The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just nine months. Here is a speculation of who got the best chances for getting the Olympic gold. 1. Tomoa Narasaski - Janja Garnbret 2. Adam Ondra - Miho Nonaka 3. Jakob Schubert - Akiyo Noguchi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Yushiyuki Ogata - Shauna Coxey 6. Alex Megos - Stasa Gejo

Rock Master Festival reports that Reinhold Messner got the Climbing Ambassador award, Adam Ondra the Wild Country Rock award and Romain Desgranges La Sportiva Competition award. It should be mentioned that Adam said he thought Angela Eiter better deserved the award for being the first female to do a 9b.

loic Timmermans has flashed Face Bouc in Ailefrode giving it a personal grade of 8b+. "Amazing line and really interesting moves. Heel hook was key. Not pumpy enough for 8c?" (c) Chloe Caulier Last year he was #5 in the Lead WC in Chamonix and in 2018 his best is #13 and in the last event in Arco he was #17.

In the last competition in Briancon, Alex Megos won ahead of Romain Desgranges but they were eliminated in the Arco semifinal. Among the female, it is the same old story with Janja Garnbret winning both the qualification and the semifinal. Complete results

Jonathan Siegrist has made a quick ascent in just three tries of Honour and Glory 9a in Echo Canyon. "Strength endurance crimping at its finest, in a fantastic setting! Perfectly my style, but I definitely hesitate when calling it 9a... time will tell. 3 tries." This was Jonathan's 27th 9a and possibly his fastest but it might be that he is peaking as he just in July also have done four 8c+'s. (c) Mike Hopkins On his Insta he gives more details like, "the hike is a solid 90 minutes and 2k elevation, the conditions are bizarre because not only does the wall seep like crazy (many holds on HnG were wet) but the mornings are pretty damn chilly and then suddenly at 1:30pm it gets debilitatingly hot."

David Mason has written an interesting article published on the Project Magazine in regards the Need for Conservation in Magic Woods and other popular climbing areas. Several ideas as well as closure for a sector have been suggested. Personally, I think the best solution is to write some rules and recommendations and have them signed up in the area. This will make it easier to act directly on the scene and ask to respect the signed rules and recommendations.

Janja Garnbret got her 13th World Cup victory in Arco. In the last 15 Lead and Bouldering World Cups she has entered, her worst result is bronze and she has won ten. Among the male, Jakob Schubert got his 19th Lead victory. The route setting was not at it's best as the best male just came two thirds of the route and for the female, time was an issue. At the same time, it should be mentioned that the route setting was perfect in both the qually and the semi. 1. Jakob Schubert - Janja Garnbret 2. Stefano Ghisolfi - Jessica Pilz 3. Domen Skofic - Anak Verhoeven 4. Adam Ondra - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Shuta Tanaka - Helene Janicot Complete results On the picture (c) Eddie Fowke, Claire Buhrfeind (19), who with 8.90 is the fastest speed climber of the non-speed specialists. In 2018, she has also been #18 in bouldering. The other #4, Adam Ondra, did just come back from one month rock climbing trip in Canada and did use the comp as his first preparation for the World Championship in Innsbruck in September.

1. Jakob Schubert 335 - Janja Garnbret 380 2. Stefano Ghislofi 286 - Jessica Pilz 340 3. Alex Megos 230 - Anak Verhoeven 181 4. Domen Skofic 228 - Manon Hily 167 5. Romian Desgranges 201 - Ashima Shiraishi 159 Complete results

Double tops from Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert in Arco Lead qualifications. Max Rudigier had some interesting results ending dead last on his first route as he slipped from hold #1 but as he topped his second route, he made it to the semifinal Top-26. Complete results Semifinal on Saturday 12.00 and Finals starts 19.45 with the female. (c) Eddie Fowke capturing Hannah Schubert who was #4.