Tomoa Narasaki won the Combined qualification stage through 1 - 4 - 12. In fact, his Speed time out of the remaining Top-20 is #3. In order to win for Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos, who are much slower in Speed, any of them need most likely be at worst 1 & 2 in Lead and Boulder. Interesting is also that Italy and Germany both got three to the Top-20. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction who will get an Olympic ticket: Tomoa Narasaki, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Alex Megos, Ludovico Fossali, Sean McColl and Jongwon Chon.

Based on the provisional Speed qualifications results, three female Speed specialists are currently Top-20 in Combined. This could however change in the final. In order for them to maintain Top-20 Anouck Jaubert needs to finish at least #5, Aleksandra Miroslaw at least #3 and YiLing Song at least #3. Further more Di Niu, Natalia Kalucka, Andrea Rojas and Aleksandra Kalucka still have the chance to make it if they advance from their qualification results. In theory also Patrycja Chudziak and Anna Brozek could make it being Top-3 in the Speed final. In reality this means that 0 - 6 female Specialists will qualify to the Combined final. The multiplication format used means that it is almost certain that any one qualifying to the Combined final will get an Olympic ticket. It should also be underlined that this is in practice the only chance for a Speed specialists to get an Olympic ticket. Speed qually results YueTong Zhang, Elena Krasovskaya and Fanny Gibert are the ones sitting on the side hoping for some bad results for the Speed specialists mentioned above.

Tomoa Narasaki impressed again by hitting 6.29 in Speed which can be compared to 7.87 by Adam Ondra, 7.94 by Jakob Schubert and 8.94 by Alex Megos. Mickael Mawem was the fastest by the non-Speed specialist with 6.28. Interesting was also that all five Japanese that qualified Top-11 made 7.12 or faster. Manuel Cornu, Sascha Lehmann, William Bosi and Domen Skofic failed to qualify due to not producing up to their best Speed performance.

Bassa Mawem is currently #8 in the Combined after winning the Speed qualification and he needs most probably to be at least #5 in the Speed final. Rishat Khaibullin is #12 and need to be #6 in the final but being #7 could also be good enough. John Brosler is #20, being #4 in the Speed qualification. Long Cao is #21, being #2 in the qualification. Ludovico Fossali is #27 being #5 in the Speed qualification. In theory also Qixin Zhong, Jan Kriz and Danyil Boldyrev could make the Top-20 but then they need to win the Speed final In theory, there could be 0 - 5 male Speed specialists in the Combined Top-20. Complete results

Keegan Sullivan's father Brandon reports. "This July our family took our first trip to Squamish. It was amazing. We were there for a month and enjoyed all the crags we visited in Squamish, Whistler, and Pemberton. The family topped 415 boulder problems! I contributed 1 top, my wife Heidi sent 42 problems and the boys teamed up for the rest – Keegan sent 207 problems at 9 years old, Killian sent 103 problems at 7 years old, and Lochlann sent 62 boulders at just 6 years old." Keegan's 7C+' were Zero-Zero and Jim Carrey. In total he has now done five 7C+' out of which the first more than a year ago. More info at Sullysends.com.

In the first round Ludovico Fossali's opponent did fall. In the second and third round he did not have to climb as he won due to false starts. In the final, Ludovico slipped twice and got 6.87 but as Jan Kriz slipped three times and in the end fall, the Italian become the lucky winner. Winning means that he also advanced to the Top-20 in Combined getting a good chance for getting an Olympic ticket. Complete results

Japan got five female Top-15 and Slovenia got four into the Top-20. The Top-7 will get an Olympic ticket but with a max country quota of one from Japan and two for the other countries, it just might be that Top-12 get through. This also open up for two out of the three Speed specialists getting the Olympic ticket. Complete results Here is the 8a prediction of who will qualify to the Olympics. Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, Mia Krampl, Anouk Jaubert, Shauna Coxsey, Chaehyon Seo and Jessica Pilz.

“To be honest, I did not expect to win tonight. After a very exhausting program of bouldering and lead climbing right after, I felt pretty tired and it was quite hard to believe in myself. It was especially hard during qualification, it was a bit better in the semi-finals, and then in the finals, I was reconciled to the fact that I had to put everything into it,” says Ondra right after the competition. Despite the excellent form of Ondra’s two main competitors, Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos, Ondra made almost no mistakes, and in the end, it was one hold that decided about his World Champion title. “I made a few mistakes today, but my competitors made more. I was very lucky in that final step because I was able to do one step more than Alexander Megos and Jakob Schubert and thanks to that, I became the World Champion,” commented Ondra enthusiastically his final steps. (c) Lukas Biba