Billy Ridal has repeated Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody (8c+) in Dumbarton. ”E11. Took the whip and snapped a nut. So much fun to climb on that head wall though, a special route.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I went up to Dumbarton last month, the idea being to scope Rhapsody out, ready to train for it in the Autumn. It was obvious from my initial play on top rope that I got on with the style. The route has two distinct sections, the initial crack (shared with the Iconic E8 Requiem) that comes out around f7c+, a decent rest, and then the sustained headwall. For me this was 22 moves, split in the middle by a couple of holds good enough to chalk up on. The first half is extended punchy moves on open handed holds. I really like this section, it suits my style really well and I can pace through it without feeling I lose much. From here is the redpoint crux, 11 moves of positional crimping, no move is totally stopper, but it keeps coming at you right to the lip. I think this is really special. The route builds in tempo to this perfect crescendo, unrelenting as the lip gets closer and the gear further away.

After a couple times up on top rope I managed to link the headwall, and though we didn’t have much time, there was no excuse to avoid getting on the sharp end and seeing what it was all about. I was nervous that first go, climbed the crack quite poorly, was pumped at the rest, but figured I should give it my best and get to grips with being above the gear. I got up into the final crux section and after a few moves of whimpering, took the whip. It was hefty, and the swing in is heavy on the ankles, but it’s not toooo bad. This gave me confidence, I was up fighting in the final moves despite there being lots to refine, and the fall had been okay. I could do it.

Coming back this time had a different feel, I knew I could do it, the cameras were on and the pressure to perform felt acute. Last trip, one of the key wires (a No1 half nut) had got stuck in the head wall from taking the fall. I’d had to really yank on it to get it out, and had discussed if this could compromise the cable. Naively, I didn’t really think it would be a problem. Eager to get on with it, I put it out of my mind.

My I felt good on the wall and found myself climbing all the way through to eyeing up the lip, then, all of a sudden I was airborne. As I fell I heard a bang above me. No time to process in the moment other than an instinctive feeling of terror. The rope came tight and whilst the impact with the wall was pretty heavy, I was fine. Then a nut cable, minus the nut head, tinkled down the rope to me. The cable had snapped, right by the head, exactly where I had wondered if I had damaged it.

The first thing to note here is that there’s a second, larger nut, right next to it. Having two good bits of gear next to one another is what gave me the confidence to try this route in the first place, there’s a back up for exactly this kind of thing. Nonetheless, I’d thought the route was totally safe and that these two nuts amounted to whipping on to a bolt. Not quite. A small half nut like this is rated at 4kn, a small enough force that you could definitely generate in extreme situations, especially if the piece is slightly compromised… Slightly shaken, we went in to Glasgow to buy some new gear. Having two fresh nuts, and adjusting my quick draws so that the larger, stronger nut weighted first, was enough to calm my mind to get back on lead. The next morning, everything came together and despite feeling the nerves in the last couple moves, I found myself on top of the crag.

It came together faster than I anticipated, but it was still an intense experience for me in to unfamiliar ground. Rhapsody demanded something new, and that’s always a special thing.

Akira Waku, who started to climb at age 35 with no sports background, has put up Dendrobrium (8C) in Shiobara, after projecting it for 25 days. In practice it is a new link up, connecting Hydra, reverse UMA and finish up with Kalamba.

”Immediately after the completion of Hydrangea (8C) 6 years ago, I was able to solve all the moves in a 6-day effort and started connection tries but the result was eliminated.

Since all the parts are on the existing line, it may not be said to be a pure "first ascent”, but it is called "first climb" because it is a line that no one has climbed yet", including the backflow part of UMA.

In terms of grade, it is definitely more difficult than UMA (V14), and personally, I felt that it was a little more difficult than Babel and Barth (I think it's probably easier), so I chose V15 first.

Even if you are over 54 years old, you can still challenge the limit And I think that being able to climb has been a great food for further goals.”

