Piotr Schab has published a picture on his Insta showing the hold FA Ramon Puigblanque said was eliminated on La Rambla 9a+. (c) Pablo Benedito Originally La Rambla was Alexander Huber's project and in 1994 he made it to a first anchor as an 8c+. In 2003, Ramonet continued six meters by traversing right towards La Reina Mora 8c (9a). He tried to stay as close to Hubers original line meaning he eliminated a very good jug further out to the right. After the three first repeats; Marin, Sharma and A Bindhammer, Ramonet said in a video that they did not repeat his original 9a+ line but an easier 9a variation. Later Ondra repated it commenting, "without resting hold although it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited." To sum up, La Rambla with 25 ascents, is by the current grade standards, a well confirmed 9a+ (although not the hardest one) and Alex Huber's FA should today be considered 9a. However, it just might be that without adding grade inflation, everyone but Ramonet and Ondra did climb a 9a, this is at least what Huber and Ramonet thought at the time. Piotr has confirmed that the six meter extension of Hubers original line creates minor difference in difficulty. It should be mentioned that Alex Huber has said that the 8c+ grade of La Rambla was based on that Action Directe was considered a hard 8c+ at the time.

Margo Hayes and Jesse Grupper won the USA Lead Nationals ahead of Ashima Shiraishi and Zander Waller. Most interesting from the Speed event was Brooke Raboutou doing 9.32, way ahead of Margo at 11.90 and Ashima at 12.67. Only a couple non-Speed specialists have gone sub 9 seconds. Complete results Among the male, Sean Bailay who won in Bouldering should be the first USA contender to get a ticket to Tokyo but he needs to cut more than a second from his 8.66 in Speed. The best non-Speed specialist go sub 7 seconds.

Vertical-Life introduced their Smart Climbing Gym system just 18 months ago, and the number of gyms that have joined is increasing by the week. The Smart Climbing Gym tool offers many features to manage your route setting, course booking, and staff management. App users can mark their climbs, give feedback to the gym, and take part in challenges to win prizes. The app also includes free, individualized training plans that provide instructions on how (and what) to climb during a training session. Try the app for free!

Nicolas Januel reports on Insta that he has done Le pied à coulisse which was set up as Fontainebleau's first 8C+ by Guillaume Mondet in 2016. Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert have later repeated it calling it 8C. Nicolas first tried it in 2003 and in total the 36 year old needed 200 attempts over 40 sessions to take it down.

Ryohei Kameyama reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Charles Albert's No Kpote Only 9A in Fontainebleau. More info to come. (c) Ryosuke Hibino " I feel "Burden of Dreams" is more a little difficult than this problem. I think this boulder is v16/17 (8C+/9A)." Burden of Dreams is the 9A by Nalle Hukkataival. Ryohei has previously done two 8C's; The Big Island and Kuzan.

Ryohei Kameyama has done the first repeat of Charles Albert No Kpote Only in Fontainbleau and what makes it totally amazing is that he just needed four sessions! He could not do the bar foot sequence by Charles so he found new beta. In comparison, Ryohei could not do the first move on Burden of Dreams 9A, although he could within eight days link it to the top from the second move. (c) Ryosuke Hibino who has helped us out with with some further info. Next is probably La Révolutionnaire 8C+ and then possibly The Big Island sit project. They will stay until 24/3 in Font. Ryohei's secret training is campus board five sessions a week.

Justin Salas has about 10% of his central vision left, after his optic nerves began to atrophy at age 14. With his peripheral vision, mainly intact, he can see the overall shape, contrast and shadows. Old 8a interview with the ParaClimbing World Champion in 2018.

Fedir Samoilov and Nika Potapova (16) just recently did Fuck the System 9a in Santa Linya. Last year Nika was #2 in the Lead Youth WCH and she won the Youth European CH in Bouldering. Fedir was #9 in the World Cup in 2017 and in the last three events in 2018, his worst result was #11. How was the trip to Santa Linya and what are your 2019 plan and ambition? Nika: I was very satisfied with the trip. Everything went just perfect! I am super happy to have reached the 9a level in climbing. At the beginning of my climbing career I cold just to dream about this. My coach name is Artur Pechii and I am very thankful to him for support and everything he does for me. My plan for the next year is to participate in youth comps and senior WC’s and WCH. I will also try to qualify to the Olympics. Fedir: This year we have been in Santa Linya two times. First trip (in January) we had very cold conditions and the whole three weeks we were just running on the routes until the fingers become totally numb. On the second time we was much more lucky with the weather and all things went better. I was getting stronger and stronger every day. It’s a pity that time gone so fast. I think that Santa Linya is a special place with especially dynamic style of climbing and the routes usually requires a lot of power and endurance. I think this style does not fit my style of climbing and this is the reason why we are coming. I'm trying to make it to the Olympics. This year will be very hard and the very hectic for sure :) because you have to take a part in almost all WC`s. When climbing became the Olympic sport things are much better. Almost all official events are funded. But 2 - 3 years ago we almost hadn't any financial support.

Giuliano Cameroni, who did his first 8C+ last month, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of REM 8c+ in Cresciano. It shares the start of the classical Dreamtime and then it goes straight up so climbers should have looked and tried it for 20 years. The 21 year old Swizz is #2 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Hannes Kutza "The crux is a low percentage move off two micro grips. Fell on this move for a month, then took two weeks off the boulder and did it first try at 1AM!"