NEWS

Ninth 8A+ by Nina Williams
Nina Williams has done her Window Shopper in Flagstaff which is her fourth 8A+ the last eight months and she is #2 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Alex Kahn "Extremely finger-position specific. Getting the far right hand determined how the come-in move to the crystal crimp felt... The crystal crimp determined how the next three slaps felt. I used an insecure high right heel for the end moves and never trusted it. Came down to micro-beta and getting out of my own head. Not sure if I ever really got out honestly... Just pure luck on the send :P Epic mental battle."

Adam Ondra reports on his Instagram, with 174 000 followers, that he has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's Meiose in Charmey on his 3rd go giving it a personal grade of 9a+. In the video below you can see Adam finds a no-hands kneebar. Out of all 36 9a+ (b) and harder listed on 99 boulders.com Adam has done 24. Including also his latest recorded 9a, Retour Gagnant in St Legere, "Done with a headlamp in the end of the day. Waiting for the big projects to dry up, hopefully...", Adam has now done 153 9a's and harder. Here you can sign up for one of Adam's training session in March in Spain.

Picchu - Great small kids helmet from Petzl
Picchu from Petzl is a light weight kids climbing helmet that has also gotten official standards for cycling. The testing children have all liked it wearing it for multiple hours. It is said to be designed for kids in between 3 and 8 years old but that might be stretching it a bit as the headband is 48 - 54 cm, meaning some 8 year old might find it a bit small. Other than that, it is easy to adjust and it comes with reflective stickers so your kids can personalize it. In general another high quality Petzl product.

Reza voted as IWGA Athlete of the year 2017
IFSC reports that Reza Alipourshenazandifar, who set the Speed World record last year at 5.48, has been selected as the Athlete of the year by ยฉ International World Games Association. In 2014, Adam Ondra won after having become the double World Champion in Lead and Boulder. โ€œWow, already two Athlete of the Year awards for sport climbing, the most of any sport,โ€ said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. โ€œCongratulations to Reza for this success as well as for his achievements in 2017. He is the fastest Speed climber and the first Iranian athlete to win gold at The World Games. Keep climbing!โ€ IFSC and the climbing community just might need tp get prepared that Speed climbing will be at least as popular in the upcoming Olympic Games 2020.

8c+ again by Rafa Fanega (43)
Rafa Fanega has done his fifth 8c+, Alhakan in El Chorro, the last 9 months. The 43 year old did his first 8c when he was 35 years old and first 8c+ when he was 39. Interestingly he started climbing when he was 16 so we are talking about a really late bloomer. Rafa has bolted 1 000+ routes and most of which he has paid from his own pocket. In total, he has recorded almost 2 000 routes on his scorecard. "For me bolting is as important as climbing." The picture is from last year in Fin del Mundo where the 163 cm tall has put up most of his routes (c) Rual Santano.

Nacho Sรกnchez reports in his Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Beto Rocasolano's test piece El Indomable 8C+ in Tamajรณn, Spain, calling it hard 8C. In total Nacho has done six boulders 8C or harder out of which four FAs, including Crisis. Is this one of your hardest problems? Yes it is, but Crisis 8C (+) took me more effort cause maybe it was not my style. El Indomable has some endurance but also has much less moves.

Innsbruck World Championship 6 - 16 September
Click on the picture for the schedule for the Innsbruck 2018 World Champion. The Combined will take place the last days and the next week, they will present the detailed intensive program for that day.

Ramon Julian Puigblanque #1 in the male IFSC history
Ramon Julian did his first Lead World Cup in 2001 when he was 19 years old. In total he has now done 120 WC's including being #8 in his last 2017. He has won 20 WC and gotten 6 599 points which is most in the history among the male. Three times he has won the European Championship and twice the World Championship*. Overall, the 159 cm tall could be considered the best ever male IFSC competitor. *In 2005 he won the semifinal but his coach did not know the changed the isolation time so he was not allowed to compete. Instead he saw most topping out the final route a way too easy route! Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Most points, wins and medals in the comp history
Here is the Top-10 in the IFSC history based on World Points where also World Cup wins and World Champion titles have been added. As can be seen only three male made the list and this is because more female have done both Lead and Boulder and that the male WC wins are more spread out, especially in bouldering. Based on this, Kilian Fischhuber's 21 WC Boulder sticks out. It should be noted that Angela Eiter finished her career only 26 years old. 7 451 Mina Markovic SLO: 22 WC wins+0 WCH (2 Podiums) 6 751 Akiyo Noguchi JPN: 18 + 0 (4) 6 672 Jain Kim KOR: 27 + 1 (3) 6 599 Ramon Puigblanque ESP: 20 + 2 (2) 6 329 Jakob Schubert: 18 + 1 (2) 6 130 Kilian Fischhuber AUT: 21 + 0 (2) 5 968 Muriel Sarkany BEL: 20 + 1 (4) 5 759 Sandrine Levet: 22 + 1 (2) 5 224 Anna Stรถhr AUT: 22 + 2 (2) 5 116 Angela Eiter AUT: 25 + 4 (0) It should be mentioned that the Boulder WC started in 1999 and in general there has been less Boulder WCs which makes it easier for the modern generation to make the list. The Lead WC started in 1989 and in the early years there were less competitions. Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou should have been much higher up in the list if there would have been as many WCs in the early 90-ies. She won 37 % of the WCs she did and made it to the podium 74 %. Only Janja Garnbret beats this win 50 % wins and 88 % podiums and Liv Sansoz and Suzi Good are very close with 35 % wins and 73 % podiums respectively 32 and 74 %. Liv was world champion three times and Suzi twice. Among the male, Adam Ondra is together with Francois Legrand and Alex Chabot, the most superior in their time. Here are others that should be mentioned based on their overall track record. Note that Romain Desgranges is the oldest successful IFSC competitor peaking 35+ after having struggled for almost 15 years. The youngest WC winners are David Lama and Johanna Ernst who both won in their first Lead respectively Boulder WC being just 15 years old. 5 396 Sean McColl: 3 + 0 (1) 5 047 Jorg Verhoeven: 4 + 0 (1) 5 020 Maja Vidmar: 12 + 0 (2) 4 352 Romain Desgranges: 5 + 0 (0) 4 025 Dimitri Sharafutdinov: 12 + 3 (0) 3 875 Tomas Mrazek: 10 + 2 (1) 3 539 Francois Legrand: 17 + 3 (1) 3 500 Patxi Usobiaga: 6 + 1 (3) 3 122 Shauna Coxsey: 11 + 0 (0) 3 093 Adam Ondra CZE: 14 + 3 (8) 2 137 Janja Garnbret SLO: 13 + 1 (0) 2 989 Jerome Meyer: 11 + 0 (2) 2 946 Robyn Erbesfield USA: 14 + 1 (2) 2 548 Liv Sansoz 11 + 2 (1) 2 545 Alex Chabot: 21 + 0 (1) Sachi Amma, Martina Cufar, Rustam Gelmanov, Olga Bibik, Yulia Abramchuk, Isabelle Patissier, Shauna Coxsey and Yuji Hirayama can also be mentioned having also made great marks in the IFSC history. Part of the source of this gathering is Heiko Wilhelm's great book Beyond the Face. We will follow up with an overall male and female IFSC history ranking, based on their overall track record which will be subjective as the number of available competitions have varied over time. Later we will also make an individual presentation of the 8a the Top-10.

There are now 4 295 crags and 1 767 Boulder areas in the 8a database where you can get specific info and Tick list. This will help you to find the best climbs around the globe. If you would like to add more, just click on the link "Add" to the left and find the link. It takes 30 ascent to make the data base.