NEWS

25 October 2019

Inzai semi

The last World Cup of 2019 will take place in Inzai this weekend. Tomoa Narasaki and Janja Garnbret have secured their titles. The result is based on the two best ranking results among the once having done at least two comps in the three disciplines, i.e the relative ranking results. 1. Tomoa Narasaki 1 728 - Janja Garnbret 195 2. Adam Ondra 2 072 - Akiyo Noguchi 3 456 3. Jakob Schubert 27 720 - Jessica Pilz 12 420 4. Kai Harada 34 020 - Lucka Rakovec 144 256 5. Kokoro Fujii 84 700 - Miho Nonaka 201 600 6. Sean McColl 182 400 - YueTong Zhang 205 620 7. YuFei Pan 215 040 - Julia Chanourdie 285 120 8. William Bosi 429 624 - Ai Mori 440 154 Complete results Before Xiamen, Ondra was not listed as he had not scored two results in each discipline. In practice, this means that almost all got a worse calculated score as soon all his six Top-2 results were added to the ranking. It is impossible to speculate further who has the best chance to become #3 after Adam Ondra or who will make it to Toulouse.

Adam Ondra wins third straight Lead WC
Kai Harada, Boulder World Champion in Innsbruck, is last out on the final route that looked too easy as three had topped before him. It seems he is on cruise mood until he falls as he could not hold the top jug. If he had topped he had won but now he did not even get a medal. Furthermore, if Kai had won he would have been the favorite to win overall as he just needed to be #6 the next weekend to overtake Adam, who will not compete. Instead, Adam secured the overall title although just participating in three events out of which he won all. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Adam Ondra CZE Top 2. Taisei Homma JPN Top 3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN Top

Chaehyeon Seo (15) wins fourth straight Lead WC
Three tops and three girls falling from the last hold, including Janja Garnbret, and at the end Chaehyeon Seo (15) got her fourth straight victory, on countback, and secured the overall title. The 15-year-old topped all four route with ease as it looked. Talking about the Olympics, Seo has not participated in any Boulder WC's so her only possibility to make it will be through the Asian Combined Championship. Including also all the Tops and ties in both the semis and quallies, the route setting must have the worst separation since IFSC started with World Cups in 1989. Both coaches and athletes are using the word scandal to describe what they just witnessed. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Chaehyon Seo KOR Top 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN Top 3. Jain Kim KOR Top Complete results

Alpenbitter 9a by Obed Hardmeier
Obed Hardmeier has done his second 9a in Gimmelwald, Alpenbitter. "I tried Alpenbitter for the first time in June this year. In July and August I had to focus on exams for my full-time study. After the exams, I was very motivated for rock climbing again, so I started projecting Alpenbitter and made good progress. All in all, it took me seven sessions until I could climb this great line. The first section consists of some powerful moves to a bad rest point, from where you climb into the crux (maybe a 7C/+ boulder problem of four moves). After a good rest, the last few meters to the anchor are no more harder than a 7c route. Today, the conditions were exceptional with stormy winds and very dry holds. Special thanks to all the people who have been supporting me these days โ€“ it is a great privilege to climb together with a super motivated "Gimmelwald-Crew"!"

21 October 2019

Highlights from Xiamen

20 October 2019

Ties record in Xiamen

The bad route setting, in regards separation, continued also in the semi where 15 women reached 33+, meaning countback decided who made it to the final and who was #22. Janja Garnbret, Chaehyon Seo and YueTong Zhang topped. Three from Japan to the Top-8 final and beside two from Slovenia non from Europe made it through. Among the male, Kai Harada topped and then eight guys were tied at 31+ including another three from Japan. Interestingly, USA got two through accompanied by Adam Ondra and Alberto Gines Lรณpez.

France dominated the European Youth Championship in Lead by taking four golds. Slovenia was runner up with a total of four medals. Out of the big countries, Germany was once again not performing at the top level with just three finalists, the best-ranked #5. 00: Luka Potocar SLO - Nina Arthaud FRA 02: Paul Jenft FRA - Camille Pouget FRA 04: Gergรถ Valyi HUN - Oriane Bertone FRA It should be mentioned that the route setting and the organization etc were as ever at the highest level in Russia.