Perfect route setting and a perfect start of the Lead World Cup 2018 in Villars with three double tops; Romain Desgranges, Sasha Lehmann and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting that the there were three male Japanese Top-5 in the qualification including boulder stars Tomoa Narasaki and Yushiyuki Ogata. In total, 13 Japanese made it to the semi tomorrow. Other then that, no big surprices in the result list.

Adam Ondra has onsighted his 19th 8c+, First Flight in Acephale. Later he also onsighted Ojas 8b+ in the most impressive style. "Slab! no chalk on the wall, clipping the draws" Gripped reports that Megos in 2016 said, "If anybody ever onsights that thing, that’s at least as impressive as flashing 9a." In total he has now onisghted 162 routes 8b+ and harder and it is actually in the onsight discipline, he is most superior. The runner up in the 8a database is Piots Schaab with 22 onsights 8b+ and 8c. Overall, Kleman Becan could be the runner up and a wild guess is that he has onsighted around 35 routes 8b+ and harder. (c) Petr Pavlicek, who reports that this and many more ascents will be put on Yoitube soon.

Lair Thibault has done La der des der extension 8c+ and the first repeat of Dani Andrada's Nilsbru, suggesting an upgrade to 9a, in Rodellar. The 26 year old has previously done three 9a FAs. "Very satisfied to do this route which cost me a lot of energy, especially mental. A hold has broken which makes the crux much harder. I did fall 15 times on this move. For a moment I thought of a big 8c + but after thinking, for me it may not be the same rating as Cosi or La der des der, So I propose 9a. I hope it will be done quickly to get more opinions."

Nina Williams, who did her second 8B last week, has done The Automater 8B in RMNP. In the 8a ranking game, the 28 year old is #3. (c) Michael Pang ”Sent this thing twice in a day. My back grazed the pad on the first go and it bugged me. Rested 10 minutes and did it again clean. 8 sessions total. Psyched it's done!!”

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he has done Nalle Hukkataival's Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands. (c) Brooke Raboutou. "Stoked to make the 5th ascent of Nalle's Finnish line. I saw photos of Nalle on it last year and was awestruck by the lines beauty and movement. The climbing is powerful yet technical as well. It is key to have optimal friction to hold onto these holds. I spent three days working it on a rope then another three to go for the send. Its def one of the harder lines in Rocklands next to Livin large. As for the rest of this trip I want to repeat a few more lines that my friends put up last year, Khoikhoi (8C), try Livin large a bit more (this one is hard for me), and search for some new shit. It snowed last night but it is gone now. Sending temps have arrived. For the rest of this year I have a couple hard projects that I'm psyched on in CO and want to do a return trip to Spain in Dec for First round first minute. Just hyped to send some hard blocs and routes this year.

Cathy Wagner did her first 8a in 1994 being 29 years old. Including one 8a and Tzatziki 8a+ in Valbrona the last week, the 52 year old has now done 668 routes 8a to 8b. Almost one third of them, she has done second go. Time to raise the bar to 8b+?

Karolina Ośka has done her first 8c, Nie dla psa kiełbasa in Pochylec. ”I kept tabs on this route for a long time. Its character fits me perfectly and Pochylec is a rock located close to the Krakow where I live. However, trips, injuries, and other goals, for a long time pushed this project aside up to this year. The crux of the route is at the very end - a crimpy boulder where conditions are very important. Low as for June temperatures made the holds bigger and all elements finally fit :)”

Over the past two years, Fred Nicole has been working closely with Five Ten to research, design and test shoes. New to Spring 2019 is the ALEON, a shoe that has been at the core of Fred’s work. Fred’s passion for design began at at art college with sculpture work. It then moved onto forming lasts out of clay and foam. What is the worst and best bit of the design process? The hard part is when people critic a shoe you are very proud of. On the other hand, the best part is when other people are psyched about what you have made. What is your favorite feature of the new ALEON shoe? There are a few; the last has a high arch, there is strong tension from heel to the toe is strong and the heel is also very good. Of all the problems that would feel easier in the new shoe which ones would you choose to reclimb? The following would be great to climb in the ALEON as they all have really small footholds and require a very precise shoe; Amandla, Rocklands 8B+, Slashface, Hueco 8B and Terremer, Hueco 8C.

Christof Rauch, has done his 119th boulder 8A and harder the last 12 months by doing Highlander 8C in Sustenpass. The FA was done by Martin Keller after 13 years of projecting it. "This was one of the craziest days I've ever had! At the beginning of the day I hurt my ankle pretty bad and couldn't jump down on my feet. Since I felt really strong and the drive home is quite long for me I decided to still give the Highlander a few tries. Seems like low expectations are the key for me on this powerendurance-monsters! After a huge fight I managed to nab the second ascent of this masterpiece by Martin Keller. About the grade, I am not really sure, probably 8B+/C?! At the end of the day I barely could walk back to the car and my foot was really swollen, later I went to the hospital and found out that I got lucky and my tendons are just strained quite bad."

Have you ever experienced an adventure? A true one, the kind that after years still makes your voice quiver when you talk about it? Take part in our competition for a chance to attend one of our Get Vertical Adventures. Get ready for four days of Alpine Climbing in San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) or four days of Alpine Mountaineering in the Obergurgl (Austria), with other athletes and local mountain guides. Taking part is easy: visit the website getvertical.salewa.com - register and play. The jury will choose ten winners for each destination. The prize includes a four-day Base Camp Experience, as well as all the necessary Salewa equipment to successfully climb or mountaineer. Our promise to you, you will return home with new friends, a unique experience and exciting stories. Contest closes 07/15/2018 A PURE MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE 2 - 5 AUGUST ÖTZTAL - Enjoy the stunning high alpine scenery, the rare fauna and the glacier wonderworld surrounded by the mighty peaks of the Ötztal Alps. 30 AUGUST - 2 SEPTEMBER SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA - San Martino di Castrozza offers spectacular climbs in the heart of Dolomites, an Unesco World Heritage site.