NEWS

Counting four out of five before the last WC in Vail in June. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 284 - Janja Garnbret SLO 400 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 260 - Fanny Gibert FRA 243 3. Anze Peharc SLO 193 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 240 4. Kokoro Fujii JPN 190 - Jessica Pilz AUT 194 5. Jakob Schubert AUT 184 - Petra Klingler 180 6. Jernej Kruder SLO 182 - Futaba Ito JPN 178 7. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 180 - Katja Kadic SLO 147 8. Rei Sugimoto JPN 171 - Shauna Coxsey 145 Complete results In practice, the overall male title is a battle in between Adam Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki although all Top-5 can in theory win. If Tomoa wins in Vail, Adam need to be runner up.

Slovenia with two million inhabitants dominated the qually in Munich when Japan had nine of their Top-10 absent. Anyhow, three of the Top-7 male were from Japan. The winners of the respectively groups were Janja Garnbret, Urska Repusic, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Anze Peharc. Complete results

James Webb #2 to reach 12 000 points
Last week, we reported that Daniel Woods became the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points in the 8a scorecard ranking game. Now, with the FA of Primitivo 8C in Valle Bavona, James Webb has gotten 12 040 points, only 3 points below Daniel. On the other hand, only counting flashes, James is kind of superior with 14 8B flashes. (c) Keenan Takahashi

9 of the Top-10 from Japan skip Munich
According to the Munich starting list, the Top-4 female and Top-6 male from Japan (but Yoshiyuki Ogata) are not scheduled to compete in Muncih. These nine boulderers have made it to the semi 28 out of 31 times in 2019. (c) Eddie Fowke In the last event in Wujiang, the four female were all Top-7 and the five male were all Top-7! Shauna Coxey as well as Stasa Gejo are also missing. This means we will see many new faces in the semi and in the finals at the same time this will be the most important WC in 2019, to get a good combined ranking score.

Janja Garnbret (20) best competition track record ever
Janja Garnbret has won the last six WC boulder events she has entered. In Lead, she has missed the podium once in all the 25 WCs she has done since she was 15 years old. In total, she has won 62 % of all Boulder and Lead WCs she has competed in. In the four World CH events she has participated in she has won three gold and one silver. (c) Eddie Fowke from last year winning in Munich. Interestingly, she has been selective and not done all comps any year. Last year she just did three out of seven Boulder WCs and in 2016 she did not participate in the WCH. During the years we have seen many youngster being very successful being 15 or 16 years old but all most of them stopped competing quite early. Adam Ondra has also been careful selecting comps in the start of his career.

France dominated the European Youth Cup in Graz. In total they got two golds and eight Top-4 positions. The most superior winner was once again Oriane Bertone who did all eight problems in the qualification first try and she was the only one to do all four final boulders. 00: Leo Favot FRA - Camilla Moroni ITA 02: Alberto Gines ESP - Nika Potapova UKR 04: Oriane Bertone FRA - Jim Zeimes LUX Complete results

Jonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario last week, has at the same crag done Mandega total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. "Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars.

Mandanga Total 9a (8c+) and three 8c+' by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario ten days ago, has at the same crag done Mandanga total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. (c) Javi Pec "Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars." J-star is #3 in the 8a ranking game and in total he has now done 43 routes 9a and harder. More info on his Insta. "This last week has been awesome for me, feeling relief that the main objective is over and climbing a muerte on these other 5 star lines. At this point my body and mind are completely blown out, and itโ€™s time for some serious rest."

Cathy Wagner has done La Padrina 8a+ in Capรงanes in just three days, "greatly facilitated by the powerful unexpected wind of the evening." The 53-year-old has done 63 8a's to 8b during the last year and in total, 720 since 1994, out of which 23 % second go.