NEWS

Classified 9a by David Firnenburg
David Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a. "Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec
Osp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened. "Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe." More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.

Johnny Dawes (54) back to 8b+
British legend Johnny Dawes is back on the game after a long process of efforts. A year ago he did Abuela Carmen 8a in La Pedriza, Spain. That day he tried on a top rope Inuรฏt 8b+ just for fun and fixed it as a goal for the next season. The last week he tried first to check the moves and sent it on his second go. More info on his Insta. ยฉTalo Martin Known as the developer of the dynamic climbing, in 1985 he bolted Meltdown 9a slab. In 1986 he fell in the last bolt due to a hold broke in the last hard moves (video of 1986 trying the route with Jerry Moffat). Meltdown was FA'd by James McHaffie in 2012 and recently repeated by Ignacio Mulero in 2018.

Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It 8c+
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted the iconic Just Do it 8c+ at Smith Rocks. It was bolted in 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the FA in 1992. The 40m line with 18 bolts starts almost vertical with technical climbing on whitish rock. The second half on near to purple rock is slightly overhanging with the crux at the top where many have taken 15 meters falls. Adam has previously onsighted three 9a's, 19 8c+' and 61 8c's. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen 8c and harder.

Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"
The bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty. Here you can support the cause with your signature. Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.

Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins." Adam Ondra was 13 years, nine months and six days when he did his first 9a. Illya was five days younger, setting a new world record. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!

Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz
Jessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptiฤja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3. Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.

Assassin 9a #106 by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has done Drew Ruana's Assassin 9a in Smith Rocks which he did second go. "2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between." (c) Martin Kanurek In total total, the 25 year old has now recorded 172 routes 9a to 9c. Interesting insights on his Insta from Smith Rocks. "I love visiting new climbing places and I have been looking forward to this place so much! It is basically birthplace of America's sport climbing." He also met and give credits to Alan Watts, the pioneer of sport climbing in USA who in the early days got a lot of criticism." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

Viaje astral 9a FA by Jonathan Guadalcรกzar
Jonathan Guadalcazar has done his third 9a during the last 12 months, Viaje astral in Tarbena. Until 2016, the 25 year old had done just one 8c+ but during the last two years he has done five. "40m route very intense. First 20m 8c+ on small crimps without rests and after a water-polished laybacking crack ending on very small crimps."

The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35. This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo. It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.