Zélia Avezou, who won silver at last year’s World Cup Salt Lake City, claimed her first World Cup gold at Keqiao in China. The 22-year-old scraped into the semifinals after finishing tied for 23rd in qualification as the last climber to advance, then placed sixth in the semifinal. In the final, however, she rose to the occasion, drawing level when it mattered most and securing victory before Janja Garnbret had even started her final boulder. Across the competition, Garnbret topped 10 of the 13 boulders, while Avezou managed five but it was enough to seal a breakthrough win.

“Honestly, I’m just wondering what has happened. I think I will fully realise later maybe. I just took it one boulder at a time. I thought the boulders were pretty easy apart from the first one, and the last would be really important.

I didn’t really think about the win, I just thought that if I got ten points on the final boulder I can get in a good position. Maybe I didn’t think I could top it honestly, but it was nice to do a physical boulder for once in my life.”

Alex Johnson, with 24 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and two World Cup victories under her belt, has completed Russia (8A+) in San Rafael Swell. ”Intermission taco and modelo assist from the retired ladies off-roading sprinter van club. serendipitous day with Sera.”

Can you elaborate more on that special day with Sera?
I tried this boulder the same day I sent gringo (8A+) in January, and came close but was just too tired. Then I was injured for all of February and March, and was only recently able to get back out.

I went with Sera Gearhart, and she sent second go, she’s really on one right now, especially with her back to back days of climbing V13 and 14. Huge inspo.

A few hours in, I split a tip and debated calling it. At that moment, my dog ran off to a nearby campsite as they were serving dinner, and he could smell it. We chased him down, and when we walked into the campsite we were met by a dozen women with sprinter vans on a women-only camping trip. They immediately handed us plates and beers, and we ate tacos and chatted.

After eating, we went back to the boulder and I guess the break, the taco, and the beer worked, because I found myself topping out. All the ladies cheered. The day was so serendipitous, it was one I’ll never forget.

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Eva Hammelmüller, who the last six months has completed four 9a’s and beyond, has sent Joturna (9a) in Götterwandl. In the VL ranking game, the 26-year-old is runner-up behind Laura Rogora. (c) Felix Mast

”I think I just sent my longest project ever. About 14 sessions, probably more than 40 tries, and I finally stood on top of this undercling-endurance-beast today. So many doubts, nerves, skin parts, and fights went into this route. Thanks to you, Juturna, my biceps grew at least one centimetre, I swear :D I am glad to have shared this journey with so many friends - the Innsbrucklyn climbers are the best!! Definitely felt harder to me than "Hades", maybe I don't qualify as "tall" ;)”

What is next?
I checked out another cool project in Zillertal today, and I also have some smaller projects in Niederthai and Götterwandl. However, I’ll mostly spend the next weeks training, working and studying and try to be as ready as I can for summer trips!!

Debbie Carrasquer, who last year did her first 8A+, has sent No Means No (8A+) in Tahoe (CA). ”FFA? The most finicky project I’ve tackled. With my span and center of gravity 🍑, I had to completely reimagine the beta, adding intermediates and micro-adjustments over 9 sessions. But what really made it was having Lucy there, thanks for bringing the psych and your engineering skills. Thanks Jesse for the FA!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Very excited to have accomplished another limit project in less than a year from my first of the grade. This route wasn’t the longest traverse I’ve climbed but definitely the hardest most finicky crux for my body. I had to completely reimagine the beta; adding intermediates to increase the percentage of the moves.

It’s been a real rollercoaster: months of training, the falling of the last tree providing shade, planning sessions around 3 snowstorms and micro beta adjustments to not aggravate a hammie strain caused by the reachy move on the crux. I was close to giving up after falling on the last move for many sessions but I was lucky to have friend’s support who encouraged me to keep trying.

Right after topping out there is always that mix of relieve, excitement, and even nostalgia that, once more, reminds me to enjoy every moment of the process.

Tereza Širůčková, who last year sent both 8B and 8c+, has been busy the last ten days doing Stargate (8c), Glutaman (8c) and Lamač Dívčích Srdcí (8A+) in Moravský kras. Last year, the 23-year-old opened the World Cup season with 14th- and 16-place finishes.

Can you tell us more about all ascents the last week?Sun’s out, rock’s calling! ☀️ First stop: Krkavka. My project was missing a hold, so I switched and wanted to try Stargate. I felt surprisingly light in the moves and sent it on my “second go” (I already knew most of the route except for the crux boulder). After that, I just wanted to enjoy the climbing and did some 8b and 8b+ variations of the route.