The British E-grade is designed to assess the difficulty and the danger of onsighting a traditional climbing route. There exist one E12 and a handful E11’s. At the higher end of the scale, accurately evaluating these factors becomes challenging, so a French sport grade is often included for additional clarity. When an "R" is added, it indicates a significant Risk of injury. For example, falling at the final 7C boulder crux near the top of Lexicon could result in a 25-meter fall, with the potential to hit the wall hard.

Giuseppe Nolasco, who sent his third 9a in 2022, has during the same week sent Goldrake (9a+) in Cornalba and
Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. In the 40+ ranking game the 160 cm tall Italian is #2.

Can you tell us more about the ascents and the amazing sending week?
It’s been a busy few weeks. I’d been feeling fit for a while, but Goldrake had stayed wet for weeks on end. I first started trying Goldrake back in 2023 and came very close, falling at the final hard grip. In 2024, I barely managed to get on it at all—the route was constantly wet. This spring, I returned to Cornalba with high hopes, but after a few sessions where I wasn’t feeling great, Goldrake got wet again and stayed that way for two months.

At the beginning of June, I went back just to collect my gear, thinking the season was over. But I decided to give it one more try—and fell again at the last hard move. That attempt rekindled my motivation. Just a few days later, I finally sent Goldrake, clipping the chains after a long journey. This route has truly helped me grow as a climber.

A few days after that, I returned to the Station, where I’d been working on another project—one I alternated with Goldrake whenever it was too wet. I was feeling good. After a rough first try, I gave it another go, and it all came together. In the span of a week, I managed to send both Goldrake (9a/+) and First Class (9a).

Is it possible to keep progressing at age 40?
Yes, of course, it's possible to be in shape at 40. I'm talking about physical fitness—and above all, mental fitness. Training and pushing yourself shouldn’t feel like a burden; instead, try different approaches and train in the ways that suit you best.

Nothing happens by chance. If you're challenging yourself, there will be both low moments and high ones. You just need to recognize when it's time to adjust your strategy—but never give up on your goal. Consistency and passion have no age.

Lara Neumeier, who three months ago sent her first 8b+ trad route, has completed the 240 metres Silbergeier (8b+) in Rätikon. The grades of the six pitches are; 8b, 7c+, 8a+, 7a+, 8b+, and 7c+/8a. (c) Ray Demski

“I first tried Silbergeier in early May. Over 3.5 days, I slowly worked my way through the route; figuring out sequences, getting used to the technical & slabby style, and dealing with thin, painful skin. I managed to link the first four pitches but never sent the crux and barely looked at the final pitch.

Then came three weeks of bad & unstable weather. I used the time to rest, grow some skin, and get ready - mentally and physically — for a possible send. When I finally went back, I thought: maybe. But the day before, everything pointed in the opposite direction. I had just gotten my period, received a painful car repair bill, and got a call from friends who’d just broken a key hold in the crux pitch. Then — just a few kilometres before the parking — my car broke down again. Honestly, I wasn’t sure I’d even make it to the wall. But somehow, I did.

The day started slow. I felt tired, not quite there. The first pitch felt hard — full-on pump — but I got through. And then, something shifted. I started moving with focus and precision. When I reached the crux pitch, I reworked the sequence — and even tough a crucial hold broke on the day before my beta still worked. I waited for shade. Took a deep breath. And sent. One last pitch remained. Tricky and bouldery moves. I took some time to figure it out, gave it everything I had — and topped out!! Silbergeier — what a route. Sharp, technical, and absolutely beautiful. Some days remind you it’s not about perfect conditions or perfect timing — it’s about showing up anyway, and giving it everything you've got.”

Neumeier’s ascent of Silbergeier marks the first step in an even bigger goal: completing the Alpine Trilogy—three of the most difficult multi-pitch climbs in the Alps, all graded up to 8b+ and known for their boldness, beauty, and historical significance. Next up: End of Silence, in Berchtesgaden, Germany and Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilden Kaiser, Austria.

