NEWS

Pijane trรณjkฤ…ty 8c by Marketa Janosova (15)
Marketa Janosova, who has been third in the last two Lead Euro Youth Cups, has done her first 8c, Pijane trรณjkฤ…ty in Podzamcze. (c) Krzysiek Przybysz This summer the 15 year old has also onsighted five 7c+' as well as her first 8a. In the Age and Gender bonus ranking game, she is #12.

Martin Strรกnรญk has done is eighth 8C, Ghost Rider in Moravskรฝ kras and he is #4 in the ranking game. (c) Jakub Koneฤnรฝ "5 sessions, super powerful climbing in cave, love this style of climbing, really fits my style! Another stunner for Moravia Carst, potential of hard lines here is endless!" Martin started out as a successful youth Led competition climber who later got the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007 at age 17. This year he took up Lead again and was #9 and #6 in the only Lead WCs he did. Speed, he has also tried twice but two false start so we do not know if he could be a dark horse for one of the Tokyo tickets.

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Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger by Stefano Carnati
Stefano Carnati, who last year did Biographie 9a+, has done Thor's hammer in Flatanger calling it 9a. (c) Francois Peraldi "King line, 60m, never over! On my 3rd day on it I was able to link all the hardest part from the fourth bolt, but the wet holds at the beginning turned out to be a nightmare and I found myself struggling with the first sequence for days! Think it's far harder than all the 9as I did, but I have less experience than all the others who did this route..."

Dave Graham reports on Insta of a new amazing 25-mover FA in Rocklands, Deaf Leopard 8B+. " Felt pretty damn hard for me with my sequence, seemingly a notch above other problems of the same grade here in Rocklands, but with so many options for potential new beta that could arise, its a tricky one to grade."

Cathy Wagner has done her first 7c+ for eight years, Jalabi in San Roque. The 54 year old is famous for having done 731 routes 8a and harder which is more than any other female. If she would have taken part in the Age and Gender bonus ranking, she would have been #2 after Adam Ondra.