NEWS

Boulder "problem" topo for Moravian Karst
"Bouldering in Moravian Karst is a strange discipline..." By reading Adam Ondra's describing his backyard training area and checking the topos you understand that we are more talking about problems like in the gym rather then doing boulders in Font or Rocklands. Another striking thing is the extremely steep looking 5C's next to a 7C. If some of the low graded boulders are not severely sandbagged there are several future classical super juggy to be found. On the contrary, Lidomorna should be the hardest cave for bouldering in whole world (5x 8C and harder, 5x 8B and harder just on few square meters). Free Digital version or buy the printed version.

8B (A+) by Jule Wurm
Jule Wurm, world champion in 2014 who retired from the scene in 2015 after having won the European Championship, has done Fragile Steps 8B (A+) in Rocklands. How is your life and climbing nowadays? Life is good! Itโ€™s great to be in Rocklands! I spent a year in the US last year for my studies and did neuroscience research for my MD thesis. Did lots of climbing while being in Boston, broke my ankle in spring climbing outdoors and then broke my arm in a gym there in the beginning of October. How did you train to speed up the recovery? For my arm I had surgery right after the accident and they put two metal implants to fix the fractures. Recovery went slower then I had wished, but I tried to listen to my body and did whatever felt okay. I returned to Germany earlier this year to finish med school and did lots of training to get in shape for Rocklands. Lots of fingerboarding, board sessions on a 45 degree wall and TRX training. There still are some hand positions that donโ€™t feel comfortable for my arm, but all in all Iโ€™m very happy with where I am climbing wise! What kind of job are you looking for and how will you combine this with hard core climbing? I'm not really sure yet what I wanna do later. I either wanna do research again or work as a doctor, or maybe some kind of public health related job not really sure yet. And of course I hope to always find enough time for climbing no matter what job I will do.

Respect @Silvapark
3 August 2018

Respect @Silvapark

โ€œRecently, climbers destroyed fixtures in the bath room facilities at the parking spot Silvapark Galtรผr. The "Bergbahnen Galtรผr" provides parking spaces, waste buckets, toilets and washing rooms. They also put up a fountain for us! It took years of discussions with the authorities to get the permission to drive up there and, I think, weโ€™ve finally reached an amazing agreement. Right now, we are allowed to camp for FREE, but if there are more problems in future, this permit will be revoked. I was informed by "Bergbahnen Galtรผr" that many campers leave their tents during the day, making it impossible for cars to park. I am happy that they still give us the opportunity to solve our problems, so that bouldering at Silvapark remains a comfortable experience for everybody. So, please keep the place clean and think about other climbers when putting up your tent up there!โ€ Bernd Zangerl

Second 8A+ by Leah Dempsey
Leah Dempsey has done her second 8A+, Myology in XXXX. In the female 8a ranking game the Australien is #9. (c) Matt Norgrove

Climbing is for everyone โ€“ โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ
Climbers Paradise Tirol, together with Black Diamond and Tirol Werbung, started a charity campaign for Paraclimbing Austria โ€“ climbers with disabilities. The purpose of โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ is to support paraclimbers in training and competitions. The organizers send out a crash-pad-couch that travels through Tirolโ€™s climbing crags, meeting paraclimbers, families, pros and locals. For the climbing world championships, the couch will return to Innsbruck. It will be signed by the designated world champions and raffled among all donors. In the picture Hannes Mayer. Kick-off video Here you can support Paraclimbing Austria and โ€žKlettern kann jederโ€œ: Paraclimbing.net

9a FA by Ramonet again
Ramon Julian, the double lead world champion, has done his 14th 9a FA Escalfit in Collsuspina. "A project of many years very similar to Frankenjura, today I have done the first ascent! Now for more! (c) Riki Kalamontse In total the 36 year old and 159 cm tall has done 50 routes 9a and 9a+. Including also 20 World Cups win the last 18 years, he should be considered one of the best climbers in the world since 2000.

International Climbing Survey
Are you a passionate rock climber? Do you prefer climbing in the gym? How can your climbing gym improve their service? Share your thoughts in the climbersโ€™ survey โ€“ as a reward, you will get a climbing guidebook of your choice in the Vertical-Life Climbing app. This international survey is intended to learn more about climbersโ€™ habits and their requirements for climbing gyms. The results will be published in special interest media and will be shared with climbing gyms and route setters. You can take the survey in English or in German

9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)
Chaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done." Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."