Janja Garnbret won The Rock Ljubljana and interestingly, Garnbret had to do the last boulder first try as otherwise, the winner of the Euro 5 000 had been Vita Lukan. More info. Among the male, Alexey Rubtsov got the victory but very sadly he reported on his Insta that he tore the tendon of the long biceps head. Most probably this mean he will not be able to compete in the WCH in Tokyo. In order to make it to the Top-20 qualification event in Toulouse, he needs to be fully recovered for the last two event in China and Japan in October.

Here are some old training articles that could motivate you to keep pushing. Patxi Usobiaga Zlagboard training Running can be contra productive Steve McClure training Training 40+ Technical endurance advices Dyno tips Recruitment finger training

00: Nicolai Uznik AUT - Lucia Dörfer GER 02: David Colombo ITA - Lucie Delcoigne BEL 04: Edwards Gruzitis Lat - Alex Totkova BUL Complete results Austria was the best country in the European Youth Cup in Sofia with a total of five medals.

Based on some 1 500 unique votes, "Best climbing rope 2019?", we can see very small changes in comparison to the 2016 results, shown in brackets. 19 % Sterling (21) 18 % Beal (19) 17 % Mammut (18) 15 % Petzl (12) 14 % Edelrid (13) 10 % Tendon (12) 06 % Other (5)

Cathy Wagner, who did her first 8a in 1994, has done her 8a+ #155, Da Lineking in Rodellar. "Sooo happy! Fell at the last move on my first go 2 weeks ago totally pumped and today, despite the wobbly warm-up, I felt steady. IMO, the right knee-bar in the middle of the 3rd part of Maskoking makes the route easier, so I'd say a soft 8a+." The 53 year old teacher did her first 8b in 2001 and yesterday she did her 17. Interesting is that she has never started off a year as good as in 2019! If Cathy would have taken part in the ranking game, she would have been #2 in the Age & Gender ranking game, after Adam Ondra.

From the starting list to the Boulder WC we can see only four of the female Top-10 will participate. Among the male, the winner in Munich Jakob Schubert and Anze Peharc skip it. In practice this means that in Vail, like also in Munich last week, many of the best do not participate. Most probably, the reason for this is that many think the Olympics is more important. The season is very long and will be finished with the qualification event in France.

Matt Fultz has done the third ascent of Peter Würth's Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 in Magic Wood, video. First you climb the boulder roof and then you clip in finishing with four bolts in order to climb and stand at the top of the gigantic bloc. "Soft 8C? Or 9a? Either way, might be Earth’s best rock climb." In the Combined ranking game, Matt is #5 and actually with just one 8c+ route he will be #2. (c) Nevin Rajen

Daniel Fong, who did three 8B+' last year, has done his first 8C, Paint it Black in RMNP in just four sessions. Video on his Insta Daniel Woods put up the 65 degrees overhanging. "Really cool to get on a hard climb that is also high quality. 4 sessions, first two were basically figuring out the second move aka my crux. Had a ton of support from the homies and tried hard, psyched to get it done before the heat comes. Out of my depth in this grade range so I’m going with consensus."

Toni Lamprecht, who previously has set up 14 boulders 8B+ and harder, has done the FA of Muttertagsdach 8B+ in Kochel, actually twice and there is still an extension. "I'm working on the "Stoamatz-Projects" since last winter. The lower start in the roof is sometimes wet, that's why I climbed the "Muttertag"-version first. Then I moved some stones on the ground and now it is possible to start 2 hard moves lower. And there would be the extension. Next to this roof-project I have some 5 other hard projects around Kochel and of course the same number of route projects. And there's more in the pre-alps of Bavaria, so it never gets boring..."