NEWS

MP preparation for Boulder WC by Kruder
Jernej Kruder, Boulder World Cup winner 2018, continues his success recipe by preparing for the competition season by going for a 2.5 week multi-pitch trip. Who wants to skip the indoor drill and become his partner doing some serious rock climbing? The first Boulder WC takes place in Switzerland 5-6/4.

We give more credit to the ones doing many ascents in different disciplines as well as FAs. Please comment to update the list. Junior and 40+ lists are coming up. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Jakob Schubert AUT 3. Janja Garnbret SLO 4. Jessica Pilz AUT 5. Alex Megos GER 6. Jernej Kruder SLO 7. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 8. Miho Nonaka JPN 9. Daniel Woods USA 10. Alex Puccio USA 11. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 12. Isabelle Faus USA 13. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 14. Barbara Zangerl CHE 15. Jan Hojer GER 16. Mikaela Kirsch USA 17. David Firnenburg GER 18. Ashima Shiraishi USA 19. Piotr Schaab POL 20. Jakub Koneฤnรฝ 21. Martin Stranik 22. Giuliano Cameroni 23. Christof Rauch 24. Oriane Bertone 25. Jonathan Siegrist 26. Katherine Choong CHE 27. Karoline Sinnhuber 28. Margo Hayes 29. Paul Robinson 30. Charles Alber, Nomura Shinichiro, James Webb, Shawn Raboutou, David Graham, Angy Eiter, Nalle Hukkataival, Sebastian Bouin, Keenan Takahashi, Stasa Gejo, Stefano Carnati, Jain Kim, Domen Skofic, Moritz Welt, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Romain Desgranges, Rei Sugimoto, Aleksei Rubtsov, Sol Sa, Kai Harada, Moritz Perwitzschky, William Bosi, Dani Andrada, Chris Sharma, Klemen Becan, Mei Kotake, Petra Klingler, Allizee Dufraisse, Jongwon Chon, Gregor Vezonik, Gabri Moroni, Melissa le Neve, Paige Claasen, Edu Marin, Mathieu Bouyoud, Vadim Timonov, Philipp GaรŸner, Maria Davies Sandbu, Molly Thompson Smith, Loic Zehani

Eight 8A's by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber, #8 in the last Boulder WC 2018, has had a very productive trip doing eight 8A's out of which La persistencia de la memoria (8A+ in the topo) and Pamplemousse 8A sticks out. "Might be the most beautiful boulder in Ticino." (c) Michael Eisenmann - Entwash. "I was in Ticino from 26th December till 5th January. Due to perfect weather we had only 3 rest days. I spent a lot of time in the gym the last couple of weeks to get in shape for the trip, which worked out quite well. I havn't really done much boulders in Ticino yet, so I decided to literally "run through" the 8As and go for harder stuff next time. I might return in February for a week or so, if the weather is fine. 2019... I'm super psyched at the moment for outdoor climbing! Definitely have to go to Maltatal again to finish "Air" 8B. Rocklands in summer are also tempting to finish "Ray of Light" and "L'Arche", both 8B. Or maybe Hueco through December. So many wishes and possibilities, so little money to spend! Bummer. Regarding competitions: we will see how it goes. There are now only 5 starting spots (instead of 6) for the world cups and we are around 10 girls who want to compete. And the young guns are pretty strong :)" Full blogspot report with more superb pictures.

6 January 2019

70 000 members

8a started publishing local Gรถteborg climbing news in 1999. In 2000, we introduced the scorecard and yesterday we passed 70 000 members who have recorded over 5 million ascents. By searching the data base, those quality rated ascent will help you to find the best crags and climb in the world.

Two 8B's by Clay Gordon (17)
Clay Gordon reports on Insta that he has sent in different days but in one session, two 8B's in Bishop, Spectre and Buttermilker. He also did The Mystery 8A+ and Evilution Direct 8A. Pic from Spectre, ยฉ Michael Pang Clay was 4th at the Youth World Championships in 2016 and four times he has been the national champion in USA.

Goofy 8c by Alex Totkova (13)
Alex Totkova, who is #9 in the 8a ranking game, has done her first 8c, Goofy in Leonidio. "Cool route is Goofy. It starts with less difficult movements. You can squeeze your knees twice. Passage is the transfer from one route to the other. Then go on 8a+." Alex compared her previous achievement, a route called "4x4" at the home crag Vratsa 8b+, as "The cruxes at Groofy were riskier. Now I would try something harder"."

Estato Critico 9a (8c+) by Marcello Bombardi
Marcello Bombardi, winner of the Chamonix Lead WC in 2017, has done Estato Critico 9a (8c+) and L'odi Social 8c+ in Siurana. (c) Elisa Negro "They took me two days each, five attempts for Estado Critico and seven for L'odi social. In 2019 I will focus on the competition and especially on the combined, trying to get a pass for Tokyo 2020. It would be a dream to qualify for the Olympics."

Vote for Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret is the Sport Climbing's candidate for the World Games Athlete of the year. You can vote once a day. (c) Eddie Fowke