NEWS

WICS: Indoor industry meeting 19-21/6 in Sofia
WICS, World Indoor Climbing Summit, is the first global event in the climbing industry and stands out by gathering a unique international set of climbing industry experts, under one roof. A carefully selected agenda built around the business of running a climbing gym โ€” and the doโ€™s and donโ€™ts of turning it into a profitable venture, from the perspective of various markets โ€” make the event a valuable experience for any climbing gym operator. It unites the pioneers of the industry on a global scale โ€” people who have witnessed and experienced the growth of climbing from the first row and have played a big role in it. โ€œIt was interesting to hear the different ways the US market diversifies from Europe and Australia and some other places. And I thought that was unique perspective that I havenโ€™t had before. Having all these gym operators from around the world in one place and having that kind of discussions was really interesting.โ€ Jeffery Bowling, Marketing, IT and Business Development Manager at Touchstone Climbing

Pure Dreaming 9a by Davide Picco
Davide Picco has done his third 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco in eight sessions. "Pure dreaming is a rather new line, bolted by Alfredo Webber and freed by Adam Ondra last year. I started trying it two months ago during weekends. The route is a masterpiece of endurance, after 20 meters or so of athletic movements on a steep wall you get to two small crimps where you need to rest and recover for the last section, the hardest one. I guess the style suits me very well even though I didn't expect to redpoint the line this fast. I'm super happy."

Two 8B's by Rei Kawamata (15)
Rei kawamata, who was #5 in the Moscow Bouldering World Cup, has had a great trip to Ena where he did two hard 8B's, Anomally and Ankokumaru. "It is very nice. There where some 8B+ that seemed possible. I want to return in the end of the year." Next up for the 15 year old is the Boulder World Cup in Vail in June and the the Youth World Championship in Arco in the end of August.

8c+ by Moritz Welt (17) in just two sessions
Moritz Welt had done Markus Bock's Behind the blackest Tears 8c+ in Frankenjura in two sessions. In the Combined ranking, the 17 year old is #2. (c) Lars Decker "The route was pretty much my style with a 7c lower part and just one hard boulder in the end bouldery on small holds, typical Frankenjura style."

Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sectors
Climb Greece reports that two new beach sectors have been opened just in time for the Kyparissi Festival 10-12 of May. In total, 60 new lines have been bolted and Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, says that the potential it as least 1 000 more routes in the area. "If ever there was a dream crag above the beach, Balogeri Gorge is it: cliffs and faces of top-quality limestone unfold through the mountains until they spill out onto a remote beach with small white pebbles and clear blue/green waters."

Garnbret takes fourth straight win in 2019
Janja Garnbret topped all four boulders in the final winning her four straight WC win in 2019. Last year she only did three WC events, winning the last two after being runner up in her first. #2 was Akiyo Noguchi, actually for the third time this season. 15 year old Ai Mori was #3 in her first Boulder WC Final. Miho Nonaka, who won overall last year, who has had a shoulder injury did her first WC cup this season and was #4. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Janja Garnbret 44 SLO 2. Akiyo Noguchi 34 (4) JPN 3. Ai Mori 34 (11) JPN 4. Miho Nonaka 24 (4) JPN 5. Jessica Pilz 24 (6) AUT 6. Julia Chanouride 2 FRA Complete results

1. Japan 1 288 2. Slovenia 1 025 3. France 535 4. Austria 395 5. Russia 313 Complete ranking Japan continues to dominate the National Boulder World Cup as they have done for several years. Slovenia has been runner up for a couple of years. Never before two countries have dominated the ranking as in 2019.

La Planta de Shiva 9b by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his second 9b, La Planta de Shiva in Lillanueva del Rosario. In total, the american has now done 42 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. "Fought with every ounce in my body... a feeling I will never forget! Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell. So freaking excited about this send!" More info on his Insta (c) Javi Pec

1. Tomoa Narasaki 260 JPN 2. Adam Ondra 204 CHE 3. Kokoro Fujii 190 JPN 4. Rei Sugimoto 179 JPN 5. Aleksey Rubtsov 159 RUS 6. Anze Peharc 154 SLO 7. Jernej Kruder 151 SLO Complete results Interesting is that both Tomoa and Adam have just done three events. Further more as Tomoa and another four of the best Japaneses will skip Munich in two weeks, anybody ranked in Top-20 can still win theoretically. However, in practice it is probably a battle in between Ondra and Narasaki with Peharc and Kruder as the first challengers. The ones having not performed up to standard are especially Sean McColl with 31 points and Alex Megos with 49 points but also Alex Khazanov with 63, Gregor Vezonik with 81 and Jakob Schubert with 84 points. It should be mentioned that for the non-Japanese, the Munich WC is the best option to get a good score for the Combined World Cup 2019.

Janja Garnbret was the only one topping all four boulders in the semi and she only needed six tries. Among the male Japan set a new standard with six guys among the best including also all Top-3 positions with Kokoro Fujii winning. In total, there will be three female, including 15 year old Ai Mori, and four male from Japan in the final. Interesting is also that Jakob Schubert and Jan Hojer made it to the finals for the first time in 2019. Adam Ondra coming back frombeing sick the last weekend was #14. Complete results