NEWS

International Climbersโ€™ Survey 2019 - Participate and win
All climbers - from seasoned big wall experts to indoor beginners - are invited to complete the International Climbersโ€™ Survey 2019. The survey, published by Vertical-Life in collaboration with the IFSC, is intended to learn more about all climbersโ€™ interests and behaviors in outdoor and indoor climbing. With the Olympics 2020 around the corner, climbing is in the midst of a period of significant changes, such as urbanisation and rapid growth. We would like to find out what climbers love about their sport and how they feel about these developments. Your reward for completing the survey is a voucher for one month of free access to all digital climbing guides on the Vertical-Life app. Additionally, many other great prizes from FiveTen, Salewa and Zlagboard will be raffled off among the participants. Completing it should take no more than 20 minutes. A summary of key results will be shared by Vertical-Life via selected media outlets.

The Nest 8C by Sam Weir
19 December 2019

The Nest 8C by Sam Weir

Sam Weir has done his third 8C, The Nest in Red Rocks. Video is coming up and detailed story and more pics on his Insta. "Best boulder I have ever climbed on. Nice v10/11 intro into a one move v12 to a finsh v8 for me. I ended up using daniels beta which uses a 1/4 pad crimp and a one arm pull up. I was not sure this was going to go with all the bad weather but I got one lucky day and it went all nice and chill. Thanks John Sara and Pablo for all the sike and hiking up to wet and un-cliambable condition. Upper end 8C I believe. The BAR. Kinda of like Hypno where it is easy to get close to sending this but its NAILS to actually send."

Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger and commented to 8a. "I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there. Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness."

Fanatic Climbing reports that Nico Januel has done his second 8C in Fontainebleau, Le dernier flรฉau. Now he is projecting Bombรฉ bleu, bolted in 1991 in Buoux. "This boulder opened by Seb Frigault is the sit start of mega classical roof problem โ€œGourmandiseโ€ (8B stand start). It adds a crazy monofinger jam in a thin crack before reaching the underclings of the stand start."

Trieste sit 8C by Drew Ruana
Drew Ruana, reports on Insta, including a video, that he had a last day best day after a hail mary work before, sending first the stand of Trieste 8B+ and later also the sit 8C. "Mad props to @paulrobinson87 for the FA of this beauty! Definitely the hardest bloc Iโ€™ve done yet!" (c) Brennan Robinson When will you start preparing for the Continental Olympic qualification? I don't think I'm gonna compete because I'm just climbing outside now. Earlier this autumn Drew was #13 in the Combined World Championship and as it stands, he could be the one getting the Tripartite ticket to Tokyo. However, if anyone from the USA qualifies through the Continental Championship next spring, the USA has filled their country quota. In practice, Drew will make it to Tokyo if a Canadian wins (or a runner-up after Sean McColl). The idea with the Tripartite ticket is to invite an athlete from a "micro" Olympic nation but as no such athlete did participate in the World CH, it will be given to the next in line from the World CH, respecting the country quota.

IFSC has published the Calender for the European Youth Cups as well as the Euro and World Championships. Here is the list excluding the event with only Speed. 25/4 Trondheim (NOR) - Bouldering (B) 09/5 Soure (POR) - B 16/5 Graz (AUT) - B 30/5 Sofia (BUL) - B 12/6 Imst (AUT) Lead & Speed 20/6 Ostermundigen (SUI) Lead 03/7 Puurs (BEL) Lead & Speed 23-31/08 World Youth Championship Voronezh (RUS) 22-28/10 European Youth Championship Perm (RUS)

The Story Of 2 Worlds 8C by Stefano Carnati
Stefano Carnati, who ten days ago did Dreamtime 8C (B+), has done Dave Graham's classical, The Story Of 2 Worlds8C in Cresciano. The video on his Insta shows the new kneebar beta in the start and also the upside down climbing in the end. "Did The Dagger a few years ago and briefly tried the sit a couple of times this year. Climbed today after a long session. Possibly easier with all the new betas." The name of Graham's FA from 2005, did refer to the grade inflation which basically was stopped due to this boulder. Some thought it was 8C+ at the time. Possibly one reason for the grade inflation back then was that very few did suggest downgrades although better beta was found.

Adam Ondra coffee table book
The first climbing photo book mapping 2 years of Adamโ€™s life has just been released! The book contains a series of unpublished climbing and lifestyle pictures that are accompanied by authentic texts by Adam Ondra. Here you can buy if for Euro 55. Although a Coffee Table Book, for me all his stories were of greater interest. Sure, Adam is obsessed but not just with improving and performing like most. Instead, it seems he genuinely enjoys everything about climbing including reading old school topos at age 7 and bolting by himself in the middle of the night in Flatanger. In between he describes some of the ingredients that fulfill his climbing lifestyle. Sure he knows that he is gifted but it might be reading his thinking you will understand why he has been the best climber in the world for many years know.