Last year, Janja Garnbret set a new record winning six Lead World Cups and three in Bouldering. In the Combined WC, she almost had twice as many points as the runner up. This year the 19 year old Slovenian has started by being #2 and #1 but she has said on her Insta that she will skip the next four WC events. Most probably this relates to save some competition energy and also get the best possible preparation for the World Championship in Innsbruck as well as focusing on her last semester in school. In fact, skipping some World Cups have been part of her strategy since she entered the scene in 2015, when she just did three out of seven Lead WCs, with the worst results being #3. The good news for Janja, in regards the Combined title, is that it is only from the two best results the overall ranking will be multiplied. With the Olympic qualification coming up in 2019, it just might be that Janja and other top climbers will limit their WC appearances in order to save energy. Instead their full focus will be on the Combined WCH and if they miss there, the Special qually event or even the Euro Combined qually event. The same focus should the Japaneses have as the Combined WCH will most probably determine the only spot they can qualify to the Olympics. Japan also have one spot as the host but this can be selected in any way they want. In other words, it just might be the the Overall World Cup for Lead and Boulder in 2019, will loose it's importance as it is all about making it to Tokyo 2020 that counts during the World Cup season 2019. (c) Eddie Fowke

Laura Rogora, #6 in one World Cup last year, has done the FA of Sitting Bull 8c+/9a in Collepardo. "It is a very long and pumpy route that connects "bruce lee" with "crazy horse" and I think it could be 8c+/9a. Moreover, to finish the day in the best way I sent "Calligaman" 8b+ second go. The 16 year old has previously done two 9a's out of which the first when she was just 14 years old. Last year she was #6 in the European Champion as well as in a World Cup. "I m leaving today for Spain with a focus on onisght and fast redpoints. I will spend six days in Margalef and I think that these days will be the last on rock because this year the season is very long and full of competitions. I will compete in the youth competitions and in the world cup circuit. In October in Buenos Aires for the youth Olympic games. Then I hope to have time to spend again on some hard routes."

Ryan Air will start flying again from Berlin and Dusseldorf 3 + 3 times a week starting in June until late October. Some years ago, they had some 30 weekly flights from seven airports in Europe but the last years, everything was cancelled.

Moritz Welt has during the last three weeks done three 8c's and Markus Bock's Demonized 8c+ in Frankenjura. "Chipped, Short and painful but good moves." In the 8a Combined junior ranking, having also done seven 8B's and harder during the last two months, he is #2. Franz Kaiser

1985 1st official competition, Bardonecchia: Stefan Glowacz wins 1986 Arco: Patrick Edlinger and Catherine Destivelle in front of 10 000 spectators and seven TV channels 1987 1st Arco Rock Master: Lynn Hill & Glowacz 1988 World series: Jerry Mofatt 1989 1st World Cup, Leeds: Moffat and Erbesfield 1991 1st World Champion, Frankfurt: Francois Legrand & Susi Good 1992 1st Youth Championships, Basel: Sarkany, Bibik, Petit etc 1999 1st Bouldering WC: Christian Core and Stéphanie Bodet 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo

The start of the Speed World Cup in Moscow put the light on the problem with false start, falls and very little excitement. Out of the 16 female runs, only 2-3 can be said to have great excitement.The biggest problem is the false starts which we actually did see in five cases for the female and four times for the male. What about just adding 0.5 seconds or so for a false start and have them run again? Climbing is getting into the Olympics and what a big anticlimax if there will be a false start in the finals. Female result board which is actually pretty comic, in spite of Anouck Jaubert's tied world record at 7.32.

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Dalton Bunker has done three 8c+ the last week including the FA of Fire Pit Project again 8C in American Fork. "Finally put the "fire pit project" to rest! Classic american fork power. I finished through the wizards crux and stopped at the burning/melting chains(bats out of hell was too wet) i also replaced the original start with cannibals direct,it may be harder or the same im not sure but this routes gotta be the hardest climb i've ever done considering the number of days i put into it. Could be 14d its hard to say as i've never climbed one. Big thanks to Jess for getting me psyched to try the route." (c) John Evans On his Facebook he has published several videos in regards his interesting thoughts on taking Cold Showers, Eating and Stretching etc.

Cathy Wagner has done two 8a+', in Aixorta, Los Angeles de Daddy and Bien atrapado. "A perfect link-up starting on the first 5 bolts of Buenas migas then leftwards into Atrapados. This combo skips the chipped start and the no-hand rest straight after. Good knee-bar skills make a difference in the upper part." During the last month, the 52 year old has also done seven 8a's and in total she has done 645 routes 8a and harder. Is there any female who has done more? Interestingly, it seems Cathy continues to progress and her last year is actually her best ever. If she would have participated in the 8a age bonus ranking game, Cathy would have been #2 in the world after Adam Ondra.