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Paweł Jelonek and Christof Rauch have done Dave Graham's super classic 8C, The Story of 2 World's in Cresciano. Actually, Christof did it twice as he later also did Dai Koyamada's low start 8C+, calling it 8C, where you practically start laying from the other side. "A dream became reality! When I climbed "The Dagger" for the first time I don't thought that I could climb this problem ever! But a few weeks ago I found some new microbetas and it felt so much easier. At first I made a team ascent of the normal start together with Pawel. Afterwards I checked out the lower moves with no big expectations. Sometimes it seems like this is the key to success and after a hell of a fight I stood on top of this amazing boulder and nabbed the second ascent. Thanks to the awesome crew!" Christof, working full time as an engine technician, is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Damien Largeron Short interview with the 24 year old who the last four years have done 100+ boulders 8A and harder each year.

Here are some Safety First tips that you always should have in mind. The picture shows a loose rock that was taken down from a trad route in Göteborg. Just below, there is a a school, houses and a frequent path so we had to drill a hole and rappel it down.

Quick decisions and dynamic moves are what counts doing onsights and here is probably where you can improve the fastest. The easiest way is simply climb routes and boulders with just using one arm or one leg. Normally the indoor routes are deliberately build so you can always stay in your comfort zone but this soft training will make you hesitate when some other techniques are needed. Do not do too much training with just one arm as this can make you injure your shoulder and you can also switch arm every five moves or so. Another option is to say that you for the other hand are just allowed to take the smallest holds. If it is routes on your maximum you can use all footholds on the wall. In order to get stronger using just one arm you are also allowed to grab your wrist which actually can be useful also on specific routes. Remember that the more you are just climbing the comfort zone routes in your gym in combination with projecting down personal best, the smaller your move repertoire will get.

Dai Koyamada, one of the leading climbers the last twenty years, reports on Instagram that he has done a new 8C FA in Yakushima. The 41 year old has in total opened close to 30 boulders graded 8C and in this category he is rather superior.