Radek Votocek, who during the last two months has completed his first three 9a’s, has sent Hantillio (9a) in Drachenwand. ”Epic fight! Had to dig really deep on the last few moves! Perfect power endurance test piece from Klem Loskot.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Hantillio 9a climbs through the big overhang of the Dragon Cave, with the crux being a powerful, dynamic move to the lip of the roof. It requires a precise catch of a small edge. I was lucky to stick the edge fairly early on. :-) Really looking forward to coming back to Drachenwand in the beautiful Salzkammergut lake region!

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with four 9a+’ under his belt, has done Narcissus (9a) in Erboristeria. In the VL ranking game, the Italian is #13. The picture is from Naturalmente (9a+).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
First of all, I have to thank Matteo Gambaro for the vision in bolting and releasing such a beast! I returned to the Erboristeria sector somewhat casually after a few years. I used to climb there a lot back in the day, when I was younger and climbed all the routes up to 8b. At the time, I felt too weak to tackle the most challenging lines in that physical style across the entire roof.

Over the years, my climbing style has evolved a lot. I’ve gained some weight (around 7–8 kilos), and now I feel much more confident on roofs and overhanging walls. Last but not least, I’ve really improved my kneebar skills! On the first day, I managed to do all the moves, but unfortunately, on the second day, I broke a big key hold in the first boulder section. It stayed intact in my hands, so I called Matteo, who decided to try and reinforce it to preserve the route in its original state.

After a couple of days working on the second part of the route, last Wednesday, on my fifth day, in terrible conditions at 8 p.m., and a bit tired after nine days of work in a row, I managed to send the route! In the final section, I chose to use the easier beta like Bouin and Ondra, which felt more logical to me, but I’d like to come back and try the original finish, as Matteo did!

Alizee Blass, sister to Theo, who sent a 9a at age 12, completed Guère d'usure (8c) in February. Her father comments on what she is projecting now and what is coming up next?

”She tried an 8c+ recently (a brutal power endurance testpiece at one of our local crags that has no female ascents yet to our knowledge) and managed to do all the moves on her first go, so hopefully something to work on. No projects for the summer as we will travel around the alps and try new crags - Alizee wants to do more onsighting so that would be a good opportunity (at the moment her best onsight outdoors is 7c+ and she knows she can do harder onsights).”

Anak Verhoeven has done Rainshadow (9a) in Malham. The Belgian ranks among the most successful female lead competition climbers. She reached the finals in 36 consecutive World Cup events and stood on the podium 19 times. However, she stepped away from competition in 2019 due to injuries. After making a full recovery in 2021, she chose to dedicate herself entirely to outdoor rock climbing. During her competitive career, she climbed around a dozen routes graded 8c+ to 9a+, and since retiring from comps, the now 28-year-old has added another dozen routes graded between 9a and 9b. (c) Neil Gresham

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Back in November of last year, I had spent one day at Malham Cove and had quickly touched some of the holds in the crux of Rainshadow. It looked like a great project to come back for, so that’s what I did this spring!

The weather was great with lovely, sunny weather, but that meant that the climbing days were short because the route only got in the shade in the late afternoon. I worked the route on and off for a few weeks, because I spent quite some time away from my project; visiting people and climbing in other places. There was a nasty undercut in the crux that hurt the joints of my left ring finger which meant that I could only try that move a few times every climbing day (the hardest move of the route for me). I had plenty of rest days and climbed with a lot of tape to make sure I wouldn’t get injured. After having found all my beta, I climbed the route on May 9th in my 5th redpoint attempt. What a line! I’m very grateful for this send.

Pierre Shankland has repeated Matteo Soulé’s Trois pattes dans la chouffe (9a) and Chouffe qui plâtre (9a) in Gorges Du Tarn, after having projected them during four trips. (c) Pierre Coutn

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
This summer was my first time in Les Gorges du Tarn, where I sent “3 pattes dans le plâtre” (8c), which is the first part of Trois pattes dans la chouffe (9a) and shares its finish with Chouffe qui plâtre (9a) —two beautiful new routes that Matteo Soulé had recently opened. They both climb an amazing roof in the “Amphithéâtre” sector and cross each other in a really cool way.

I came back in October and started working on Chouffe qui plâtre. It begins with a long, physical 8b+ traversing the entire roof, then hits a tricky crux (around 7B+ boulder) before linking into the end of the 8c. I had three more short trips in February, April, and May. And on Wednesday this week, after 17 sessions and countless tries, I finally sent it!

