NEWS

La Planta de Shiva 9b by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his second 9b, La Planta de Shiva in Lillanueva del Rosario. In total, the american has now done 42 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. "Fought with every ounce in my body... a feeling I will never forget! Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell. So freaking excited about this send!" More info on his Insta (c) Javi Pec

8c+ by Moritz Welt (17) in just two sessions
Moritz Welt had done Markus Bock's Behind the blackest Tears 8c+ in Frankenjura in two sessions. In the Combined ranking, the 17 year old is #2. (c) Lars Decker "The route was pretty much my style with a 7c lower part and just one hard boulder in the end bouldery on small holds, typical Frankenjura style."

Garnbret takes fourth straight win in 2019
Janja Garnbret topped all four boulders in the final winning her four straight WC win in 2019. Last year she only did three WC events, winning the last two after being runner up in her first. #2 was Akiyo Noguchi, actually for the third time this season. 15 year old Ai Mori was #3 in her first Boulder WC Final. Miho Nonaka, who won overall last year, who has had a shoulder injury did her first WC cup this season and was #4. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Janja Garnbret 44 SLO 2. Akiyo Noguchi 34 (4) JPN 3. Ai Mori 34 (11) JPN 4. Miho Nonaka 24 (4) JPN 5. Jessica Pilz 24 (6) AUT 6. Julia Chanouride 2 FRA Complete results

1. Japan 1 288 2. Slovenia 1 025 3. France 535 4. Austria 395 5. Russia 313 Complete ranking Japan continues to dominate the National Boulder World Cup as they have done for several years. Slovenia has been runner up for a couple of years. Never before two countries have dominated the ranking as in 2019.

Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sectors
Climb Greece reports that two new beach sectors have been opened just in time for the Kyparissi Festival 10-12 of May. In total, 60 new lines have been bolted and Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, says that the potential it as least 1 000 more routes in the area. "If ever there was a dream crag above the beach, Balogeri Gorge is it: cliffs and faces of top-quality limestone unfold through the mountains until they spill out onto a remote beach with small white pebbles and clear blue/green waters."

Narasaki wins and Japan keeps dominating
Tomoa Narasaki, who has been runner up in the two WC he has entered this season, won in Wujiang before WCH Kai Harada. Jakob Schubert got his first medal in 2019 beating Keita Dohi on countback. 1. Tomoa Narasaki 34 (7,8) JPN (c) Eddie Fowke - IFSC 2. Kai Harada 34 (7,13) JPN 3. Jakob Schubert 14 (2,9) AUT 4. Keita Dohi (2,9) JPN 5. Kokoro Fujii (3,18) JPN 6. Jan Hojer (9,11) GER Complete results The next stage is in Munich in two weeks and interesting is that Tomoa is not going meaning he is not giving the Boulder WC priority, as he did previously skip Moscow. The same goes for all the five Japaneses who were Top-7 in Wujiang.

Garnbret has secured the title with two events remaining
1. Janja Garnbret 400 SLO 2. Akiyo Noguchi 240 JPN 3. Fanny Gibert 188 FRA 4. Petra Klingler 180 SUI 5. Futaba Ito 178 JPN 6. Jessica Pilz 176 AUT 7. Shauna Coxsey 145 GBR Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke Janja Garnbret has already secured the title with two events remaining. It should be mentioned that Akiyo Noguchi has skipped one event and will also skip the next one in Munich. In fact, all the Top-4 best female from Japan will skip Munich and instead train and compete in Combined in Tokyo. Shauna Coxsey has skipped two events in 2019 and is not on the starting list in Munich. That is also the case for Stasa Gejo who has not done any WCs this season due to an injury. Last year winner, Miho Nonaka missed the three first due to an injury. In other words, most of the best from last year have either been injured or seem to give low priority for the Boulder WC in 2019. It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 260 JPN 2. Adam Ondra 204 CHE 3. Kokoro Fujii 190 JPN 4. Rei Sugimoto 179 JPN 5. Aleksey Rubtsov 159 RUS 6. Anze Peharc 154 SLO 7. Jernej Kruder 151 SLO Complete results Interesting is that both Tomoa and Adam have just done three events. Further more as Tomoa and another four of the best Japaneses will skip Munich in two weeks, anybody ranked in Top-20 can still win theoretically. However, in practice it is probably a battle in between Ondra and Narasaki with Peharc and Kruder as the first challengers. The ones having not performed up to standard are especially Sean McColl with 31 points and Alex Megos with 49 points but also Alex Khazanov with 63, Gregor Vezonik with 81 and Jakob Schubert with 84 points. It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

Janja Garnbret was the only one topping all four boulders in the semi and she only needed six tries. Among the male Japan set a new standard with six guys among the best including also all Top-3 positions with Kokoro Fujii winning. In total, there will be three female, including 15 year old Ai Mori, and four male from Japan in the final. Interesting is also that Jakob Schubert and Jan Hojer made it to the finals for the first time in 2019. Adam Ondra coming back frombeing sick the last weekend was #14. Complete results

1. Luce Douady 44 (5) FRA - Nicolai Uznik 14 AUT 2. Celina Schoibl 44 (9) AUT - Mikel Molina 13 ESP (1,4) 3. Urska Repusic 34 SLO - Alfons Dornauer 13 (1,7) Complete results The Norwegian coach Reino Horak reports ony positive comments for the comp. "Good organisation and vibes throughout the competition. Exciting until the end and the boulders were fun. I am really looking forward to more European Cups in the future. "