Based on 2 100+ unique votes, Female Sport Climber of 2018? 35 % Janja Garnbret 32 % Margo Hayes 11 % Jessica Pilz 07 % Isabelle Faus 03 % Alex Puccio 12 % Other

Lucas Marques has done Estado Critico in Siurana famous for being onsighted by Alex Megos as the first 9a in the world. Later 8c+ have been suggested or indicated by some. In total, the superb route has 35 ascents making it the most popular 9a in the world. (c) 100 limite filmes "Such a great route! Long, bit bouldery and pumpy to the end. Hard shoulder moves in the end. So fanatic! About the grade it is harder than all the 8c+ I ever try and did, also, who am I to downgrade the first 9a onsight of the world. Lets celebrate and have fun! Thank you everybody who support me along this journey... Brasilll!!!Vamooo!!! It took some months on 'real tries' last season and around 15 tries this season. I trained with the Brazilian coach Gustavo Fontes for a month that gave me the last power I needed. After all I was prepared and in a perfect day it came by it self. Was a hard mental battle for me..."

Björn Alber, aka Dr 8a, reports that the titanium bolts from 2005 on his route Beauty and the Beast have been cut down due to pressure from thai marine park rangers. "The pressure originates from the viral popularity this route got on youtube. This poses two treats. Firstly; people startled to jump out on the stalactite on toprope (you were supposed to lean out) posing a risk of stalactite breaking, secondly; due to the popularity and so many new “gym rats” without the necessary skills , the accidents on the route increased dramatically. This year we also see more tourists climbing up to access ladders on the crags- most of them unfit to do so and some of them even drunk. The Thai authorities have no real interest in climbing and more accidents (even involving non climbers) will likely result in a total close down of all Railey climbing. Please help to keep us climbing here by climbing safe!"

Iker Pou reports on Instagram his FA of Artaburu in Margalef. No grade was mentioned but the 41 year old, who previously has done four 9a+', says it is his hardest route ever. In 2000, Iker did the second repeat of Action Directe 9a. More info coming up. ©Jordi Canyi "ARTABURU ": WITHOUT DOUBT, THE HARDEST ROUTE I HAVE EVER DONE! I had a dream and finally it has come true: I'm very happy and I still can not believe what could have gotten me up there. I had to be very Artaburu (Cabezón or brute in Euskera) to get it enchained. It has been the greatest physical and mental struggle I have ever faced. I have finally been able to climb the most futuristic route I have ever bolted. Undoubtedly, it is the most difficult thing I have ever managed to do, infinitely harder than everything done so far."

Romain Desgranges did his first Lead World Cup in 2003 and after 15 years contious progress he won overall in 2017 being like ten years older then the rest of the competitors. The same year, the 35 year old won the European Championship. As a kid he wanted to be a soccer player which his parents did not like so much so they made him try different sports. Being a late bloomer, Romain struggled a lot but with a great team and several exploring mainly bouldering trips around the world, he kept his motivation high and trained mentally. It is really interesting to get inside Romain's head and learn how he kept fighting reading and watching all illustrations. In 2016, he came in contact with illustrator Flore Beaudulin and it just might be that the whole process om making a comics autobiography worked out as the perfect mental training that made him the best competition climber in the world 2017, being 35 years old. Buy it for Euro 24 "A slip of the foot, the fall, months and years of efforts going up in smoke. In 2015, Romain Desgranges comes within a hair's breadth of winning the Climbing World Cup. He chooses to overcome his disappointment into the Californian desert of Joshua Tree. Only surrounded by "Big boulders", he confronts his fears by climbing solo these granite blocks, some of which reach heights up to 10 meters and more. Falling is forbidden; the fear of failure getting confused with the fear of dying. By exposing one to the other, Romain slowly finds his own path again. This maiden trip is at the core of the autobiographical work he started, soon joined by Flore Beaudelin, a graphic designer. At first, there was a movie, then this graphic novel, to illustrate a lifetime journey through the passion of climbing. Eight chapters will follow Romain Desgranges from his childhood dreams to the World Cup podium. "So High" is the name given by the climbers to the highest of the boulders."

Based on 2 500+ unique votes, Climber of 2018? 47 % Adam Ondra 13 % Alex Megos 13 % Jakob Schubert 10 % Stefano Ghisolfi 07 % Jernej Kruder 04 % Daniel Woods 06 % Other

Molly Thompson-Smith has done Rollito Sharma extension 8c in Santa Linya and she is #6 in the ranking game. "It took 3 goes in 2 sessions to do Rollito, then I worked the extension after I did it. Then 2 goes from the ground the next session." In 2017 Molly was #7 in the Lead World Cup. Last December she ruptured three pulleys in a ring finger. Fully recovered she is going for the Olympics and this winter her focus are Bouldering and Speed, preparing for the selections and hopefully some WCs.

Paul Robinson has done his 6th 8C FA, Karoshi in Hueco Tanks. "What a perfect way to end the trip! Found this line with Keith in feb 2018. Could not wait to come back this winter and get back on it. Sharp but such a perfect hard crimper line! The area known as the 5 bimbos on east mountain has been closed for approximately 20 years due to erosion. Hueco tanks has since put in anti erosion measures in the area and has reopened the boulder to climbing in 2017. Now people can enjoy about 15 boulders problems in the area ranging from in the 6th grade to ~8C. In total, Paul has done 918 boulders 8A and harder out of which 19 8C's. Is there anybody who could challenge Paul becoming the first one breaking 1 000? (c) Keith Allen - Westmountainmedia

Many of the best climbers think that the best sending conditions are found during 5 degrees. If it is a sunny wall, you can climb also during freezing conditions. Here are some tips how to keep warm. It is all about transporting your 37 degrees blood out to your finger tips. 1. Warm up indoors properly including also max power 2. Tight long arm sleeves, wrist warmers and mitts 3. Cut of the finger tips of your gloves 4. Chemical hand warmers in the chalk bag 5. Sweater with belly pockets (cut them to warm hand on your stomach) 6. Big shoes so you can wear a socket 7. Put your shoes and gloves inside your jacket