NEWS

Samuel Ometz, who did Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal 8B+ grade, has done Chromosome y in Chambery giving it a personal 8c+ grade. "Good bouldery route! Two days, didn't use a knee pad. Hard to grade for me as I was only bouldering the past three months. 1st boulder felt not so bad (more fb8a than 8b) and the rest was just pumpy even though not so hard, fell five times after the boulder crux including twice at the very end, haha." Adam Ondra did call it as "Soft" when he flashed it and also Alexander Rohr thought the same doing the send repeat. The route was put up by Pirmin Bertle who has had climbs being downgraded before.

Joe Mama 9a+ by Sean Bailey
Sean Bailey, #2 in a boulder WC last year, reports on Insta that he has done Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Bearcam Last month, Sean won the USA Bouldering Nationals and now he is on his way back to US again, competing in the Lead nationals this weekend.

Davide Carena, who started 2019 by doing his first 8c+, has done Last Man 8c (+) in Albenga. The next day, the 15 year old did Sevedemos 8B+ (c).

Brian Nugent, who previously has just done one 8B+, has flashed Spectre 8B in Bishop. "I cannot think to dream of a climb in first try, but sometimes we cannot think of a dream of truth. First flash in historic problem and I can feel an incredible overwhelm of joy, anger with others for not realize their potential, and most of all FEAR in horrible choss top slab. To rephrase what is said to me by amazed friends โ€œNuggles on Fire!!!!!โ€ I had a big spray down from friends Bryce and Vincent with specific hand crystal beta and even a mental checklist, but Iโ€™m the moment itโ€™s just like a freestyle, โ€œfollow the path, go with the flow.โ€

Cathy Wagner has done No sombra 8a and BTRM 8a+ in Rodellar. "For me, a hard and logical link-up starting on BTR and ending with the crucial top section of Montserrat, much better than the chipped ending of BTR. One of the best routes for sure!" In total, the 53 year old has done 712 routes 8a and harder the last 25 years out of which possibly one fourth second go.

Le Neve and Phillips win CWIF
CWIF turned out as always to be a good show and a great start of the comp season 2019. Especially among the male, many of the best participated and Nathan Phillips, #6 in the WCH 2018, had secured his victory even before he had tried boulder #3. Runner up was Sean McColl ahead of Alexey Rubtsov who did score four zones. Among the female, we saw more tops and Melissa Le Neve, who stopped doing Boulder WC's in 2016 when she was #3 overall, won ahead of Stasa Gejo. Third was Chloe Caulier who could have won if she would have stuck the last boulder as we see on the picture.

Fuck the system 9a by Nika Potapova (16) and Fedir Samoilov
Nika Potapova and Fedir Samoilov have done Fuck the system 9a in Santa Linya. Nika did her first 8b+ being 12 years old. Last year Nika was #2 in the Lead Youth WCH and she won the Youth European CH in Bouldering. Fedir did two 9a's in 2016 being 18 years old and then he had an amazing 2017 being #9 in the Lead World Cup. The following winter he got some elbow and wrist problems missing training but in the last three WCs 2018, his worst result was #11. " I have a very good coach. His name Artur Pechii and he is like a superman doing all the things that sportsman need including: coaching, planning trips, driving a car, doing massage, etc... I'm trying to make it to the Olympics. This year will be very hard and the very hectic for sure :) because you have to take a part in almost all WC`s"

Catillac 8B by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done her 18th 8B, out of which eight just the last year, Catllica 8B in Clear Creek Canyon. Two weeks ago, the 26 year old did her third 8B+. Isabelle is the new 8a ranking game leader. (c) Chad Greedy "Great one! Harder if you donโ€™t swing your feet early, canโ€™t belive how good this one turned out! Chad vision."