Next sunny visits took me to Moravský kras for Glutaman. The conditions were perfect. I put the draws in and sent it on my second attempt of the year. Clipping the chains actually brought some tears to my eyes because this route means so much to me. I remember being a little kid, watching Ivča Vejmolová’s video in total awe, thinking how amazing it is to climb something like that... and suddenly, I’m the one doing it.

Topped off the trip with a few quick variations Hro-Glu (8b) and Bar-Hro-Glu (8a+/b). I was really happy that I sent them so fast—even though I knew the starts from a while back, I was proud that I kept my focus and sent them all “first go.”

We’ve improved the bolting and safety log features on Vertical-Life Web to make it easier to document route equipment and track safety-related observations.

Safety information is available on each route’s detail page, where you can report issues and add bolting or rebolting updates to keep the information accurate and up to date.

You can also more easily identify routes with reported safety issues directly in crag route lists.

This is part of our ongoing commitment to support safer climbing areas. We plan to continue developing these tools together with local rebolting organizations, helping them better manage, coordinate, and finance rebolting efforts.

More updates to follow soon.

Connor Herson made the first ascent of Drifter’s Escape (9a+) in February. Including several trad ascents at 8c+ and above, the 22-year-old currently holds the most impressive traditional climbing tick lists in the world.

The line is the fifth pitch of an old aid route and includes two initial bolts that protect easier terrain from a serious potential fall. The 20-metre crack is mostly protected with small cams (0.2 or smaller), and Herson spent roughly 20 sessions over two seasons working the route. Most of the pitch climbs at around 8a crack difficulty with linked sequences, before finishing with hard 8A boulder-style cruxes.

At the Asian Beach Games in China, Yicheng Zhao shattered Sam Watson’s Speed World Record, lowering it from 4.64 to 4.58 seconds. The 16-year-old, already a three-time Youth World Champion, was competing in his first senior-level event at the Asian Games. Here is his incredible record-breaking run.

Lorenzo Bassi, with eight 8B’s under his belt, has done the first ascent of Shiba Inu sit (8C) in Göscheneralp. ”The war is over! 10 sessions for this incredible line! FIRST 8C! After sacrifices and suffering, I managed to take home what has been my best ascent ever. Special thanks to Diego, Mario, and everyone who was there. “It was my moment.” And yes, for those who doubted… I finished the Nutella 😛”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the FA and skipping the 8B+ grade?
The story of this boulder started in a very natural way. I wasn’t looking for a specific grade, but for a line that would truly motivate me. When I first saw it in Göschenen (in Switzerland), it was immediate: aesthetic, logical, and with movements that demand absolute precision. From that moment, it became a long-term project.

I had already climbed the stand version, a solid 8B, back in early 2025, so returning in 2026 was more about reactivating those movements and rebuilding confidence. The real challenge was linking everything from the sit start: building the first section, stabilizing the foot switch, and arriving at the crux in the right position. The crux is a single move around 8A, very intense but also extremely dependent on body alignment. For a long time, it wasn’t about strength, but precision, being just a few millimeters off meant falling.

The process was not linear. There were moments of big progress, but also forced breaks due to weather, snow, and especially skin management. Interestingly, those breaks turned out to be essential: they allowed me to recover and come back each time fresher, both physically and mentally.

Over time I realized that on a boulder like this, it’s not about trying a lot, but about trying well. I reduced the number of attempts and focused on quality. When the crux became almost automatic as a single move, I knew the boulder was ready to be sent, it was just a matter of putting everything together in one clean run.

The day I sent it was quite special. I didn’t feel in perfect shape: little sleep, average sensations. But maybe that helped me climb without pressure. I only took a few attempts, and on one of them everything aligned: precise feet, perfect tension, no hesitation on the crux. And suddenly, I was topping out.

As for “skipping” 8B+, it wasn’t really planned. In recent years I’ve focused more on specific training and the quality of projects rather than following a linear grade progression. I was probably lucky to find a boulder that suited my style very well: powerful, precise, and very dependent on body tension. I also came from a very solid training period, so the level was already there. I don’t really see it as “skipping a grade”, but rather as the result of a process: when everything aligns; training, experience, conditions, and mindset, the grade becomes a consequence