Owen Whaley has done the second ascent of Zach Galla’s Sosa (8C+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT). ”Satisfied with this one. Tried in the fall with Adam, couldn't touch the sit moves, felt psyched in the spring, and dug it out of the snow, which was fun. A bunch of really fun sessions with good friends. Shout outs to Zach and anyone who put in work. Great way to kick off the summer.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
So I first tried the sit moves in the fall after doing GI. It felt very hard at the time, trained all winter and was really psyched going into fall to start the projecting process. Dug it out from under snow, which took 4 days. By the time the boulder was fully dry I had good links and was ready to start giving ground rips. I think 8 or 9 sessions. Really cool boulder, sustained power endurance all the way through. Definitely very in my style.

Hamish McArthur, who was #5 in the Paris Olympics, reports on Instagram that he has done the second ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Megatron (9A) in Eldorado Canyon. The 17-move test piece adds an 8C/+ low start to Tron (8B+). Hamish sent it after five sessions, having fallen seven times at the top on the day of the send. (c) Jess Glassberg - ”One of the most amazing moments I’ve filmed in climbing.

Hamish skipped the first World Cups in China but he will be back on the comp circuit starting with the World Cup in Salt Lake City, then Innsbruck and finally the World Champs in Korea.

How did you come up with the idea of trying Megatron, how was the first experience and the following process?
I was always planning on doing a big outdoor climbing trip in the states. I have a van here and it’s a shame not to use it. As for Colorado and Megatron, well that boulder seemed to have a slight mythical status. First of all it was unrepeated - and not for lack of trying to - so I wanted to see what that was all about. I love climbing that allows for creativity, and the 3D nature of the climbed seemed like it would allow me to climb with style.

The first time we went up to the boulder I got pretty shut down on the start. My tactic on session 1 is to be as creative as possible. I tried every kind of beta I could imagine. It was hot but I managed to fight my way up the v14 end section “Tron” towards the end of the session.

The process was spiritually intense. I figured out the moves on session 2 and started putting them together into promising attempts in session 3. Getting over the finishing line with this boulder was the crux. I knew I could do it, but actually doing it took a lot of energy. In session 4 I made it to the second last “hard” move and at the start of session 5 I dry fired after doing the last of these hard moves. It took 6 more attempts climbing almost to the lip before I managed to keep everything together. So, 5 sessions total - but I don’t want to see climbing as a purely efficiency problem. I want it to be about depth and appreciation instead of how quickly you can get into and out of.

Hugo Parmentier, with 14 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has done Joe-cita (9a) in Oliana. ”70 billion metres and the rests that go with it. Super happy. Swartzy might not have done it but it requires a hell of a fitness anyway. Tess always all in my good and my less good times. ❤️ (c) Williclimb

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’m proud to be able to send such huge and endurancy route! It is sooo long. Basically you climb a 5 meter section and take a real rest all the way up the 45m. By the way I used kneepads but I don’t know if Adam and the firsts repetetors used them. I believe it is 9a anyway. This route makes a lot of sense eventhough it’s a link up. You take the hard bit of Joe Blau and the best section of Morenita. The direct versions and this link were really good routes to try after tries in Papichulo or now in Joe Mama. Psyched !

Sera Gearhart has done Columbian Bowtie (8A+) in Castle Rocks (ID). The 27-year-old has sent seven boulders 8A+ or 8B the last year and she is runner up in the ranking game after Caroline Sinno. ”Combination damp top out and impending wall of rain motivation. First t today! I’m not the same climber I was 5 months ago.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the progressed you made the last five months?
I came to try this boulder in the fall and was really excited to do it, but then due to family events, weather, and work I didn’t make it back out there again until now. I remembered really clearly using a particular beta where I double clutched a move when I first tried it since it felt easier than bearing down on a small crimp. Coming back, I did it on my first try but I used different beta because my fingers felt much stronger. It was nice to see the progression!

Erin McNeice and Seo Chaehyun topped the qualifications and semis at the Wujiang World Cup. In the final, both hit hold 41 in 4:26, tying for the gold.
Seo: “It’s my first win in four years and I can’t believe I won with Erin. It’s the first time to win together with someone else on time as well.” McNeice: “I purposely tried to climb it quickly, but obviously not quick enough. It was a lot of fun though and I really enjoyed the fight.”

