NEWS

1 October 2018

Kranj Finals

Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ by Shawn Raboutou
Shawn Raboutou reports on Insta that he has done Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ in RMNP. (c) Daniel Woods, who made the FA in 2016. Shawn, who previously has done 8C's as well as a 9a+, is brother to the successful competition climber Brooke. Their parents Didier and Robin Erbesfield were both leading climbers during the 90'ies. "Well the process was pretty fun and what made the difference in the end was the conditions. It was my 4th day on it this year and I had tried it twice 2 years ago. Also I want to mention that I'm not sure about the 8C+ grade and think it could be 8C. I don't feel that I have enough experience though to make better judgement then the people who have done it before me."

Kim Marschner has published a high quality video including him doing Spray of Light 8C partly upside down.

2018 Rocklands 2.0 from Kim Marschner on Vimeo.

Kruder and Sรถderlund win Psicoblock Bilbao
Jernej Kruder and Matilda Sรถderlund won the Psicoblock Master BBK in Bilbao in front of 6.500 spectators and 2.000 visits on the live streaming. The format was a duel challenge where Jernej was superior and a very fit Sasha Digulian couldn't beat Matilda on speed in the final. ยฉOscar Carrascosa 1-Jernej Kruder - Matilda Sรถderlund 2-Nils Favre - Shasa Digiulian 3-Mikel Linacisoro - Julija Kruder

Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted Spomin 8c in Paklenica. "Pitches are following: two 6c's or two 6a's, L3 8a+, L4 8c, L5 8b+, L6 8a+, L7 7a, L8 7b+, L9 4. The route is massive, steep and absolutely enjoyable to climb." Adam has previously onsighted 82 routes 8c to 9a and the runner up in this category could be Klemen Becan, Alex Megos and Piotr Schaab with around then.

Ghisolfi and Kim got their revenge in Kranj
Stefano Ghisolfi, #22 in WCH in Innsbruck, was the only one to top out the final in Kranj and increased the excitement in the duel in the World Cup with Jakob Schubert, who was runner up. #3 was Masahiro Higuchi. Interestingly, Stefano said that part of his preparation for the last two WCs will be to go to Spain working on a 9b. Among the female, Jain Kim climbed in surprisingly good control passing the highpoint of Janja Garnbret in both semi and final. Last year Jain was #2 overall and this year she has been #3 in the World Cups as well as in the WCH. Hannah Schubert, younger sister to Jakob, got her first WC podium. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Jakob Schubert 415 - Janja Garnbret 460 2. Stefano Ghisolfi 386 - Jessica Pilz 395 3. Domen Skofic 256 - Jain Kim 230 4. Alex Megos 230 - Manon Hily 198 5. Romain Desgranges 213 - Anak Verhoeven 181 6. Sasha Lehmann 154 - Mina Markovic 167 Complete results If Jessica wins the last two events, Janja secures the victory overall by being runner up in one event and #3 in the other. If Jakob wins one of the two events and becomes #4 in the other, he gets the overall title even if Stefano is #1 and #2. In the National Team Ranking, Austria is #1 with 1 247 points followed by Slovenia with 1 134 points and Japan 1 052 points.

Two 8c+' in Kochel by Pirmin Bertle
Pirmin Bertle has done two 8c+'s in Kochel, Paradis Artificial and the FA of Kiss, Kiss, Bang, Bang which was bolted and named by Toni Lamprect. "Nice direct line through the wall on tiny holds, no real rest points and very reachy moves. Very good rock and great conditions today. All the way straight up and slightly left at the last bolt. 8c+/9a." In the 8a ranking game, he is #3. Next up is to do Big Hammer 9a without the sika hold that change the crux grade from 7B+ to 8A+. More info in his blog.

Domen Skofic won both the qualification routes in Kranj and Japan continues their upwards trend. All their nine participants among the Top-24. Complete results

Highline 9a+ FA by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has made the FA of Highline 9a+ after two days of bolting and two days of projecting. In total Adam has now done 62 routes 9a+ to 9c. The runner up is Chris Sharma and Alex Megos with 18 respectively 17 routes 9a+ and harder. Bernardo Gimenez "One of my best first ascents ever. Lower part is slightly overhanging featuring big moves on pockets, the crux is in the middle where wall turns into vertical (pictured), and then neverending technical difficulties all the way to the anchor in vertical or slightly slabby wall.>/a>