NEWS

Talk to climbers with bad access behavior
Here is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste. As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.

12 November 2018

Great progress for Asia

Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan. Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings. National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019 1. Japan 3 618 2. Slovenia 2 817 3. France 2 263 4. Austria 1 805 5. South Korea 1 313 Complete results

Classified 9a by David Firnenburg
David Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a. "Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18. Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.

Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec
Osp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened. "Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe." More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.

Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It 8c+
Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted the iconic Just Do it 8c+ at Smith Rocks. It was bolted in 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the FA in 1992. The 40m line with 18 bolts starts almost vertical with technical climbing on whitish rock. The second half on near to purple rock is slightly overhanging with the crux at the top where many have taken 15 meters falls. Adam has previously onsighted three 9a's, 19 8c+' and 61 8c's. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen 8c and harder.

Johnny Dawes (54) back to 8b+
British legend Johnny Dawes is back on the game after a long process of efforts. A year ago he did Abuela Carmen 8a in La Pedriza, Spain. That day he tried on a top rope Inuรฏt 8b+ just for fun and fixed it as a goal for the next season. The last week he tried first to check the moves and sent it on his second go. More info on his Insta. ยฉTalo Martin Known as the developer of the dynamic climbing, in 1985 he bolted Meltdown 9a slab. In 1986 he fell in the last bolt due to a hold broke in the last hard moves (video of 1986 trying the route with Jerry Moffat). Meltdown was FA'd by James McHaffie in 2012 and recently repeated by Ignacio Mulero in 2018.

Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"
The bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty. Here you can support the cause with your signature. Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.

Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins." Adam Ondra was 13 years, nine months and six days when he did his first 9a. Illya was five days younger, setting a new world record. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!

Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz
Jessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptiฤja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3. Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.