NEWS

1. Fanny Gibert - Jรฉrรฉmy Bonder 2. Naile Meignan (15) - Arthur Ternant 3. Hรฉlรจne Janicot - Manu Cornu 4. Maรซlys Agrapart - Sam Avezou (17) 5. Lucile Saurel - Mathieu Ternant 6. Manon Hily - Mickael Mawem Fanny, #3 in WC 2018, got her fourth French Bouldering title and Jรฉrรฉmy won his third. From the Tokyo perspective, both Sam and Mickael are among the fastest non-Speed specialists.

Climbing has published an article on Facebook that quickly has created a debate in regards Honnold's free solo - "Uncomfortable Truths, But Ignored Others" "The film ignores two important things:" 1. The film crew created some motivation for Honnold to go for it. 2. The film crew made it more simple for him to bail out. I certainly do not think these two important things were ignored in the film. On the contrary, they dealt with it perfectly. However, even if they had been ignored, I do not see a problem with this. The only thing that I think was ignored was how big risk of death did Honnold face? When we judge how irresponsible Honnold was towards his family and friends, it only comes down to the risk of death. Of course, the risk can not be measured in percentage but I do think Honnold's risk for falling to the ground up on El Cap was much lower than the risk of death, the guys pushing themselves towards the top of K2 face. If this is true, we should question every person trying to summit K2 instead of saying Honnold and his film crew was irresponsible. 8a has had a policy to not publish free solo ascents except exceptional ones which have reached mainstream. In the early days of 8a, before this policy, we several times did receive emails where climbers asked if they would get a headline on 8a if they did a certain route free solo.

Samuel Ometz, who did Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade, has done Chromosome y in Chambery giving it a personal 8c+ grade. "Good bouldery route! Two days, didn't use a knee pad. Hard to grade for me as I was only bouldering the past three months. 1st boulder felt not so bad (more fb8a than 8b) and the rest was just pumpy even though not so hard, fell five times after the boulder crux including twice at the very end, haha." Adam Ondra did call it as "Soft" when he flashed it and also Alexander Rohr thought the same doing the send repeat. The route was put up by Pirmin Bertle who has had climbs being downgraded before.

Davide Carena, who started 2019 by doing his first 8c+, has done Last Man 8c (+) in Albenga. The next day, the 15 year old did Sevedemos 8B+ (c).

Joe Mama 9a+ by Sean Bailey
Sean Bailey, #2 in a boulder WC last year, reports on Insta that he has done Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Bearcam Last month, Sean won the USA Bouldering Nationals and now he is on his way back to US again, competing in the Lead nationals this weekend.

Brian Nugent, who previously has just done one 8B+, has flashed Spectre 8B in Bishop. "I cannot think to dream of a climb in first try, but sometimes we cannot think of a dream of truth. First flash in historic problem and I can feel an incredible overwhelm of joy, anger with others for not realize their potential, and most of all FEAR in horrible choss top slab. To rephrase what is said to me by amazed friends โ€œNuggles on Fire!!!!!โ€ I had a big spray down from friends Bryce and Vincent with specific hand crystal beta and even a mental checklist, but Iโ€™m the moment itโ€™s just like a freestyle, โ€œfollow the path, go with the flow.โ€

Cathy Wagner has done No sombra 8a and BTRM 8a+ in Rodellar. "For me, a hard and logical link-up starting on BTR and ending with the crucial top section of Montserrat, much better than the chipped ending of BTR. One of the best routes for sure!" In total, the 53 year old has done 712 routes 8a and harder the last 25 years out of which possibly one fourth second go.