability exercises. Nothing too strict. All depends on the project/upcoming trip at the time. I make sure that I have at least five days off every four months to not burn out.

Luca "Bbazooka" Rinaldi has flashed his first 8B through a solo mission on Blinded by the Light in Brione. "It was an unexpected thing. In the morning I saw Jimmy's (Webb) video. Almost always his beta is perfect for me, we are taller, we weigh 80kg and climb the same way...I wanted to try it before trying Nike (the project of the day) ...I've always thought that "the flash try" is just one for life...many times I do not try to flash the hard boulder...i think: I can't do it...but this time as in some cases I sat there and I did my first attempt from the start with the free mind and I was on top of the boulder...After 10 ten seconds i realized that in guidebook this is 8b...

Claire Buhrfeind, who won the qualifications in all three disciplines in the Youth Worlds in 2017, has set a new personal best in Speed by 8.90 in the Pan American Youth Championship. In comparison to the other female athletes going for the Olympics, she is totally superior as the others still struggle mainly with 12 seconds. In 2016, Claire was #7 in the Lead World Champion and in Bouldering her best result is winning the Youth World Championship. (c) Eddie Fowke

For several years, we have ranked the best winter destinations in Europe and last year we said Leonidio is #1. The weather statistics from he last 10 years show rather stable weather with around 10 degrees with many sunny days and few rainy days, even if January 2017 was pretty bad. Climbing wise, there are 1 300 routes divided in some 60 sectors including many multi-pitches. We stayed at Troumpas close to the see who also is a farmer. Climb in Leonidio (c) Sam Bié As Leonidio is like 3.5 hours from the airport, I very nice option is to stop at Nafplio halfways with great climbing mainly up to 7a in great scenary. The picturesque city and the old fortress makes the visit even better. 45 min south of Leonidio, you will find Kapsala with an amazing red wall packed with high quality routes around 7a. If you continue 30 minutes more you reach Kyparissi which is a beautiful village by the see surrounded with walls with just a couple of minutes approach. Hotel Paraliako is 150 metres from the small harbour and 500 meters from a nice sector with 30 routes in the sixth grade. They try to become the center of climbing and plans to build a warming up wall etc. In Kyparissi, you also have Babala which is the best hard core sector in Greece and in reality a future world class wall 7c and above. Kyparissi (876 ascents) is #1 in the world's trend crag rating followed by Leonidio (6 405 ascents).