The start of the Speed World Cup in Moscow put the light on the problem with false start, falls and very little excitement. Out of the 16 female runs, only 2-3 can be said to have great excitement.The biggest problem is the false starts which we actually did see in five cases for the female and four times for the male. What about just adding 0.5 seconds or so for a false start and have them run again? Climbing is getting into the Olympics and what a big anticlimax if there will be a false start in the finals. Female result board which is actually pretty comic, in spite of Anouck Jaubert's tied world record at 7.32.

Dalton Bunker has done three 8c+ the last week including the FA of Fire Pit Project again 8C in American Fork. "Finally put the "fire pit project" to rest! Classic american fork power. I finished through the wizards crux and stopped at the burning/melting chains(bats out of hell was too wet) i also replaced the original start with cannibals direct,it may be harder or the same im not sure but this routes gotta be the hardest climb i've ever done considering the number of days i put into it. Could be 14d its hard to say as i've never climbed one. Big thanks to Jess for getting me psyched to try the route." (c) John Evans On his Facebook he has published several videos in regards his interesting thoughts on taking Cold Showers, Eating and Stretching etc.

Cathy Wagner has done two 8a+', in Aixorta, Los Angeles de Daddy and Bien atrapado. "A perfect link-up starting on the first 5 bolts of Buenas migas then leftwards into Atrapados. This combo skips the chipped start and the no-hand rest straight after. Good knee-bar skills make a difference in the upper part." During the last month, the 52 year old has also done seven 8a's and in total she has done 645 routes 8a and harder. Is there any female who has done more? Interestingly, it seems Cathy continues to progress and her last year is actually her best ever. If she would have participated in the 8a age bonus ranking game, Cathy would have been #2 in the world after Adam Ondra.

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Reino Horak, former Swedish National coach who now works as the National coach for Norway, shares his somewhat boring experience looking at the 3.5 hours boulder finals in Moscow. He has previously possibly seen a dozen boulder finals in the front row but this was the first time way back with the spectators. - Within an hour, many around me started to get bored during all these one minute breaks in between tries. After two hours even myself started to loose interest as it was just too many dead moments. Normally, when I am in the front row, you can observe so many details and feel the pulse, breathing and the adrenaline from the climb. Sitting just 50 meters away, I must say, after three hours, all these dead moments with long waiting in between attempts, the format need to be speeded up giving more excitement for the spectators. Around me I actually saw people almost fell a sleep in their chairs. The simple solution is to just the female and male compete at the same time but personally, I would like to go for the solution as pointed out in the 11 point system format with three climbers rotating at the first three boulders.

From the World Cup rankings we can see the total Japanese male domination, six in Top-13 and 8 in Top-17. Among the female, two in the Top-3. In regards the world ranking, based on the last 12 months, 9 male Japaneses among Top-15. It must be very few sports that have seen such an extreme domination from one country. Runner-up, is the very small country Slovenia with just 2 million inhabitants, with two in Top-7 among both male and female. Based on that the next two World Cups are in China followed by one in Tokyo, most likely, we will see an even stronger Japanese domination in the ranking lists coming up. Last year, Japan participated with 41 athletes in Tokyo but this year they will be allowed to compete with 47.

Alex Puccio has done her 25th 8B, Green in the face in Cadtle Rock and amazingly it went down in just some 45 minutes. "3rd try from the start and 5th try in total. Fell going to the last hold before the send go.... really sharp rock, but fun climbing for sure!!! Lots of small holds, my style I guess. :) Small little crimpy holds on about 30 degree overhung wall." Alex at 153 cm and 56 kg's says she is some four kg's heavier than the last year. "Honestly haven’t felt like I’m in great shape since the past 4 months. I can definitely feel the weight difference right now when I climb, but I still feel strong and powerful."

Five of the female semifinalist in Meiringen made it to the final also in Moscow and the one missing, Sandra Lettner, did not participate. Among the male, four are the same as in the last event. Japan and Slovenia got three in total to the final and the Japanese domination continues with four male in Top-10 and three female in Top-8. Complete results All boulders were topped out and in fact, based on the top out percentage, it seems they were all of similar difficulty. This is very seldom the case and the route setting also in terms of style and variation were extraordinary great.