Tomoa Narasaki impressed again by hitting 6.29 in Speed which can be compared to 7.87 by Adam Ondra, 7.94 by Jakob Schubert and 8.94 by Alex Megos. Mickael Mawem was the fastest by the non-Speed specialist with 6.28. Interesting was also that all five Japanese that qualified Top-11 made 7.12 or faster. Manuel Cornu, Sascha Lehmann, William Bosi and Domen Skofic failed to qualify due to not producing up to their best Speed performance.

Bassa Mawem is currently #8 in the Combined after winning the Speed qualification and he needs most probably to be at least #5 in the Speed final. Rishat Khaibullin is #12 and need to be #6 in the final but being #7 could also be good enough. John Brosler is #20, being #4 in the Speed qualification. Long Cao is #21, being #2 in the qualification. Ludovico Fossali is #27 being #5 in the Speed qualification. In theory also Qixin Zhong, Jan Kriz and Danyil Boldyrev could make the Top-20 but then they need to win the Speed final In theory, there could be 0 - 5 male Speed specialists in the Combined Top-20. Complete results

Three female Speed specialists made it to the Top-20; Alexandra Miroslaw #9, Di Nui #10 and Anouck Jaubert #13. Among the male, Ludovico Fossali #8, Rishat Khaibullin #14, are also through. This means that almost certain the winner of the Speed Combined qualification will get an Olympic ticket. Actually among the female, with nine from Japan and Slovenia getting a normal score, probably also the runner up in the Speed qually will get an Olympic ticket. Actually, it was quite close that we got four female and three male Speed specialists in to the Top-20. In the end, Vita Lukan and Michael Piccolruaz were the lucky two getting a convenient Speed result among the specialist becoming #20 overall.

In the first round Ludovico Fossali's opponent did fall. In the second and third round he did not have to climb as he won due to false starts. In the final, Ludovico slipped twice and got 6.87 but as Jan Kriz slipped three times and in the end fall, the Italian become the lucky winner. Winning means that he also advanced to the Top-20 in Combined getting a good chance for getting an Olympic ticket. Complete results

Aleksandra Miroslaw, who won last year in Innsbruck, got a bad start in the final race against Di Niu but executed the last ten meters perfectly and won at 7.13, very close to the world record at 7.10. Complete results In the Combined ranking Miroslaw was #9, Niu #10 and Anouck Jaubert #13 after getting the bronze in Speed.

Japan got five female Top-15 and Slovenia got four into the Top-20. The Top-7 will get an Olympic ticket but with a max country quota of one from Japan and two for the other countries, it just might be that Top-12 get through. This also open up for two out of the three Speed specialists getting the Olympic ticket. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction of who will qualify to the Olympics. Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, Mia Krampl, Anouk Jaubert, Shauna Coxsey, Chaehyon Seo and Jessica Pilz.

Tomoa Narasaki won the Combined qualification stage through 1 - 4 - 12. In fact, his Speed time out of the remaining Top-20 is #3. In order to win for Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos, who are much slower in Speed, any of them need most likely be at worst 1 & 2 in Lead and Boulder. Interesting is also that Italy and Germany both got three to the Top-20. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction who will get an Olympic ticket: Tomoa Narasaki, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Alex Megos, Ludovico Fossali, Sean McColl and Jongwon Chon.

Keegan Sullivan's father Brandon reports. "This July our family took our first trip to Squamish. It was amazing. We were there for a month and enjoyed all the crags we visited in Squamish, Whistler, and Pemberton. The family topped 415 boulder problems! I contributed 1 top, my wife Heidi sent 42 problems and the boys teamed up for the rest – Keegan sent 207 problems at 9 years old, Killian sent 103 problems at 7 years old, and Lochlann sent 62 boulders at just 6 years old." Keegan's 7C+' were Zero-Zero and Jim Carrey. In total he has now done five 7C+' out of which the first more than a year ago. More info at Sullysends.com.

Great semi finals where Alex Megos did get the highest among the male ahead of Tomoa Narasaki. Interesting to see that most of the male just used some 3 minutes and fastest of them all was Sean McColl ahead of Adam Ondra. Japan got four male Top-14. Among the female, nice to see Anak Verhoeven was back in good shape after a long injury but she was timed out that put her out of the final. Interesting to see that Slovenia, with 2 million inhabitants, got three in Top-4 and five Top-12 with Janja Garnbret winning the semi. Japan had four girls Top-14 with Miho Nonaka skipping the semi due to her shoulder injury. Complete results