NEWS

The Game 8C by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai reports on Insta that he had done The Game in Boulder Canyon which was his tenth 8C. "Iโ€™m so happy to send Danielโ€™s masterpiece ! It took 2 days to send. First day, this boulder was bad condition due to rain and snow. I could do compression moves of upper part on the day, but bottom part (from start holds to 3rd hold) was so wet, and I couldnโ€™t do. Second day, this boulder was better condition and I managed to climb it in the evening. When I touched this boulder at the first time, I was certain that I can climb because Iโ€™m good at roof climbing and compression moves. So I could do quick ascent though it's a hard problem." (c) Oda Momo

Esclatamasters 9a (8c+) by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud, who previoulsy has done 18 9a's and one 9a+ FA, has done Esclatamasters 9a (8c+) in Perles, in just six tries. (c) Henning Wang "Now I come back in France for working. I hope the weather is good for trying the local project. Short routes in local cliff "Les Rigauds" and another one in "Virignin".

La Rustica 8C by Daniel Woods - first to reach 12 000 = 8C average Top-10
Daniel Woods confirms upgrading of Jimmy Webbs La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona on his Insta. "Pure compression wrestling out this perfect overhung river polished feature. The crux move is a savage reach out right to a hard to get into pocket. From here you gotta keep your shit together all the way to the end. I actually fell on the last move a few times." (c) Stefan Kuerzi - Insta Interesting is that Daniel will be the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points once he has put it in his scorecard. His Top-10 ascents the last 12 months includes two 8C+ and two 8B+ and the rest 8Cs. The 29 year old has been one of the leading climbers in the world the last 12 years and in total he has now done more than 250 boulders 8B and harder. Add to that five 9a+ and one 9b including also winning a Boulder World Cup, the 169 cm tall should be considered one of the best climbers in the history.

Yoshiyuki Ogata, currently #8 in the Boulder WC, has set a new Japanese Speed record at 6.37. A total of five other potential non-Speed specialists did take part in the comp in Tokyo where Tomoa Narasaki was second fastest at 6.75. Complete results Due to the multiplication format in Tokyo, the person who wins any discipline is almost automatically Top-5. The fastest time ever by a non-Speed specialist is 6.34 by Mickael Mawem and third is Tomoa Narasaki with 6.69.

5c by Marcel Rรฉmy (96) projecting a 6a MP
Marcel Rรฉmy, born in 1926, has done the first pitch of Les Guรชpes in St-Loup which his sons Yves and Claude put upin 1974. The second and finishing pitch is 6a and as he could not do it, it has become his project which he trains for. (c) Claude Remy, who together with his brother Yves have bolted some 15 000 routes. Two years ago, Marcel did Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+. He came down flying a dual-parapente. Video in French.

Pachamama 9a+ by Piotr Schab
Piotr Schab, who just did his first 9b, has done his eight 9a+, Pachamama in Oliana in just eight tries. "Probably the best sequence of moves I've done in past couple of years." (c) Marcin Szymkowski The Pole is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra which he has been for almost two straight years.

Vertical-Lifeโ€™s Underdogs to adidas ROCKSTARS
Qualify for the top-class bouldering invitational and compete with the best bouldering athletes in the world! This year, two users of the Vertical-Life app will have the chance to compete at the prestigious adidas ROCKSTARS among the best climbers on the planet โ€“ it could be YOU! Here is how the selection works: Check if your gym is on Vertical-Life, and if so, mark your climbed boulders in the app and take first in your gymโ€™s bouldering ranking by July 31st. The best climber from each gym will enter into the crowd voting. All Vertical-Life users will be able to vote for their male and female favorites. If you are among the 10 athletes with the most votes, you will enter into the jury stage. An international jury will select one male and one female climber. The winners have the honor of competing in their gymโ€™s name at adidas ROCKSTARS in Stuttgart on September 13th-14th. The Underdog winners will get an athlete invite to adidas ROCKSTARS and compete with the top athletes of the international bouldering circuit. They'll enjoy the same privileges on site as the invited pros. All travel and accommodation expenses will be covered. There's an additional bonus for all high performing climbers: adidas will reward the 10 crowd favorites with an adidas / Five Ten Underdog Package, while the best climbers of each gym will receive a prize from Vertical-Life. 1. Participate in your home gymโ€™s ranking on Vertical-Life 2. Be among the top 10 athletes in the crowd favorite voting 3. Be chosen by the VL jury and participate at adidas ROCKSTARS Check out the Underdog Website to find out more about participation and ranking criteria. If your gym is not yet on Vertical-Life, you can send a request to [email protected] and encourage your gymโ€™s management to sign up.

The Outer Limits 8C by Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi has done the first repeat of Jimmy Webb's The Outer Limits 8C in Donner summits, in six sessions. "5 star line, great movement. Broke one of the crimps that Jimmy used, so had to adapt the sequence a bit. Maybe the hardest boulder I've climbed?" Carlo has now done seven 8C's and in the Combined ranking, including having done the second ascents of the trad 8C+ Meltdown, he is #16.

Martin Keller has published a a nice passionate blog about his FA of Ninja Skills SDS 8C/+ in Sobrio. It took his some 150 sessions including many during the night. It should be noted that in 2012, Martin put up Der mit dem Fels tanzt after some 100 sessions. In 2016, he did the FA of Highlander 8C (B+) after 13 years of projecting. Further more, last week Martin did the Story of Two Worlds Low 8C which he used as a training preparation.