Carlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin "The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "

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Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura, which he marked as chipped. "Lot of fixed holds, went down quick, M. Bock suggested 9a, I can't really tell, haven't tried much in that grade." During the last month, the 19 year old has done six routes 8C and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking game.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his third 9a+ through the FA of Circo Ibérico in Cuenca. "Route on the lower range of 9a+, harder than the others 9a's in Cuenca anyway. Few climbers like Pablo Barbero tried it before and once I tried it I was super psyched to keep trying it". In the ranking game, the 19 year old spanish is #5. ©Javipec

Thomas O'Halloran has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Schweinebaumeln 9a in Blue Mountains. The picture is from this summer walking up to Céüse and here is a nice video of him doing Mister Hyde 8c+ up there. "Over the past few years I have spent a lot of days on it, but always in the middle of summer in bad conditions. I’d just use it as a training route while everything else was out of season. It was a good training route to keep fit. I did it on the 4th day of attempts this season. It’s very satisfying to do. I’m not feeling especially fit or strong at the moment and it didn’t feel like it took a lot out of me. So it’s great to know I have quite a bit more room to improve!"

Oriane Bertone has done the Fontainebleau traverse Atomic Playboy 8A+. "Fantastic trav with a boulder grade in the 7C+ section." The 13 year old has done more than 20 Boulders 8A and harder including Golden Shadow 8B (+) when she was 12 years old.

Three years ago we asked some speed experts how fast they thought the non-speed specialist could do it. As they thought it would take a year of physical training and getting the sequence optimized to go below eight seconds, we now know they were wrong. One reason for them getting dead wrong might be that Sean McColl had been struggling for years without doing any sub eight seconds run. With Yushiyuki Ogata doing 6.71 and also Tomoa Narasaki getting sub seconds without any proper physical training at the same time many struggle getting below ten seconds, it is clear that climbers have different talent. Talking to some coaches and athletes this has also been confirmed. The Norwegian coach Reino Horak says that he thinks standing long jump and sprinting 20 meters are good indications of who can be the fastest. Possibly this means that if you can jump 2.80 cm, without any training, you can go below seven seconds?

Nicolas Collin was #10 and #12 in the last two Lead events in China. Including also relatively good results in Speed at the same time as only a dozen Combined athletes competed in China, the Belgian was #6 overall. Most probably this will mean a new life for the 20-year-old and full nurse student as he will get an Olympic candidate salary from the state. How can you explain your very good results in China? It was easier to go to the semi because the low number of participants. I am better in onsight compared to flash. I was also well prepared. What is your goal now for 2019? it is special, haha. I still do not know what to think about that? I am super happy of this #6 place because the season was really long for me. It was also my first year in the university so it was hard to manage both competition and study. My shape varied a lot so the system of calculation just the two bet results was good for me. My goals for next year is to reach a final in Boulder and Lead and also to go under 7 seconds in Speed. I will finish my exam in May so I will go to Innsbruck for training in June.

Philipp Gaßner, who did his first 8c+ being 14 years old, has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura. "Tried it two days last year and one day this year; striking line with one hard bouldery section near the top." The 18 year old is #6 in the 8a Combined ranking game having done also ten 8B boulders in 2018.

Placing gear on lead is what counts in trad climbing in order to make a valid ascent even on redpoint. This means sometimes a route is much harder and dangerous as you do not reach a placement from a good position. If you had reached just 10 cm further possibly you could have gotten a bomber solid nut placement but instead the only solution might be to either do a dead serious run-out or place the nut from bad holds, creating another crux. In sport climbing, such situations are rare but you might end up in the same out of reach to place the quick draw on an onsight. The solution is then to carry a stiff quick draw with open gate and voila, problem fixed. As trad ethics is pretty conservative, most probably the trad community would not give credit placing gear with a stick-clip or even using one of these 45 cm stiff dog bones quickdraws etc. But what if you just squeeze in the cables in the rubber normally stabilizing the lower carabiner. By doing so you could gain some 10- 20 cm, resulting in a safer and easier trad experience even if the objective difficulty remains the same. Safety: Please not that once the nut has been placed pull the quickdraw and clip it into the wire.