Jonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario last week, has at the same crag done Mandega total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. "Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars.

Jonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario ten days ago, has at the same crag done Mandanga total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. (c) Javi Pec "Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars." J-star is #3 in the 8a ranking game and in total he has now done 43 routes 9a and harder. More info on his Insta. "This last week has been awesome for me, feeling relief that the main objective is over and climbing a muerte on these other 5 star lines. At this point my body and mind are completely blown out, and it’s time for some serious rest."

Ryuichi Murai reports on Insta that he had done The Game in Boulder Canyon which was his tenth 8C. "I’m so happy to send Daniel’s masterpiece ! It took 2 days to send. First day, this boulder was bad condition due to rain and snow. I could do compression moves of upper part on the day, but bottom part (from start holds to 3rd hold) was so wet, and I couldn’t do. Second day, this boulder was better condition and I managed to climb it in the evening. When I touched this boulder at the first time, I was certain that I can climb because I’m good at roof climbing and compression moves. So I could do quick ascent though it's a hard problem." (c) Oda Momo

Cathy Wagner has done La Padrina 8a+ in Capçanes in just three days, "greatly facilitated by the powerful unexpected wind of the evening." The 53-year-old has done 63 8a's to 8b during the last year and in total, 720 since 1994, out of which 23 % second go.

Daniel Woods confirms upgrading of Jimmy Webbs La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona on his Insta. "Pure compression wrestling out this perfect overhung river polished feature. The crux move is a savage reach out right to a hard to get into pocket. From here you gotta keep your shit together all the way to the end. I actually fell on the last move a few times." (c) Stefan Kuerzi - Insta Interesting is that Daniel will be the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points once he has put it in his scorecard. His Top-10 ascents the last 12 months includes two 8C+ and two 8B+ and the rest 8Cs. The 29 year old has been one of the leading climbers in the world the last 12 years and in total he has now done more than 250 boulders 8B and harder. Add to that five 9a+ and one 9b including also winning a Boulder World Cup, the 169 cm tall should be considered one of the best climbers in the history.

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Ett inlägg delat av pascalgagneux (@pascalgagneux) 9 Maj 2019 kl. 12:11 PDT

Yoshiyuki Ogata, currently #8 in the Boulder WC, has set a new Japanese Speed record at 6.37. A total of five other potential non-Speed specialists did take part in the comp in Tokyo where Tomoa Narasaki was second fastest at 6.75. Complete results Due to the multiplication format in Tokyo, the person who wins any discipline is almost automatically Top-5. The fastest time ever by a non-Speed specialist is 6.34 by Mickael Mawem and third is Tomoa Narasaki with 6.69.

Mathieu Bouyoud, who previoulsy has done 18 9a's and one 9a+ FA, has done Esclatamasters 9a (8c+) in Perles, in just six tries. (c) Henning Wang "Now I come back in France for working. I hope the weather is good for trying the local project. Short routes in local cliff "Les Rigauds" and another one in "Virignin".

Marcel Rémy, born in 1926, has done the first pitch of Les Guêpes in St-Loup which his sons Yves and Claude put upin 1974. The second and finishing pitch is 6a and as he could not do it, it has become his project which he trains for. (c) Claude Remy, who together with his brother Yves have bolted some 15 000 routes. Two years ago, Marcel did Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+. He came down flying a dual-parapente. Video in French.

Piotr Schab, who just did his first 9b, has done his eight 9a+, Pachamama in Oliana in just eight tries. "Probably the best sequence of moves I've done in past couple of years." (c) Marcin Szymkowski The Pole is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra which he has been for almost two straight years.