As running means that an increased proportion of your around 5 litres of blood circulates in your leg, it can be counterproductive both for warming up your forearms and for it's recovery. Clearly running is good for your heart in order to fight big overhangs but then it should be done in short intervals. Long distance running will just build up your capillary bed in your legs learning your blood circulation to redirect it from your forearms. The worst warming up is done, running or cycling, to your gym getting cold finger tips as you instead of opening up your capillaries, you close them learning your blood to avoid the forearms. Here are some more detailed thoughts and explinations from Dr 8a, Björn Alber, MSc Training physiology and one of the best kayaker in the world during the 80'ies. "All gyms and top climbers should have a kranking machine or a rower. This would make most us get better endurance.

All climbers - from seasoned big wall experts to indoor beginners - are invited to complete the International Climbers’ Survey 2019. The survey, published by Vertical-Life in collaboration with the IFSC, is intended to learn more about all climbers’ interests and behaviors in outdoor and indoor climbing. With the Olympics 2020 around the corner, climbing is in the midst of a period of significant changes, such as urbanisation and rapid growth. We would like to find out what climbers love about their sport and how they feel about these developments. The results of the survey will serve as a snapshot of today’s global climbing community and provide answers as to where climbing is headed as a sport and lifestyle. Your reward for completing the survey is a voucher for one month of free access to all digital climbing guides on the Vertical-Life app. Additionally, many other great prizes from FiveTen, Salewa and Zlagboard will be raffled off among the participants. Completing it should take no more than 20 minutes. A summary of key results will be shared via Vertical-Life’s online channels and selected media.

We have been informed that Alexey Rubtsov will be allowed to compete in the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse. This means that most probably, IOC has agreed on 22 male and female participants, meaning also Jernej Kruder, Sandra Lettner and Iuliia Kaplina are in. The reason for this late change is that first IFSC invited Rubtsov etc but later changed the rule meaning they were out. In the end, IOC must have agreed that this is most fair. Here is the full starting list. Rubtsov reports that he has only been doing bouldering and one hour Speed training lately so he has just one week to catch up before it starts next Thursday. Kruder has as always been climbing outside so now it is time to get back on that Speed wall again.

The Toulouse Olympic qualification starts November 28th and here is the 8a speculation who will make it. Among the male, no Boulder specialist have been listed simply because of Team Japan, although no one can qualify, is sending four Boulder specialists. This means that it will be much harder to get a good ranking in Boulder compared to in Lead. At the same time, as the Japanese are also very good at Speed they will, in general, get a high ranking overall meaning that most probably being Top-10 will be good enough. This will open up for possibly two Speed specialists qualifying to Tokyo. The ones suffering the most that the Japanese are allowed to compete are the boulder specialists that are also good Speed climbers like Jan Hojer and Manuel Cornu. Furthermore, as Jernej Kruder and Aleksei Rubtsov do not yet know if they can make it, the odds are against them. 1. Adam Ondra - Lucka Rakovec 2. Bassa Mawem - YiLing Song 3. Alberto Gines Lopez - YueTong Sang 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Jain Kim 5. Sasha Lehmann - Julia Chanourdie 6. Alfian Muhammed - Anouck Jaubert Among the female, only two from Japan will compete at the same time there might be five Speed specialists. This will open up for the ones being relatively weak in Speed. At the same time, it is expected that both Slovenia and France and possibly also the USA will fill their country quota. This means that it just might be good enough to be Top-12 to get the Olympic ticket. In theory, it just might be three Speed specialists going to Tokyo.

Max Bertone, who did his first 8c last months, has done three 8b+ during just three days in Ouaki; M&M's, Partagas and XXX. The 12-year-old is little brother to Oriane, the most successful youth competition climber in 2019.

Buster Martin has done his firt 9a+, First Ley in Margalef and he executes the six first quick draws and the hardest part in just 53 seconds.

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Ett inlägg delat av Buster Martin (@bustermartin) 18 Nov 2019 kl. 8:28 PST

Giani Clement, who had just done two 8B+' until 2018, reports on Insta that he has done the second repeat of Michael Piccolruaz' La Grosse Tarlouze in Magic Wood, which is his third 8c. Jonathan Heusser "It was probably my biggest fight I ever had to climb a boulder. It was a fight against the massive pump, due to the length of more than 40 moves, as well as a fight with the icy cold temps which were difficult to handle. The decisive factor for the successful ascent, apart from mental & physical aspects, was certainly the choice of the right tactics, especially because of the extremely cold rock, which tends to make my fingers so numb during climbing. A hot stone saved my life at the shaking point!" How can you explain your great progress in 2019? I think there are several factors. I've certainly become physically & mentally stronger, I've also trained in a structured way and prepared myself specifically for some boulders in cooperation with a coach (Patxi Usobiaga). Then I remained injury-free and put the focus on projecting & repeating hard boulders.

The Olympic qualification in Toulouse starts in ten days but still Jernej Kruder, Aleksei Rubtsov, Sandra Lettner and Iuliina Kaplina await confirmation if they are allowed to compete. Some four weeks ago they got an invitation to participate but later IFSC changed the qualification rules. Imagine how hard it is for them to actually train Speed etc in order to prepare as they do not know if they will go to Toulouse.