In the ranking game, you get almost three grades bonus for an onsight in comparison to a redpoint. The best onsight climber in the world is Adam Ondra and for him the three steps formula works almost perfectly, as it does also for many climbers. However, in general, the onsight level has not have the same progress as the repoints the last year. A good example of this is that Jakub Kovacik is #3 in the onsight game with 10 8a's, 4 8a+' and two 8b's. 8a has for many years said that everyone focusing on progress and especially juniors should take every opportunity to onsight, as Ondra did as a teenager. A good example of this is Jan Vopat (15) who is #6 in the onsight ranking game but only #37 overall. Among the female it is more or less the same story and her Martina Harnisch sticks out being a superior #1 in the onsight ranking game at the same time she is #8 overall.

1. Kyra Condie - Zach Galla 2. Brooke Raboutou - Nathaniel Coleman 3. Natalia Grossman - Sean Bailay 4. Ashima Shiraishi - Collin Duffy 5. Margo Hayes - Drew Ruana Kyra won actually all but Speed where she was #3 and should be put on the short list for one of the contenders for qualifying to Tokyo. Both Margo and Ashima suffer most from being like three second slower than best in Speed. Among the male, Zach's victory must be considered as big surprise as he was #9 and #16 in the Youth World's last year. The 18 year did below 6.84 in three rounds which is at the highest standard for the non-Speed specialists. Complete results

The best indicator to spot which routes and boulders are too soft for it's grade is to use statistics, i.e. the number of repeats and personal records. Here is a list of the most repated and almost all are actually subject of being down graded but the classical Action Directe which was put up as a 8c+/9a. It should be mentioned that the routes might be 9a now or in the future because of broken holds. 37 Era Vella 36 Estado Critico 26 Underground 25 Action Directe 20 La Fabela pa la Enmienda confirmed 19 Escltamasters 19 A Muerte 19 Seleccio Natural 17 La Cabane au Canada In practice, you can search the 8a data base for any hard core grade and you will find that almost all the most repeated are the ones also being subject for a down grade. Climbers are, logically, like water finding the easiest way to set a personal best :)

Shawn Raboutou, Giuliano Cameroni, Jimmy Webb, Keenan Takahashi, Kevin Takashi Smith and Daniel Woods has started a youtube channel called Mellow. "A climbing media collection for climbers by climbers. A media platform designed to get you hyped to go out and rage them rocks. Subscribe to our youtube channel and follow our journey."

Taylor McNeill has done the second ascent of James Webb's Southern drawl in Chattanooga suggesting an upgrade to 8C. "15 days over two years. Hardest to date by a longshot. 100% my style, couldn't have designed a better boulder for my body. Ultimate satisfaction in finishing the one the last day of my trip. Drove 8 hours immediately after sending to catch my flight out. A true battle to make the 2nd ascent of this one. Jimmy is on one, I'm sure consensus will land at v15 when/if this gets repeated.A huge step up in my climbing, ON TO THE NEXT!! It should be noted that previously, several of James' FAs have been subject of being upgraded. Three days ago, Daniel Woods reported on Insta that he has done Squoze in Red Rocks. "@jwebxl proposed 8B+(v14) but hes too damn strong in this style... i dont suck at compression nor is it my forte, but felt it took a shit on all the v14 compression lines I have done. will leave it at 14/15 and others can confirm."

Charles Albert has done seven 8C to 9A boulder problems but what is unique is his barefoot style. If he could go beyond his ethics, using one shoe, there are probably many more hard core boulders to be done, which could be unrepeated for several years. It would take any climber several months to learn and develop their toe strength, bouldering shoe less, but for Charles it is just to lace up. In regards his No Kpote Only FA in Fontainebleu, there are some ethics question to be answered before we could call it the hardest graded boulder in the world. The grade 9A suggest that when it comes to difficulty it can only be compared to Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams. The hassle is that it seem more like a constructed problem and not a natural boulder as the start seem contrived. Instead of starting in the first logical sit start position, three traverse moves have been added to the left. This is quite often done in bouldering in order to increase the difficulty. Creating harder challenges are just great but for me, they should be called problems instead of boulders. Further more, the problem finishes with some chipped holds. In route climbing, sit starts can be said to be the same constructed problems opting for a high grade. The dilemma is that we should not have the hardest and glorified routes and boulders as contrived chipped problems, as this could just popularize such ethics. So for me, No Kpote Only is not the hardest graded boulder in the world although it is the hardest graded problem. On the other hand, Charles is possibly the first contender to set up the world's first 9A+ if he started to use one shoe!

Oriane Bertone has done Bio-Affinity 8B in Rocklands which is an extended version to War of Attrition 8A+, which she did two days ago. Both boulders were put up as 8B's by David Graham in 2014. The 13 year old is now the new ranking game #1. The video is just mind blowing.

Gudmund Grønhaug, project leader at Østfold hospital trust and Flatanger pioneer, has recently published a study showing no associations of performance, chronic injuries and BMI. The study, which includes a web-based questionnaire with 667 climber, is one of the largest epidemiological studies on climbers so far and the only to assess chronic injuries alone. Although the conclusion seems counter intuitive, the study gives a good explanation on the lack of relationship between performance, chronic injuries and BMI. For a short-term goal, losing weight might seem to be a good idea to increase the strength to weight ratio. Still, loosing weight means to put a significant stress on the body by under-eating. In this period of undernourishment, the possibility for injuries and sickness or disease raises at the same time as the ability to train as hard as possible drops. In periods of malnutrition restitution is prolonged as well. And that’s for the short-term goals! In the longer term it seems to be a far better idea to have a few kilos extra, live a happy life and train injury free rather than being skinny! The reason is simple; the body adapts to whatever stress we put to it and losing weight also means training with a lower resistance at each repetition. The full paper is to be found here.

Nika Potapova has done her second 8c, La Fabelita in Santa Linya. The pic by Henning Wang is three years old when she first tried it being 12 years old. "She worked on the route just for few days and fell several times on the last hard move on her last day. The hanger of the last bolt had fell of so she took some very long falls and hit the wall some times due to a bad belayer. Great will power to try hard." Some months later she did her her first 8c. When she was 13 years old, Nika hung on the Zlagboard for some 2 min and 40 seconds, which is an un-official female world record.

Grimper reports that Charles Albert has made the FA of No Kpote only 9A in Fontainebleau. "Mowgli" stopped using shoes some five years ago and says the biggest problem is that you have to rest more in order for the toe skin to recover. Previously he has done a handful 8C's and one 8C+ in Fontainebleau, out of which several unrepeated. Video from last year together with Giuliano Cameroni, who comments. "If you use climbing shoes you need them super soft and no you would execute a slightly different move: instead of swinging with your left arm straight and your body out of the wall, you try to rock on the right foot, stay close to the wall and fall into the shoulder. The first three moves are more or less 8A. The the two crux moves, iron shoulder into cross, followed by the 7C+ stand." It should be mentioned that the 7C+ finish, which is not in the video, was chipped some years ago.