It did get exciting in the end as only one attempt separated the three who topped all four boulders. Vita Lukan needed 12 attempts, Mau Nakamura 13 and Sandra Lettner 14. On the other hand, this also means that the boulders were a bit to easy. Complete results Laura Lammer, #6 in the qually, leads but if the Lead results remain from the first round, she will be third after Sandra Lettner and Vita Lukan.

As there is no count back to previous round in the Olympics, Lead will be much more about Speed. In the male qualifation in Buenos Aires, we did see three tops separated by time and another seven further down the list. Among the female, nine out of the 21 had to be separated by time as they had the same hold score. In general, many climbers will take chances and climb faster including going for the "+" instead of taking every rest. It just might be that there is a crux midways, where several falls and then it is about to be fastest to that position if you are not one of the top climbers. In the same way, if the route setters have made it too easy, it is about sprinting to the top. The guys starting late will have the advantage listening to the crowd going crazy for the first top. The problem is that without digital split results like in slalom etc, it is very hard to know who is relatively fast etc. One solution is to measure split time 3-4 times to be used once the athletes score the hold.

Vadim Timonov is about to set new standards. Recently he did five 8B+' in just ten days and this week he started by doing The Understanding 8C as well as flashing The bizarre Ride 8A+ Counting just his send the last two weeks, he would have been #10 in the ranking game. Picture from his Insta. "I don't know was his first answer to a question explaining the recent peak so then we asked, Please guess! "Apparently a long break due to injury at the beginning of the year helped to relax and start training in a new way. At the beginning of the year I thought that this year I could forget about comps and projects on the rock. The injury was a rupture of acromion joint after a snow board fall in January which left him with two plates in the shoulder. Vadim begun to train again in May and the "new way" was just that he trained more. Normally he trains alone 4-6 times a week and outdoors on weekends. Interestingly is that he has no sponsor and actually buy even his La Sportiva. Great Scandinavia summer video for the Russian who made it to the semi in the WCH in Innsbruck before a protest took him out to #25.

Great male qualification in Buenos Aires although we did see three tops in Lead, meaning time decided the results. All the five ranked favorites made it through to the Top-6 final and the #6 in the prediction was seventh overall due to a foot slip. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Keita Dohi, qualification winner who was the only one topping all four boulders.

Although only a couple male Speed specialists competing in the Youth Olympic Games qualifying, half of the youngster did go sub 7.47. Sam Avezou 7.05 sticks out and in fact only Tomoa Narasaki was faster among the non-Speed specialist in the WCH in Innsbruck. In general, the youngsters werr considerably faster than most of the seniors competing in Combined in Innsbruck. As an example, Combined winner Jakob Schubert had 7.55 and #2 Adam Ondra did 9.32. Complete results It should be mentioned that also many of the girls did climb faster in comparison to the female in Innsbruck but not to that extent as for the male.

Although the commentator did a very good job trying to deliver Combined results live including conditions based on reached hold and ranking in Lead, digital results are vital. Further more, as have been said before, at least every fifth hold must be marked with a number in order to fully get all the excitement. As we saw three tops, they were ranked by who climbed faster. This also mean that it would be great with split times in order to actually understand who is in the lead.

Luis Rodríguez has sent his 4th 9a, Chilam-Salsa in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. With almost 80m of climbing the route starts on Chilam-Balam 1 8c+ and ends on Salsa Desnivel 8c, a route bolted by Bernabé Fernández and finished by Rafa Fanega. © Víctor Romera "Another king line. Connection between the first pitch of Chilam-balam (8c+) and Maldita envidia (8c). 80 metres of joy!" Luis has recorded 14 routes between 8c+ and 9a and in the 12 months global ranking game he is #8.

Laurent Vigouroux has done his eight 8c+, XXL in Calanques meaning he has reached a new All time High. One more 8c and he is #2 in the 40+ ranking game. "I have spent 12 winter seasons on it (probably more than 120 days and more than 450 tries) to complete it! I have fallen at the very last section around 18 times. In fact, there is a mantle which is not so hard (7b route) after the crux section but there is no rest and it asks a good resistance. I had to train differently and change my climbing style to be able to send it. For me, it was more a mental battle for not giving up and stay motivated, for staying strong enough all along these years. Happy to do it 7 days before my 40th birthday. In twelve years my "climbing" has evolved a lot. I have more experience, more technics and more mental resources. I'm also better understanding the climbing sport in its scientific components. I'm researcher in Faculty of Sport Sciences in Marseille and part of my work addresses to climbing sciences. Surprisingly, I'm also feeling in better physical shape than 12 years ago. I have more power, more resistance even if I expected the contrary! The key point for succeeding in this route was to re-began to climb indoor. In fact since I'm twenty, I climb 90% outdoor. But 3 years ago with the opening of the indoor gym "mur de Luminy" just next to my office, I re-began to climb indoor on more modern routes. That gave me first a push for physical training but it learned me to fight more when your are completely pumped. This way, I understood how to manage this final section in spite of muscle fatigue."