NEWS

The Youth World Championship was planned to be organized in Canada 7-19/8 but this event was cancelled one month ago. Moscow has now applied for it using the same date. The official decision will be taken 17/3.

9a+ FA by Joe Kinder (37)
Chris Sharma reports on his Instagram that Joe Kinder has done the FA of Life of Villains 9a+ in Hurricane. Two months ago, Joe reported on his Instagram, "ONE HANG!! (after 4 years of working this beast)." (c) Joe Segreti Joe Kinder has been very active on the scene for 15 years always sharing his passion and joy for everything in climbing, including setting up hard routes and creating great videos. Here an interview from 2013 we did with the "always psyched". "It's been a wild experience man to say the absolute least. I am very happy as its been an emotional moment for me. The send yesterday was just a glimpse of the whole story and experience. The grade, title of FA, and all the other terms we use to validate an accomplishment have very little weight when I think about the experience. This is a story I will take with me forever and I am so proud."

Nico Favresse, one of the leading multi discipline climbers for many years, reports on Facebook that he has flashed China Crisis. The Oliana route is one of the most repeated and confirmed 8b+'s in the world. The Belgian being 38 years old, say it is like 8a+ old school grading.

8C FA by Beto Rocasolano
Beto Rocasolano publishes on his Instagram account his FA to Hipoxia 8C in Navalosa, Spain. ยฉSara Richart "Yesterday could send Hipoxia 8C in Navalosa, the inverse of Parรกlisis 8C, but IMO is more obvious cause goes in an ascending traverse, but I have to come back and send the descending one."

9c+ by Adam Ondra in august 2021
Regis Portalez has done a mathimaticl study of Adam Ondra's progress through grades from 8a to 9c. "The equation is 3.3678ln(x). That means He will cross the 9c+, 6 922 days after his first 8a (08/20/2002). Which makes 08/02/2021.

La Rambla 9a+ by Jon Cardwell
Jon Cardwell comes with the great news on his Instagram that he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. This year it took ten tries but the process started last year. Previously he has done some 10 - 15 routes graded 9a, the first one in 2008. (c) Greg Mionske Congrats! So what made the send in the end? Thank you! Not really sure exactly what made things work, except that I was just really excited to climb again in Spain after suffering from a bad finger injury last July. I worked patiently all late summer and into the fall/winter to rehab my finger and strength appropriately without risking re-injury. When I arrived in Spain, I felt refreshed and more motivated than ever to just enjoy the climbing with good friends. Also, I worked the route for a couple weeks last year when Matty and Margo climbed it, so I began this trip knowing all the beta quite well. This was the ascent #22 in total of Ramon Julian Puigblanque's classical route from 2003 which makes it the most popular 9a+ in the world. In 1994, Alex Huber made it to a first anchor calling it 8c+ but with the today grade standards, his version is considered 9a.

Based on some 500+ votes, "Which comps do you like the most?", and in comparison to similar polls over the years, we can see that Bouldering is getting more popular. 29 % Lead 61 % Boulder 01 % Speed 07 % None 02 % All

09:00-12:30 Semi-Finals 13:30-17:00 Finals

8c onsight again by Piotr Schaab
Piotr Schab,#2 in the 8a ranking game, has onsighted Los ultimos vampiros hippies 8c in Margalef."My 5th 8c onsight and I must say it gave in pretty easily! Hard to tell if it was the matter of my shape or just an easy number Anyhow itโ€™s just as satisfying! And what is more, itโ€™s most probably the first on sight of the route!" (c) Mateusz Haล‚adaj Congratulations! What is the next plan and ambition? Thanks! Iโ€™m trying Fight or Flight in Oliana and thatโ€™s a big goal for the spring. Feeling more than ready to climb a 8c+ onsight which is another goal of 2018. Iโ€™ve been in Spain for two weeks now, coming back to Poland 13.03 for 12 days to Rest properly and train a bit at home and then back to Catalonia.