Rock & Ice has made a nice portrait of Kyle Roseborrough who died in Leonidio ten days ago "when an anchor failed as he lowered." It should be mentioned that it is not clear what happened as no problem with the anchor bolts have been reported. Kyle (45) was a very experienced 8b climber.

During Boulder World Cup finals, normally each boulder are lighten up by a spotlight just few minutes before the first person enters. Then the holds are in constant spotlight and get continuously warmed up for some 24 minutes. This means that the conditions deteriorate minute by minute which make the last climber, the winner of the semi, face the worst friction. It should be noted that in the Olympic finals with eight climbers, the last climber face holds that have been in the spotlight for some 32 minutes. The simple solution to get more fair conditions during the finals is to use led-spotlights.

Babsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Atlantic 8c and Missing Link 8c+ in Voralpsee. (c) Jacopo Larcher who just did Speed Integrale 9a. First day she checked the moves twice and then after a rest day she sent it directly after placing the draws and checking the moves again. "I couldn't train so much this winter due to an nerve compression on my old broken disc. I had to rest 7 weeks. So right after the climbing break I started with rock climbing again. It was a big surprise. I definitely think it fits definitely my style." Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

The Chongqing World Cup starts on Friday with Speed qualification and Finals. Interesting is that Adam Ondra once again skip Speed and that Shauna Coxsey and Miho Nonaka are not present. Nonaka has been injured but is scheduled for competing in Wujiang the following weekend. Coxsey has the last week posting swimming, bouldering and surfing pictures on her Insta from Marocco. Sunday GMT +8 09.30-11.45 Men & Women Bouldering Semi-finals [LIVE] 17.00-18.30 Men Bouldering Final [LIVE] 18.30-20.00 Women Bouldering Final [LIVE]

Marco Jubes: "I have developed a card game that in order to teach, learn and organize route setting for competitions and commercial gym. It is also possible to use the routesetting game to train with the team. Is a nice way to push your limits as a Routesetter and get very nice challenges. My goal with this game is to share this idea with the setting community. I have already talked with a lot of expert Routesetters and they really love the game. Another thing important for me is with this game I will not get any benefit for the selling. I will give all the money to support CAC (Climbers Against Cancer). The price of the game for me cost around 5€ (design/ production and distribution) and I will sell it for 10€ which means around 5€ directly to CAC. If you want to order in Europe you can write to [email protected], to order in the USA [email protected]. We are happy to have new distributors in all the countries, interested? just write us!"

Donate money to Climbing For All Sheffield.

Alex Puccio has done her fifth 8B+, Heritage in Valle Bavona. (c) Robin O'Leary Including also 26 8B's, Alex has the most impressive female tick list and a wide pyramid foundation for going for 8C. In 2014, she got the silver in the world championship and she won her last and only World Cup she did in 2018. "Wow.... psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn’t even warm up. Last day best day!!!! :) This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gastone and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!"

Toni Lamprecht, legendary hard core FA-ionist in all disciplines; 9a routes, 8C boulders, 8c MPs and 8c DWS, has opened another two 8B's in Kochel, Jessica Jones and Tyler Durden. "I worked the whole winter (2-3 sessions in the week, depends if I go skiing or not) on a really hard (8C?) roof project. So "Tyler Durden" is the exit of that project in combination with a 8a+-finish. I tried that 4 days, but I know the exit really well, because it is the finish of "Marla Singer" from 2004. "Jessica Jones" I tried on and off for the last 2 years. It is a crazy short problem with 3 moves. Needed 20 sessions to figure out the right solution and another 3 days to combine it. There would be an 8B sit start to it. Next season? I guess, because the temperatures jumped over 20° now. I might go surfing or do some multipitch stuff near by."

Based on almost 3 000 unique votes, here are the result for - Best Climbing Shoes 2019? La Sportiva continues their domination and Scarpa gets another improved result. Five Ten drops some percentage again. 43 % La Sportiva (44 % last year) 28 % Scarpa (20) 10 % Five Ten (14) 07 % Others (7) 06 % Tenaya (6) 03 % Ocun (5) 03 % Boreal (5)