Michał Korban, who last year sent Action Directe as his first 9a, has done Jungle Speed as his second. (c) Mateusz Haładaj

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I wanted to try this route for some time. After watching videos, I thought it suited my style because it’s bouldery. During the first two days I couldn’t stick the crux move (the one in the photo). On the third day, when the temperature dropped a bit, I finally managed to do it, but needed one more to complete the whole route. So on the fourth day, after falling in the “easy section,” I was able to climb the entire line.

Sorato Anraku, fresh off his win at the first Boulder World Cup of 2025, topped the final route in Wujiang to claim his eighth World Cup victory. ”I went back to Japan after Keqiao and only trained once in Lead, so I wasn’t expecting to win this event. I’m not aiming for the overall World Cup Series, but I’m aiming to win every event. Then I guess the overall will take care of itself. But I go one event at a time.

Jonathan Siegrist, with a total of 83 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has completed Erebor (9b) in Arco. ”A bad ass strength enduro test piece from Stefano [Ghisolfi]!! So incredibly psyched!”

The 39-year-old has had a steady progress for like 15 years and he is now #2 in the ranking game, 3 points behind Stefano Ghisolfi.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
So last winter was our first time in Arco. We were totally blown away. I was trying a different route but it proved too cold for me at that cliff so I spent some time checking out other stuff - including one try on Erebor. I had it in my mind during January and February and trained pretty hard for it specifically. It's a bouldery, powerful route which can be a weakness of mine.

When we got back in the middle of March I felt like the training was really good and I made rapid progress on the route, but then after a couple weeks I totally hit a wall and just could not break through this one section from the ground. After several more days I finally got through that section and felt like I could send soon! Unfortunately at this moment the weather totally shifted and the rain was intense - plus it suddenly heated up quite a lot. I kept trying but some days the route was wet or the humidity was just insane. We extended our trip as late as we could, and finally yesterday there was some wind and good vibes and everything clicked!

Noah Wheeler, who earlier in 2025 climbed two 9A’s, has made the first ascent of Crash Out (8B+) in Elevenmile Canyon. Just a few days later, the roof line saw its first repeat by his brother, Benn Wheeler.

Yesterday, Noah completed Echalo (8C) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO). ”Tried this a few times over the last few years and the first move always felt impossible. Today it felt pretty chill! Wet-fired out of the gaston 3 times (the climb was in a cloud) before managing to send. Feels more one-move 12 into 13 than 11 into 14.”

Katie Lambert, with six 8b+’ under her belt, has done High Country Lover (8c+) in Pine Creek. The 45-year-old needed well over 30 sessions during four seasons for the send of the Ben Ditto route that sits at some 2 400 meters elevation.

Can you tell us more about the ascent, the process behind and peaking at 45?
Its the second ascent, and has been tried by a few others. True to my post when Ben first started climbing on it years ago I couldn’t do the “crux” and the rest just seemed overwhelmingly burly and I felt like;

1)it would be completely badass to be able to climb well on this thing
2)in order to do that I would need time, patience and would need to get stronger
3) and what a worthy goal.

Having limit projects at home is kind of ideal for all of that as it takes some of the stress of “time” and “access” away. However being south facing and a little at elevation there were a lot of challenges with “conditions”. Each season I tried I would creep up to the end of the season having almost sent and then get shut down for many months due to weather and temps and then have to kind of start all over again when the sending seasons arrived.

Last year having gotten close again and then shut down I told myself I needed to level up my base strength and mental game in order to get it done within the good windows we have. I was aiming for this past fall but what with climate change and all the weirdness that brings we didnt have much of a fall with things going from an extended summer to freezing winter. So I told myself to prioritize for spring, stay relaxed but focused with it, and just do my best.

You know the game- try your hardest but be completely unattached to the outcome. That mindset really had me approaching this climb more as a practice than really anything else.

Peaking at 45, I’d say its really the Euros and Bill Ramsey that inspire this for me. And tbh I don’t think I’ve fully peaked yet- lol.