BJ Tilden, who previously has put up some 30 routes 8c+ and beyond, has done the first ascent of Show Your Teeth (9a) in Wolf Point. (c) Matt Pincus

Can you tell us more about the process behind the FA?
I bolted this route last summer. I tried it a few days in the fall to get the beta sorted but didn’t go too deep on it. I knew it was really good and I was super psyched to focus on it this spring. The bottom of the route is a 30 move sprint right from the ground, then a good rest and a pumpy 8b to finish. The white panel climbing is some of the best at the cliff. It came together after eleven days of effort this spring.

The following info comes from Bernd Zangerl: The bouldering area Silvapark / Galtür is a popular meeting point for the bouldering community during the summer.
In recent years, more and more campers and motorhomes have been using the parking spaces in the Silvapark / Galtür bouldering area, which has led to problems with nature conservation in the region.
As a result, the mountain railway operators had to reorganize the parking and camping situation.

PARKING:
Day visitors can still use the parking ticket machine.
Parking is available for 5 or 12 hours (€5 or €10 respectively).

5 hours → €5
12 hours → €10

OVERNIGHT STAYS / CAMPING:
All guests staying overnight must book and check in via the QR code on-site.
The parking spot (“Stellplatz”) and tourist tax (“Kurtaxe”) must be paid online by card!

PITCH FEE / TOURIST TAX:
→ Book & pay online here:

→ €10 + Tourist Tax

→ For spontaneous visitors, a QR code is posted on-site that leads to the same website, where they can register and pay.
Upon registration, guests will receive a digital guest card that allows free use of the hiking bus.

ANNUAL PASS HOLDERS:
Annual pass holders have already paid for the parking spot (“Stellplatz”) and only need to pay the tourist tax.
They also need to check in and will receive an invoice for the outstanding tourist tax at the end of each month.

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, with eight 9a’s under his belt, has done Patanics (9a+) in Rodellar, giving it a personal 9a grade. (c) Álvaro la fuente

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After finishing the season in Margalef, I visited my hometown to see my family and friends. My body and mind urged me to return to Rodella to try Patanics. In total, it took five weeks of work. I was very close to achieving it in the second week, but the conditions weren’t the best. It took me another three weeks until I woke up at 4:00 a.m. and found the perfect conditions to do it.

How come you call it 9a?
For me in terms of difficult it is similar to No pain no gain (9a+) [which he also graded 9a]. You climb more meters (around 20 more) and ends in a final 7c part. For me in it is not enough to be 9a+. It’s only a personal opinion. You know that I like graduate hard.

Jules Marchaland, #4 in the VL ranking game, has onsighted Produit de la saume (8c) in La Saume. ”Everything went perfectly, all the decisions were good. Super happy for my first 8c onsight, a soft one for sure. But psyched to have seized the chance 🥹”

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
Onsighting is often ungrateful, but yesterday everything went perfectly. I made the right decisions at the right moments, and it was great! I want to go for more onsights — it’s one of my favorite ways of climbing. To finish the session, I went for Dragée Fuca (8b+) flash, an 8c in two pitches, and I slipped at the very top 🤡. But the anchor was below, so I also flashed an 8b+.

It was a really good day in a great place — perfect to take a breath before the World Cup season :)

Yufei Pan, who set a personal best last weekend in Prague to rank #5, clinched a narrow victory in Bern, edging out Mejdi Schalck by just 0.1 point and Sorato Anraku by 0.5 points. With this result, Anraku has secured the overall title, while Schalck is all but guaranteed the silver.

”It feels unreal. My mind was so empty, I didn’t know how to express myself. The last few years have been really tough for myself, I struggled so much and I thought I was not good enough. I started to change my mind and not put too much pressure on myself. At the beginning of the season it was not so good, but this time I just wanted to enjoy myself.