NEWS

8c+ FA by Dani Fuertes (37)
Dani Fuertes has done Quijote Total 8c+ in Alquezar and he goes to #5 in the 8a ranking game. In total, the 37 year old has done 46 routes 8c+ and harder out of which ten the last year meaning he is at his peak. (c) Chus Arranz "It was bolted by Javier Arnaudas โ€œSetaโ€, a mythical climber from Aragon. It goes across a beautiful buttress in the cave sector. The route is full of amazing boulders."

Based on close to 2 000 voptes, "Other sports/hobbies beside climbing?" and in comparison to a poll in 2010 here is the results: 16 % Hiking (11 % in 2010) 16 % Skiing (19 %) 14 % Running (15 %) 12 % Biking (Not available) 11 % Music (18 %) 09 % Yoga (Not available) 08 % Photo/Video (14 %) 07 % Computer games (9 %) 06 % Other (10 %)

2 March 2018

Chipping?

8B+ by Dave MacLeod (39)
Dave MacLeod, one of the best multi discipline climbers, has done the second ascent of Malcolm Smith's Gutbuster at Dumby from 2010 and here is his report. As always interesting reading Dave's thought about his send that started with some hard tries ten years ago. In September, he separated his shoulder and then he had some sessions in November where he understood he needed to build up his strength. On his second session the last week it was snowing. "On the third try a full on blizzard started while I was on the shakeout. My hands went numb and I fell off Sanction, but even if I hadnโ€™t, the top holds were full of snow and Iโ€™d never have made it through. I retreated to the cafe for a brew while the snow raged and then returned and brushed the snow off the holds. But it was getting dark and getting silly." Anyhow, on his "last go" he could not see one foothold in the gloom and without taking off his shoes he started again and made it to the easy slab top out, "crimping the hell out of the damp snowy crimps. Getting off the boulder was even more of a gripper! The descent climb faced directly into the snow and was snow covered slippery death."

Two 8B+' by Jules Nicouleau (19) in Font
jules nicouleau is on sending train in Fontainebleau just before the French Championship this weekend, having done two 8B's and his first two 8B+'; Kheops Assis and Gecko assis. (c) Clรฉment Lechaptois. In 2016, he was #2 in the European Youth Championship and last year he did his first two 8B's How can you explain your recent progress? I'm actually training for outdoor bouldering and for competitions. The french championships is this weekend and I have tried to be in best shape possible. I climb a loot! I'm not following a real preparation. I'm doing a little bit of board session and that's all. I climb on hard boulders and that's training me. Being in shape for the competition also mean that I'm in shape for rock. I hope to be selected for the World Cup and for the World Championship in Innsbruck. With the good conditions in the forest I decided to spend my last week before the comp by taking as much pleasure as I can, hanging out in the forest trying some hard boulders with friends!"

Clipstick a forgotten beginner safety device
Clipstick is a safety device that normally used for pre-clipping the first bolt. Jonathan Siegrist video shows have this can be done just using a stick also including how to clip the rope into a hanging quick draw. On the market there are several more advanced clipsticks which makes it possible also to take out the quick draws from the bolts, brush or even install a camera on top. In practice, clipstick know-how is possible the most important skill for any gym climber wanting to try outdoors, often with the first bolts high or far apart. Further more, it can be used to more safe put the rope in the anchor from above, without having to lean out 20 meters of the ground, or to set up another top-rope from a neighboring route. It just might be a nice investment for every gym and clubs to buy some clipsticks and let climbers test them out possibly also by setting up a course also talking about run-outs and ground falls etc. We plan to follow up with some reviews.

Tickets and Updates for the World Championship in Innsbruck
The IFSC World Championship in Innsbruck 6 - 16 of September will be the biggest climbing competition ever and the organizer runs a 2.5 million Euro budget. Beside intense days from estimated 650 starters there will be free slide shows, rock trips, lectures, film festivals and concerts. Here you can buy your tickets. For Euro 65 you will get access to all eight finals.

Snow in Margalef
28 February 2018

Snow in Margalef

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who the last three years has done extended over-seas trips including home-schooling, is back in Siurana where it has been snowing for two days. During her first trip being 10 years old, the Australian did her first 8c and actually her parents does not climb. "I still havenโ€™t been able to convince my parents to climb so no they still arenโ€™t climbers :)"

Margo Hayes extraordinary portrait
Outside Online has published a long portrait with Margo Hayes covering La Rambla 9a+, Biographie 9a+ and the Olympics - The Extraordinary effort of Margo Hayes. โ€œI donโ€™t know what my limit is, and thatโ€™s so exciting,โ€ Hayes says. โ€œItโ€™s like youโ€™re chasing this running carrotโ€”it doesnโ€™t stop moving.โ€ The picture by Matty Hong, which received 24 000 likes, is from when she had become the first female to have done 9a+ through La Rambla being 19 years old. In the Youth World Championship in 2016, she got two golds and in 2017, she was #3 in the Combined.