NEWS

Kruder and Sรถderlund win Psicoblock Bilbao
Jernej Kruder and Matilda Sรถderlund won the Psicoblock Master BBK in Bilbao in front of 6.500 spectators and 2.000 visits on the live streaming. The format was a duel challenge where Jernej was superior and a very fit Sasha Digulian couldn't beat Matilda on speed in the final. ยฉOscar Carrascosa 1-Jernej Kruder - Matilda Sรถderlund 2-Nils Favre - Shasa Digiulian 3-Mikel Linacisoro - Julija Kruder

Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted Spomin 8c in Paklenica. "Pitches are following: two 6c's or two 6a's, L3 8a+, L4 8c, L5 8b+, L6 8a+, L7 7a, L8 7b+, L9 4. The route is massive, steep and absolutely enjoyable to climb." Adam has previously onsighted 82 routes 8c to 9a and the runner up in this category could be Klemen Becan, Alex Megos and Piotr Schaab with around then.

Ghisolfi and Kim got their revenge in Kranj
Stefano Ghisolfi, #22 in WCH in Innsbruck, was the only one to top out the final in Kranj and increased the excitement in the duel in the World Cup with Jakob Schubert, who was runner up. #3 was Masahiro Higuchi. Interestingly, Stefano said that part of his preparation for the last two WCs will be to go to Spain working on a 9b. Among the female, Jain Kim climbed in surprisingly good control passing the highpoint of Janja Garnbret in both semi and final. Last year Jain was #2 overall and this year she has been #3 in the World Cups as well as in the WCH. Hannah Schubert, younger sister to Jakob, got her first WC podium. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Jakob Schubert 415 - Janja Garnbret 460 2. Stefano Ghisolfi 386 - Jessica Pilz 395 3. Domen Skofic 256 - Jain Kim 230 4. Alex Megos 230 - Manon Hily 198 5. Romain Desgranges 213 - Anak Verhoeven 181 6. Sasha Lehmann 154 - Mina Markovic 167 Complete results If Jessica wins the last two events, Janja secures the victory overall by being runner up in one event and #3 in the other. If Jakob wins one of the two events and becomes #4 in the other, he gets the overall title even if Stefano is #1 and #2. In the National Team Ranking, Austria is #1 with 1 247 points followed by Slovenia with 1 134 points and Japan 1 052 points.

Two 8c+' in Kochel by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has done two 8c+'s in Kochel, Paradis Artificial and the FA of Kiss, Kiss, Bang, Bang which was bolted and named by Toni Lamprect. "Nice direct line through the wall on tiny holds, no real rest points and very reachy moves. Very good rock and great conditions today. All the way straight up and slightly left at the last bolt. 8c+/9a." In the 8a ranking game, he is #3. Next up is to do Big Hammer 9a without the sika hold that change the crux grade from 7B+ to 8A+. More info in his blog.

Domen Skofic won both the qualification routes in Kranj and Japan continues their upwards trend. All their nine participants among the Top-24. Complete results

Highline 9a+ FA by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has made the FA of Highline 9a+ after two days of bolting and two days of projecting. In total Adam has now done 62 routes 9a+ to 9c. The runner up is Chris Sharma and Alex Megos with 18 respectively 17 routes 9a+ and harder. Bernardo Gimenez "One of my best first ascents ever. Lower part is slightly overhanging featuring big moves on pockets, the crux is in the middle where wall turns into vertical (pictured), and then neverending technical difficulties all the way to the anchor in vertical or slightly slabby wall.>/a>

Many got their revenge from a poor result in Innsbruck and beside Jakob Schubert it was seven new names that qualified into the final tonight at 18.00. Both Italy and Japan got three into the final and Japan had also seven in Top-15 which was yet a new record for them. Among the female, Jain Kim topped in her best style which made the Norweigian coach, Reino Horak, say it was one of the most impressive and perfectly executed climbs he had seen during the last ten years. Austria did get three female to the final. Slovenia, who impressed again with eight female semifinalist, did get Mina Markovic beside Janja Garnbret to the final. Complete results

DWS in Bilbao 28-29/9
28 September 2018

DWS in Bilbao 28-29/9

BBK Psicoblock starts today with some training sessions. On Saturday there will be quallies and at 20.00 finals. Jernej Kruder, Klemen Becan, Sasha Digulian and Matilda Sรถderlund are among the invited athletes. Instagram

Kranj Lead WC - Finals Sunday 18.00
The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup in 2018 takes place in Kranj this weekend. The semi will be live-streamed on Saturday 20.00 and the Finals on Sunday 18.00. Slovenia will participate with 16 athletes and Japan with 15 out of which nine male. As Alex Megos will not attend in Kranj, possibly due to the injury he got in Innsbruck and which made him just slowly climb the Speed route, it seems the overall title is a battle in between leading Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi. Schubert's worse result is #4 and Ghisolfi's #5 in 2018. Anyhow, Domen Skofic and Romain Desgranges do still have good chances but the results need to go in their favor. Complete results Among the female, Janja Garnbret has won three events and Jessica Pilz one and as their worst result is #2, in practice nobody can catch them as Anak Verhoeven has said on Insta that due to an elbow injury, her competition season is over. In the end of October, the World Cup finishes with two events in China.