NEWS

From dirt grows the flowers 8C by James Webb
James Webb has repeated Dave Grahamโ€™s From dirt grows the flowers 8C in Cresciano. "One of the best. Big props to DG for this one!" Felt good to finish such a classic though! So many amazing projects here. Overwhelmed :) (c) Keenan Takahashi

Omaha Beach 8b+ semi onsight by Solveig Korherr (20)
Solveig Korherr has done Omaha Beach 8b+ in Red River Gorge on her first try. Some could have called it an onsight as she just found out in the top it shares some seven moves with an 8a+ she just had done. The difficulty of the shared part is around 7a+. It should be mentioned that some guys have recorded both routes as onsight in the 8a data base. (c) Jon Shen "I conservatively took flash for this route but the terminology does not fully represent my experience on this route. Either way, I am really happy and surprised with my performance! Onsighting my hardest redpoint grade has opened my eyes to thinking about climbing without limitations, and what is possible in my future." What is your climbing background and what is next? I have been climbing mainly indoors with my dad since I was six years old. I started competitions when I was nine. I took a break from competitions in 2017 to climb more outdoors. I returned to competitions in fall 2018 where I placed second at German Lead nationals in Darmstadt. I did my first 8b+ Kale Borroka in April 2018. I am rather surprised that I am still so fit after this three month trip in the USA and Mexico. I will return to training in Germany for the spring before future trips this summer where I hope to push my personal best.

Clepteropa orginal 9a by Xavi Gonzalez Martorell
Xavi Gonzalez Martorell has done his first 9a by repeating Iker Pou's Clepteropa Original in Mallorca. "I tried the last boulder (7C) in 8 or 9 sessions more or less but the first part of the route I knew from other easy connections." Xavi did his first 8a being 19 years old in 2014 and since he has more or less advanced one grade per year. He says his progress relates to motivation and climbing and training all free time.

NORTH 3: Gietl & Messini on Ortles, Cima Grande and Grossglockner link up
Simon Gietl and Vitto Messini wanted to see how far they could go. By climbing three big north faces, riding from one to the next. They covered 9,628 m of elevation and rode 391 km in under 48 hours. Hans Kammerlander and Hans-Peter Eisendle first linked the Ortles and Cima Grande in 1991 by fair means. North3 goes one step further โ€“ by adding the GroรŸglockner and a further 117 km by bike. It took eight months of training, including thousands of kilometres in the saddle. Mental preparation played a big role too โ€“to be able focus on the climbs, despite the lack of sleep. Poor weather made things harder, eventually forcing them to opt for an alternative route on the Tre Cime. North3 is more than just a project โ€“ itโ€™s an anthem to human willpower and smiling in the face of adversity. Get the full story and watch the video here.

Dai Koyamada reports on Insta that he has finally done one of his dream project in Hiei, calling it probably 8C. The 42 year old did his first 8C in 2003, Byaku-dou in Hourai. In total he has now done around 25 8C's out of which around 20 FA's. Daniel Woods is runner up in the 8C FA list with around 14.

The Story of Two Worlds 8C by Luis Gerhardt
Luis Gerhardt reports on Insta that he has done The Story of Two Worlds 8C in Cresciano, which would be his first. (c) Felix Hoffman "I started trying it back in January but canโ€™t tell exactly how many sessions I needed because I only tried at the weekends. So maybe around 8 - 10 sessions. The key thing was definitely the struggle with the conditions. Also did it two times in a row because I slightly touched the tree in my first try at 0.30 am. After that I felt pretty confident and was able to climb it half an hour later." The Story of Two Worlds was put up by David Graham in 2005 and the name related to the grade inflation at that time. "The new standard" of 8C was David's message which in practice down graded several hard core boulders in especially Ticino. Although many thought it was super hard for 8C in 2005, it is today considered a soft entry 8C with 14 repeats. It is also one of the most famous best boulderers out there.

Slovenia dominate Studio Bloc Masters
1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Anze Perharc SLO 2. Mia Krampl SLO - Sergii Topishko UKR 3. Jessica Pilz AUT - Vadim Timonov RUS 4. Katja Kadic SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT 5. Lucka Rakovec SLO - Jernej Kruder SLO (c) Eddie Fowke Janja Garnbret won all three stages in a rather superior style. She did all 4 + 4 boulders in both the semi and the final where the overall runner-up Mia Krampl did do 2 + 2. Amazingly, Slovenia had seven in Top-10. Among the male, the podium was sensational. The winner Anze Peharc, #3 in the Euro CH in 2017, was #25 in the WC last year and the runner up Sergii Topishko was #23. Vadim Timonov was #25 in the WCH in Innsbruck. Interesting is that the three Top-8 in the 2018 WC, Jongwon Chon was #8, Gregor Vezonik was 10 and Tomoaki Takata was #17. The 2019 French Champion Jeremy Bonder was #23. Complete results In total 149 female and 326 male participated.

Dรฉlire Onirique assis 8C by Ryohei Kameyama
Ryohei Kameyama has done Dรฉlire Onirique assis 8C in Fontainbleau in just three sessions. Both the two first ascents were done with a figure 4 move but Kameyama opted to dyno to the small crimp instead. During the last two weeks the 22 year old has also done La Rรฉvolutionnaire 8C+ (4 sessions) and No Kpote only 9A (5 sessions), meaning the 176 cm tall and 60 kg, has set a new world standard in bouldering. All three boulders was put up by Charles Alber barefoot. (c) Ryosuke Hibino "I contacted him and I was informed about the boulders. I think "La Revolutionnaire" is the best but all boulders have cool moves. I think overhang like 100ใ€œ150ยฐ is my style. I like the rock of this boulders because they include simple difficult moves in many styles. I want to try Burden of Dream again this year. I think it is the hardest boulder in the world now but It's uncertain because this is only my opinion.

World Champion Jessica Pilz from Austria was #8 in the Studio Bloc Master with 604 points. Well in front of her were seven Slovenians with Janja Garnbret at top. Among the male, Jongwon Chon won the qualification. In total 149 women and 326 male participated. Complete results The Top-20 semifinal will be live-streamed on Sunday 11.30 and the final 16.00 based on normal IFSC rules. In the qualification, there were 80 boulders to choose from. The winners gets Euro 3 000.

Sid Lives 9a (8c+) by Carnati and Silvio
Silvio Reffo andStefano Carnati, who the last month previously has done two 8c+', have repeated Gabri Moroni's Sid Lives in Arco. Both giving it 8c+. (c) Luca Bana - Reffo Silvio. "Two tries yesterday evening and three more today. Super short and super cool! Loved that pinches! Thanks Gabri for the vision! Everybody knows itโ€™s hard to grade this kind of โ€œroutesโ€. I think the whole could be 8B boulder. Therefore Imho it coulde be 8c+. Climbing a 9a so fast is a goal of mine but will stay as such for now!" It should noted that Gabri did say "9a?". Further more, several have made quick ascents and set 9a personal best with Sid Lives.