NEWS

Walk the Line 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber has done Walk the Line 8A+ in Cresciano in just three sessions. Unfortunately she got a finger injury later working on Teamwork 8A. โ€Should get a season ticket for Magnetic resonance imaging's. Not sure about how long I have to rest or do less, depending on what happened inside my finger, haha. I canโ€˜t grab any holds with my right pointer. My capsule got a distorsion, the doc told me. Will take 6 weeks or more till I wonโ€˜t feel it anymore." (c) Andi Einwaller

"Walk the line" 8A+ // Karo Sinnhuber from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.

Two 8A+โ€™ by Alex Puccio in Hueco incl one FA
Alex Puccio has done two more 8A's in Hueco Tanks, Young blood and the FA of Mammoth rub. In total the 153 cm tall has now done 76 boulder 8A+ to 8B+. (c) Robin O'Leary "I guess my second FA ever, but really this seems like the first. Really fun line on West Mt. that starts far down and left of a classic v4 called โ€œCould have been Tyโ€™s.โ€ Bomber rock, fun movement and slippery small feet. Also has some power moves in it. :) Matt Fultz and I figured out the moves and then it worked, just slightly different foot beta for the both of us was the key."

Free Solo wins Best Oscar Documentary
Climbing has taken yet another step to be recognised by the broad mass as Free Solo wins Best Oscars Documentory. On the other hand this means that many of us will have to talk crazy solo climbing once we get questions about our hobby as we are meeting new friends. A way to change the focus of the discussion, if you get tired talking solo, is to say - Honnold had more control and more safety margin than the guys trying to summit K2. Hopefully, Alex will soon do a 9a meaning we could also say that he is truly one of the best climbers in the world. Adding info about the Honnold Solar Foundation - The Honnold Foundation reduces environmental impact and addresses inequality by supporting solar energy initiatives worldwide, could also spice up the discussion and how your friends will perceive climbers. 8a interview from 2012 and one from 2011 in order for you to know more about Honnold's background. Alex Honnold scorecard with 967 climbs including comments from his free solo, Free rider, "Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a!" As can be seen on his scorecard, Alex is also one of the most active marking chipped routes as well as giving personal grades.

Three 8A+' in just five days by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has had a great start of her Hueco Tanks trip although saying she was out of shape on Insta one week ago. During the last five days she has done three 8A+' including The Tax Gatherer. (c) Robin O'Leary "3rd try. Thought the holds were going to feel worse so had a power push through them for the first try and then second try I pulled on and then stepped off because foot was not in the correct spot. Pulled on again for a third go and sent. Definitely should have flashed this one." Alex have had many injuries during the last years including some surgeries. Since almost a year she has also been plagued with double elbow tendonitis. During December she was almost not able to climb at all and on top of that 153 cm tall had increased from 54 kg to 58 kg. "I know that we all have our own peaks and valleys, but this one has honestly been one of the hardest for me, arguably harder than my major surgeries. Since last summer of 2018 I have gone through some BIG life changes, knee surgery again and then had a break from training/ climbing and so on." In 2009, Alex won her first World Cup and in 2018 she did just participate in one, which she won. One month ago, during her last climbing break, she announced on Insta that she will not try to qualify to Tokyo as she did not want to give up outdoors.

The Open Letter that was published on Rock & Ice where the headline said the chipping needs to stop did include this very provocative sentence. "We ask now that these crags of manufactured routes be removed from the walls and from guidebooks, to stop the encouragement and normalization of these practices." I do think this is totally wrong and I am sure there are many Ten Sleep Canyon climbers that agree with me. To spend hundred of hours rappelling down chopping bolts would just be crazy. If such chopping would be done it might spread around the world and create a massive conflict. One good solution, which 8a has used for like 15 years is that such routes can be marked as "Chipped" in the topo. Such message is good enough for making sure the chipping will stop. Further more, once the chipped routes go free, it could be reported like that with a new grade. It should be mentioned that the chipping stopped almost a year ago which just underlines how provocative the open letter was, asking for chopping bolts even if the problem has been solved.