Paige Claassen, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, reports on Insta that she has done her first 9a, Shadowboxing in Rifle. I tried shadowboxing around 12 times, over 6 weeks. I would normally only try once a day, because the route is always in the sun, so the window of opportunity is short. I've really focused on improving my power over the last few years, as that's almost always what holds me back. The technical feet on shadowboxing suited me, but so many underclings in a row meant I really had to work on my bicep power.” In November she goes to Namibia to work on her farms and her Education Fund. ”I run a nonprofit organization called Southern Africs Education Fund. We build classrooms in rural Namibia for a school serving 800 children in a space built for 350 children. SAEF added 4 classrooms to the school in December 2018, and we are building another 4 classrooms in November of 2019. Over half the kids at the school are on the orphans and vulnerable children list, meaning their families cannot afford their basic needs. Education is their path out of poverty.

Rei kawamata, #5 in both the Moscow WC as well as in the Youth CH, has done Hydra 8B (+) in Shiobara. Last year he did his first 8B+ there being just 14 years old.

Laura Rogora, who won three golds in the Youth WCH last month, reports on her Insta that she has onsighted Il sentiero dei nidi di ragno L3 8a+/b and Rondini 8b. (c) Andrea Donato This weekend the 18-year-old is in Edinburgh for the European Lead Champion trying to beat her #6 position she got two years ago. Then back for the last two WC comps trying to maintain her position overall to get the chance qualifying to the Olympics in Toulouse. Whem it comes to outdoors, the Italian has been Top-5 in the world the last three years including also six routes 8c+/9a or harder.

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Cathy Wagner has done her 8a+ #161, Mucho muschio in Pian Bernardo. (Google translate) "In this superb variant of Mucho Gusto, it is the final boulder under the chain that makes the difference. It is true that the many knee bars lead to it and we leave before the crux a bit psycho from the top which really simplifies the challenge and even me, I was a coward in the block." In the last month, the 54-year-old has also done seven 8a's, out of which five second go. In total she has done 732 routes 8a and harder which should be most in the world for any female.

Marine Thévenet, #7 in the Boulder World Cup in 2014, has done her first 8B, Nuthin' but sunshine in RMNP in just two sessions. She has previously done 27 8A’s and 9 8A+’s. (c) Clément Lechaptois “Nuthin but sunshine is a super line, a compression with a technical heel hook. For me the harder was to figure out the first movement. I tried all the movements a first day and everything went well except this first move. Then, on a second day, I found a new body position for this first move and I fell off at the last move a few times. Finally on a "last try of the day" I did it ! Unexpected because the weather was pretty humid that day! We were completely in the mist. Super happy to have done such a good boulder :)”

Gambaro Matteo, who did his fourth 9a this spring, has done the FA of Aurora 8c+ in Albenga. It is 35m long. First chain after 15m 7a+, 2nd 25mt 8a+, good rest and 10m extension. In total the 45-year-old has bolted 160 routes out of which 45 in this crag. "I finished bolting this spring and this summer hard to try due to high temperature and style. The first 8a+ is endurance and physical tufa style challenge and you arrive in the good rest. After changing style and intensity. The exit is fingerstyle and needs good condition.. (for me).

Alex Garriga, who previously has done six 9a's, all of them the last ten months, has done his first 9a+, Ali Hulk Extension Total in Rodellar, which is a 30m roof link up with 80 moves. In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old is #6 but bt looking at his trend diagram, he should be Top-3 within a year or so. "I was a month in Rodellar climbing and was testing the route but I was also doing others. At the end of the trip I was very attentive and had to return a couple of days to do it. For me the key was to clarify the part of the rope so that once the boulder was passed, I could make the way."

Japan won the National Boulder ranking ahead of Slovenia and it is the same story in Lead. As the last two World Cups are in Japan, most likely, the Japanese dominance will just increase and set a new record in 2019. Korea is #3 but in reality it is Chaehyon Seo with 380 points that is the biggest threat to the two top countries. Complete results 1. Japan 1 202 2. Slovenia 876 3. Korea 484 4. Austria 472 5. USA 380 Complete results