With that ticked off, I decided to try “3 pattes dans la Chouffe” the next day. Since I already knew the first part (the 8c) perfectly and all the holds in the crux (which is the same as the other 9a, but reversed), I managed to send it quickly. To me, it felt a little easier than Chouffe qui plâtre. My friend Antoine Maire, who also climbed it, and I used a slightly different beta than Matteo for the crux. That’s why I suggested 9a for Chouffe qui plâtre and maybe 8c+/9a or solid 8c+ for 3 pattes dans la Chouffe. Anyway, I’m really psyched about the trip. Huge shoutout to Matteo for the first ascents and the vision.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was a kid with my dad, who did a lot of mountaineering. During my youth, I mostly focused on competitions, but over time I grew more into outdoor climbing. These days, I’m still training for some comps but I also climb a lot in Fontainebleau and head south of France whenever I can.

Sorato Anraku, who had already won the first two Boulder World Cups of the season along with one in Lead, claimed another victory in Salt Lake City. ”I’m so happy to win in Salt Lake City. To get three gold medals this year is amazing. I want to win a fourth medal, but I don’t want to think about it. I just want to think about one competition at a time and try to win in Prague.”

Five Japanese climbers made it into the Top 8 final. Tomoa Narasaki being their lowest-ranked placed tenth. In the first two World Cups of 2025, Japan had three athletes finish in the Top 4 and four in the Top 5, respectively. It’s also notable that in 2024, before the new 2025 regulations took effect, Japan was allowed to enter nine male competitors in Salt Lake City.

Pepa Šindel, who sent his first 9a+ in 2022, has completed Modified (9a+) in Frankenjura. ”7th go after Classified. I found my own beta for the last crux with a big move to a crimp right under the anchor. It would be a big shame to not push for this one after sending Classified.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Modified is the harder right-hand variant of Classified (9a) which I sent two weeks ago. It shares the same starting boulder as Hänsel ohne Gretel (8b), then traverses left to join Classified at the third quickdraw. Originally, I thought the grade would be pretty similar, since you're just adding a bit of an endurance intro. But after a few failed attempts, I realized the final section felt much spicier due to the added pump, and I had definitely underestimated the difficulty. It took me one more trip and seven more attempts to get it done. Super happy with this one!

Jernej Kruder has done the first repeat of Pete Whittaker’s 100 meters step trad route Crown Royale (9a) in Jøssingfjord. The 34-year-old Slovenian is among the world’s top all-around climbers, having won the Boulder World Cup in 2018 and the European Championship in 2020. On rock, he has climbed routes up to 9a+, boulders up to 8C, tackled deep water soloing up to 9a+ and completed several challenging multi-pitch routes. Interestingly, his preparation for competitions typically involved climbing outdoors rather than training indoors. (c) Bernardo Gimenez

”When everything goes perfect! Last day before the rain and my flight back home. It was my 3rd day without rest, so the expectations were low. Barley crawled over the first crux, then somehow found a perfect flow. My body was getting extremely tired in 60 meters of overhang, but the wind was cooling me down. I used 16 pieces in 100 meters and it still felt super safe- just a bit of run outs at the top. Hats off to Pete for the vision and effort to make it possible to free!! Great place, hope to return again for more.”

Mao Nakamura, who debuted on the World Cup circuit in 2016, claimed her first-ever podium with a victory at the Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City. Despite this being her first win, she currently leads the overall standings, having placed fourth in the first two events of the 2025 season. Last year, the 25-year-old finished third overall. ”I can’t believe it. I’ve had many fourth places, and I can’t believe I have a medal. So many people were cheering for me, so I just tried to podium for them. I was just so excited. Thank you everyone.”

Notably, the three athletes behind her all ended with identical scores, with Zelia Avezou taking silver due to winning the semifinals.

Domen Škofic, who the last ten years has completed six 9a+’, has sent Move (9b) in Flatanger. The Slovenian athlete won the overall World Cup in 2016 and retired from IFSC competitions after the 2022 season.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It’s still hard to put this in to words because the send try I had yesterday felt unreal. Perfect conditions, perfect flow, just everything feel in the right place.

After all the “easier” classics last September I finally decided to try and stick to something harder in the cave. Thanks to sharing energy and beta with Jorge [Diaz-Rullo] I progressed faster than expected and in not more than two weeks after I actually had a decent chance of doing it but my time ran out and I had to go… In a route like this with such a hard boulder on the end you never really know how close you actually are… but that’s why I decided to return and see what happens.

I came by car this time all the way from Slovenia with my girlfriend and I took it easy at the start. It took me few sessions to refresh my memory and get back the proper flow but quite soon after that I started doing good tries and almost every try was a bit better.

What is next?
I can stay until 31st of May, I will take it a bit more chill now but I’m psyched to find myself an even harder project here and return again. … but not just for the projects, I like the life here a lot!