NEWS

Three 8A+' by Karo Sinnhuber in Chironico
karoline sinnhuber, #3 in the ranking game, has done two 8A+' in Chironico; Second Life, Conquistador, and Delusion of Grandeur. "Proud line. sticked the 2nd move only that one time when I got to the top - nemesis move haha :-D." (c) Fabian Leu

Two 8B's by Oriane Bertone (14) in Rocklands
Oriane Bertone, who has been appointed the 8a Teenager of 2019, has quickly done two 8B's in Rocklands; Leopard cave extended (video) and Hipster Whale. "I felt it soft. 1 hour to find my beta and solve the problem. I psyched to climb with Reunion Island friends on this boulder !! Thanks for supporting me :-)" Noteworthy is that it is summer in Rocklands with relatively poor conditions compared to June - August. The 14-year-old is #3 in the ranking game. Recently, Adam Ondra said in an interview that Oriane sticks out when it comes to potential juniors that could have an impact on the future scene.

Iceberg 8C by Martin Strรกnรญk
Martin Strรกnรญk, the boulder specialist who was #11 in the Lead WC in 2019, has done his ninth 8C, by the the FA of Iceberg in Moravskรฝ kras. "5 days of work, 16 hard moves without rest, amazing conditions and great jump into year 2020."

Los ultimos vamp... 8c by Totkova (14) and Rusev (13)
Alex Totkova and Niki Rusev, both from Bulgaria, have done Los ultimos vampiros hippies in Margalef. Totakova was the only one beating Oriane Bertone in a competition and she is currently working a 9a. Rusev finished 2019 by doing his second 8b+, Aitzol and he was too young to do any IFSC comps last year.

-

Ataxia Hiperextension 9b FA by Jonathan Guadalcรกzar
Jonathan Guadalcazar has done the FA of Ataxia Hiperextension 9b in Crevillent which adds 15 meters to a 9a+ he did in October. The original Ataxia 9a, he did 20 months ago so it has been a long process linking the full 45 meter route.

1 January 2020

THE ISLAND VOL 0

31 December 2019

Teenager of 2019 - Draft

1. Oriane Bertone -05 2. Chaehyeon Seo -03 3. Laura Rogora -01 4. Alberto Gines Lopez -02 5. Moritz Welt -01 6. Rei Kawamata -03 7. Ai Mori -03 8. Nika Potapova -03, 9. Loic Zehani -01, 10. Alex Totkova -05, Futaba Ito -02, Ema Seliskar -04, Zach Galla -00, Jan Vopat -03, Yuefei Pan -00, Lucka Rakovec -01, Natsuki Tanii -03, Yuetong Zhang -03, Mia Krampl -00, Hirano Natsumi -02, Ashima Shiraishi -01, Vita Lukan -00, Graham Owens -05, Sandra Lettner -01, Shuta Tanaka -00, Brooke Raboutou -01, Hidemasa Nishida -02, Nika Potapova - 03, Keita Doha -00, Sohta Amagasa -00, Ao Yurikusa -02, Junta Sekiguchi - 04, Lucija Tarkus - 03, Martina Demmel -01, Marketa Janosova -04, Angie Scarth-Johnson -04, Camilla Moroni -01, Clothilde Morin -00, Alice Tavola -00, Tesa Film -02, Kintana Iltis -03, Margot Bertone -05, Philipp Gassner -00, Peter Kuric -01, Leon Fraunholz -00, Ben Burkhalter -01, Clay Gordon -01, Kazuma Ise -02, Davide Carena -03, Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi -05, Cameron Hรถrst -00, Simon Weisser -00, Radek Votocek -01, Filip Schenk -00, Lukas Mayerhofer - 00,