Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger and commented to 8a. "I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there. Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness."

Fred Nicole put up Entlinge in Murgtal as an 8C in 2005. It is a very steep modern problem where you finish by going feet first. It took four years until it got repeated twice both confirming the 8C grade. In 2011, Daniel Woods flashed, video, it calling it 8B+ and later James Webb was the first one giving it 8B in 2014 which now also Vadim Timonov recently did. Using average grading, it should still be considered as a hard 8B+ but in reality, most probably this great test piece will possibly settle as an 8B? As we have seen similar grading stories before one might ask why? First of all, at that time in 2005, we did have relatively few in- or outdoor steep problems where the best could train and challenge themselves. Furthermore, it just might be the very first hardcore problem ending with a feet first move. In other words, as Nicole and others approached this style that had limited experience and it just felt super hard. Personal grading was not that popular in 2009 when it first got repeated and the repeaters just took what had been offered and this was considered as a confirmation. When Woods did flash it, suggesting it could be much easier, he could not go any further then 8B+. If it would have been his FA, he just might have given it 8B but surely he had to take into consideration that three guys have called it 8C. It should be underlined that the whole process is just natural and part of the game. Fred Nicole did, based on his training experience in 2005, think this was 8C which is of course perfectly fine. If he were to try it now, with a more modern steeper training background, he might just think it is equally hard as some of his other 8B classical test pieces. Surely there are other routes and boulders around the globe that just because of better training facilities, beta and equipment are waiting to get downgraded to better fit the standard of 2020.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Nico Januel has done his second 8C in Fontainebleau, Le dernier fléau. Now he is projecting Bombé bleu, bolted in 1991 in Buoux. "This boulder opened by Seb Frigault is the sit start of mega classical roof problem “Gourmandise” (8B stand start). It adds a crazy monofinger jam in a thin crack before reaching the underclings of the stand start."

All climbers - from seasoned big wall experts to indoor beginners - are invited to complete the International Climbers’ Survey 2019. The survey, published by Vertical-Life in collaboration with the IFSC, is intended to learn more about all climbers’ interests and behaviors in outdoor and indoor climbing. With the Olympics 2020 around the corner, climbing is in the midst of a period of significant changes, such as urbanisation and rapid growth. We would like to find out what climbers love about their sport and how they feel about these developments. Your reward for completing the survey is a voucher for one month of free access to all digital climbing guides on the Vertical-Life app. Additionally, many other great prizes from FiveTen, Salewa and Zlagboard will be raffled off among the participants. Completing it should take no more than 20 minutes. A summary of key results will be shared by Vertical-Life via selected media outlets.

Sam Weir has done his third 8C, The Nest in Red Rocks. Video is coming up and detailed story and more pics on his Insta. "Best boulder I have ever climbed on. Nice v10/11 intro into a one move v12 to a finsh v8 for me. I ended up using daniels beta which uses a 1/4 pad crimp and a one arm pull up. I was not sure this was going to go with all the bad weather but I got one lucky day and it went all nice and chill. Thanks John Sara and Pablo for all the sike and hiking up to wet and un-cliambable condition. Upper end 8C I believe. The BAR. Kinda of like Hypno where it is easy to get close to sending this but its NAILS to actually send."

Drew Ruana, reports on Insta, including a video, that he had a last day best day after a hail mary work before, sending first the stand of Trieste 8B+ and later also the sit 8C. "Mad props to @paulrobinson87 for the FA of this beauty! Definitely the hardest bloc I’ve done yet!" (c) Brennan Robinson When will you start preparing for the Continental Olympic qualification? I don't think I'm gonna compete because I'm just climbing outside now. Earlier this autumn Drew was #13 in the Combined World Championship and as it stands, he could be the one getting the Tripartite ticket to Tokyo. However, if anyone from the USA qualifies through the Continental Championship next spring, the USA has filled their country quota. In practice, Drew will make it to Tokyo if a Canadian wins (or a runner-up after Sean McColl). The idea with the Tripartite ticket is to invite an athlete from a "micro" Olympic nation but as no such athlete did participate in the World CH, it will be given to the next in line from the World CH, respecting the country quota.

IFSC has published the Calender for the European Youth Cups as well as the Euro and World Championships. Here is the list excluding the event with only Speed. 25/4 Trondheim (NOR) - Bouldering (B) 09/5 Soure (POR) - B 16/5 Graz (AUT) - B 30/5 Sofia (BUL) - B 12/6 Imst (AUT) Lead & Speed 20/6 Ostermundigen (SUI) Lead 03/7 Puurs (BEL) Lead & Speed 23-31/08 World Youth Championship Voronezh (RUS) 22-28/10 European Youth Championship Perm (RUS)