NEWS

Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time. "I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"

K2 is much more dangerous than Honnold's Free Solo
National Geographic has presented some more insights in regards Alex Honnold's Free Solo of the 950 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite. It turns out that he had practiced the boulder crux, midways up, >60 times. "One move on the most difficult section required him to cling to a pea-size nub while โ€œkarate kickingโ€ one leg to reach a toehold." The Freeblast slabs he practiced >90 times and the Enduro corner >40 times. This just underlines the strong message in the movie that Alex is not a lunatic but instead he had rehearsed so much so the risk was very low. In practice, the boulder crux was probably 7A+ meaning for him it was just more or less a technical and mental difficulty and the same goes for the Freeblast slab. Alex has 961 climbs recorded in his scorecard out of which two 8A+' as well as three 8c+'. (His next climbing goal is to do 9a). So his safety margin doing 7c pitches and one 7A+ boulder was probably very big. In reality, the best estimation how dangerous it was might be to say that if he had done it 100 times, he had fallen to the ground once. This 1 % risk of death could be compared with trying to summit K2 with a much higher probability to die. So the million of movie viewers should instead think about how much dangerous it is to summit K2. "About one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit."

Aggravated Assault 8B+ by Zach Galla (18)
Zach Galla, who recently won the US Combined Nationals, has done his first 8B+, Aggravated Assault in Griffin Falls. "Oh my god yes. Used some weird heel beta. Thought it was gonna make it 8B but it still felt quite a bit harder than the others Iโ€™ve done." Full video by (c) Ashima Shiraishi

Four 8B+' in a month by Keenan Takahasi
Keenan Takahashi did his first 8A being 23 years old and then he has had a strong progress for four straight years. Just during the last one month he has done four 8B+', out of which two the last week in Hueco Tanks; Blood of a Young Wolfand The Seventh Circle. (c) Brian Hedrick How can you explain this peak? Iโ€™m feeling pretty fit and motivated this year; I started doing some basic supplemental training to work my biggest weakness (core). Otherwise just lots of volume trying hard boulders, and some added training at the end of climbing days which Iโ€™ve never tried/done before. What is the plan and ambition for 2019? Iโ€™m heading to Switzerland for 6 weeks soon; the last couple of months have kind of just been preparation for that trip. I havenโ€™t really climbed in the Ticino area so Iโ€™m really excited to finally get to spend a good chunk of time there and hopefully find some new stuff. The other big trip I have planned for the year is to get back to Rocklands in summer; I have two boulders I want to repeat but mostly want to try and develop hard highballs. Itโ€™s always been my biggest driving factor and finally having more power Iโ€™m hoping it can open doors to really pushing myself both physically and mentally.

Kirk Windstein 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber, who was #8 in the Boulder WC last year, has done La Pelle left 8A and Kirk Windstein 8A (+) in Cresciano. (c) Fabian Leu โ€I decided to stop competing a few weeks ago and just do outdoor stuff from now on. There are so many areas I wanna visit and Iโ€™m not really psyched for that comp style anymore.โ€

Petra Klingler bronze in UIAA Ice World Cup
Petra Klingler, Boulder World Champion from 2016 and who last year was #6 in the Combined WCHin Innsbruck, got the bronze last weekend in the UIAA Ice World Cup. Vladek Zumr In 2015, Petra was #2 overall and since then she has just done few and actually most of the time gotten a medal. Interesting to see world class skill in two totally different climbing disciplines. She is active on Insta and we can see she enjoys all disciplines and training hard with the goal qualifying to Tokyo.

Kuzan 8C by Ryohei Kameyama
Ryohei Kameyama has done his third 8C, Kuzan in Mie which is a seven moves 8B+ that finishes with a 8B dyno. (c) Muraguchi Liao "This hard boulder was established two years ago by Toshi Takeuchi. I tried it for three sessions. I'm so happy and satisfied to feel my progress. I would like to try "Off the wagon low start" and "Sleepwalker". These boulders are so cool!"