NEWS

International Climbing Survey
Are you a passionate rock climber? Do you prefer climbing in the gym? How can your climbing gym improve their service? Share your thoughts in the climbersโ€™ survey โ€“ as a reward, you will get a climbing guidebook of your choice in the Vertical-Life Climbing app. This international survey is intended to learn more about climbersโ€™ habits and their requirements for climbing gyms. The results will be published in special interest media and will be shared with climbing gyms and route setters. You can take the survey in English or in German

9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)
Chaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done." Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."

30 July 2018

Olympic prediction

The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just nine months. Here is a speculation of who got the best chances for getting the Olympic gold. 1. Tomoa Narasaski - Janja Garnbret 2. Adam Ondra - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Yushiyuki Ogata - Shauna Coxey 6. Alex Megos - Stasa Gejo

Rock Master Festival reports that Reinhold Messner got the Climbing Ambassador award, Adam Ondra the Wild Country Rock award and Romain Desgranges La Sportiva Competition award. It should be mentioned that Adam said he thought Angela Eiter better deserved the award for being the first female to do a 9b.

8b+ (c) flash by Loic Timmermans
loic Timmermans has flashed Face Bouc in Ailefrode giving it a personal grade of 8b+. "Amazing line and really interesting moves. Heel hook was key. Not pumpy enough for 8c?" (c) Chloe Caulier Last year he was #5 in the Lead WC in Chamonix and in 2018 his best is #13 and in the last event in Arco he was #17.

9a by Jonathan Siegrist again
Jonathan Siegrist has made a quick ascent in just three tries of Honour and Glory 9a in Echo Canyon. "Strength endurance crimping at its finest, in a fantastic setting! Perfectly my style, but I definitely hesitate when calling it 9a... time will tell. 3 tries." This was Jonathan's 27th 9a and possibly his fastest but it might be that he is peaking as he just in July also have done four 8c+'s. (c) Mike Hopkins On his Insta he gives more details like, "the hike is a solid 90 minutes and 2k elevation, the conditions are bizarre because not only does the wall seep like crazy (many holds on HnG were wet) but the mornings are pretty damn chilly and then suddenly at 1:30pm it gets debilitatingly hot."

In the last competition in Briancon, Alex Megos won ahead of Romain Desgranges but they were eliminated in the Arco semifinal. Among the female, it is the same old story with Janja Garnbret winning both the qualification and the semifinal. Complete results

David Mason has written an interesting article published on the Project Magazine in regards the Need for Conservation in Magic Woods and other popular climbing areas. Several ideas as well as closure for a sector have been suggested. Personally, I think the best solution is to write some rules and recommendations and have them signed up in the area. This will make it easier to act directly on the scene and ask to respect the signed rules and recommendations.