In the Youth Nordic Championships in Finland, they divided the eight finalist in two groups and let them start on all four boulders at the same time. Including the fixed 5 min interval, the finals took just 40 min each for eight participants. If they would have used the normal final format, identical to WC semis, the finals would have taken 70 minutes each. Instead of finishing at 17.30 and some missing the flights back home, the competition was finished 14.30. In the competition the new format worked perfectly, Norway with Nicki Horak as Head coach and who took the format initiative, got more than 50 % of the medals. In the youngest girl category, Norway was 1 - 6.

Seb Bouin has done the FA of the 60 meter long La Côte d’usure in the Ramilore cave in Verdon. Previously he has done six routes 9a+ and 9b. " I bolted this route 9 years ago, when i was 16 years old. It's by far the most beautiful route I have ever bolted, and climbed." (c) Tilby Vattard

David Mason has done the first boulder ascent of Mortal Immortal 8B+ on Sean's Roof and it is a great community story showing every style has it's merit. "Floodgate into Sean's Roof, 23 moves in total with the top out. One of the best in the UK in my opinion, shame about the location but handy for pad carrying. 15 sessions over 2 months." Video - I do like to be beside the roadside. Originally Jerry Moffat did the FA in 1995 of the stand start Sean's Roof 8c including three bolts. Later Mark Leach skipped the rope and as there were no crash pads it was even called the hardest "solo" in the world. In 2010, Dan Varian and Ned Feehally then climbed the stand start above pads and thought 8A+ was appropriate. Last month, Dawid Skoczylas added a sitstart and did the FA of Mortal Immortal 8c+ which later also Alex Barrow repeated. "They both climbed it as a micro route but for me it was a boulder and I had even brushed up the end, making it possible to top out instead of dropping off at the jug. Grade wise it is definitely the toughest battle a problem has given me and took double the amount of sessions that I have put into anything else. For me it feels like 8A into 8A+ with the redpoint crux being right at the end. I think the movement mostly suits me but the number of moves certainly doesn't ;) Thanks to everyone who spotted, listened to my ramblings about it and cheered me on."

Cathy Wagner has added two more 8a+' and three 8a's to her impressive scorecard the last two weeks. In total the 53 year old has done 687 routes 8a and harder out of which one third second go. During the last 12 months she has done 70 routes 8a to 8b. She has previously said that one laziness but also explanation for her sending so much is that she skips warming up and go right on it. Cathy started climbing being 21 yers old back in 1985 and did her first 8a in 1994 and her first 8b when she was 35. You might wonder how hard she would be capable of if she started projecting a route for some months, instead of just doing multiple rather quick sends of routes up to 8b.

Gabriele Moroni, who won the Boulder WC in Japan in June, has done the second repeat of Hazel Grace in Gottardo suggesting a personal 8B+ grade. Nalle Hukkataival reported on Insta that he did the first repeat just four days ago. This is at least the fourth time Moroni suggested a down grade for an 8C including Highlander last month. In total the Italian has 21 boulders 8B+ and two 8C's recorded on his scorecard but it could at least have been six 8C's. Moroni has been an active IFSC competition climber since 2002, when he won the Youth World Championship. In 2004, being just 16 years old he was #3 in the European Championship in Bouldering. In 2009, he was #3 overall and then he did not make any finals until two times in 2018, out of which one he won, see picture.

Adam Ondra has done the FA of Interklemezzo 9a in Kanjon Tjesno. This was his 163 route 9a and harder out of which he did his first 12 years ago when he was 13. "Amazing wall in Bosnia close to Banja Luka. It was bolted by Peter Schwamberger and during two days at Chill&Drill Fest I made the first ascent. First pitch is 8b+, then hard boulderproblem into technical finish. More projects waiting." More info on his Insta, where he says he has bolted a new line. " It has been a while since I bolted any mega-line and I enjoyed the whole process so much. The curiosity whether the line will go, how the moves are going to be... Lot of uncertain factors but that what makes the bolting so exciting. "

Jongwon Chon and Jernej Kruder are two of the most entertaining profiles in the bouldering circuit. The "brothers" created a great show in the super final in the Adidas Rockstars and it actually looked like runner up, getting Euro 3 000, was at least as happy as his big dancing brother getting Euro 4 000 in prize money. Many of the invited actually say that this is the most fun competition of the all year and it is always 3 500 and full house. What we can learn from this and also other invitational bouldering events is that the format is not so important. Some sometimes complain about time restrictions and fairness etc but it seems the athletes do not bother as long as there are spectacular problems and intense interaction with the spectators and "brothers and sisters". "Yesterday was crazy night. I enjoyed a lot @adidasrockstars 2018 Final I think I did well last night isn’t it?! :) Only me did it all top final round also I did all top semi and qualification round !! and I’m sooo happy made super final with my brother @kruderjernej. We promise before competition see you in front of super final boulders and we made it!!"

Choong Katherine, #17 in the Lead WCH in Innsbruck in spite of almost only training on rock, has done Nordic Plumber 8c in Flatanger. In the 8a ranking game, she is #2. "Unfortunately, the day of the semis in Innsbruck, I woke up really sick. Stomach and head ache (I even vomit :-( ), my hole body was sore. But at the end, I was able to fight in the route and I'm pretty happy with my performance considering the circumstances. I ended 17th. Then we flew directly to Flatanger. This crag was on my list for a longtime and I have to admit that my mind was blown by the landscape and the impressive cave. To get used to the very steep roof, I first tried the first pitch of Nordic Flower (8b/+). I was so impressed by the super long line of Nordic Plumber that shares the same start as Nordic Flower that I could not resist to try it : almost 60 meters of dynamics moves, underclings, toe and heel hooks above the head on a perfect granit rock with a high red-point crux at the very very top on a slopey rail, where I fell on my second day. To exhausted to try again, I clipped the chains the day after in a good fight and hard mental game. Everthing I love ;)" (c) Esteban Lahoz