Toni Lamprecht, who did his first 8B in 1997, has done two more, 60 watt sonne and Postsexueller sog ins nix, both in Kochel. "The two 8B's are basically sections of a project I'm working on. You could combine the start of "Real Absurdistan" (8C) with the exit of the "60 watt sonne" It is 18m through an 8m roof. A nice goal when I'll be back from ten days skiing and bouldering in Italy. Maybe I'll try Ziqqurat 8C, if the weather is good and the snow is not too high."

Gambaro Matteo, who has put up close to 200 routes, has done the FA of Resilienza mecanica 8c+ in Albenga. "It is a line I bolted two years ago. Hard roof and exit in my 8c, Resistentia Mecanica I bolted the year before. Interesting is that the 45-year-old had his best year ever in 2019. His next goal is to finish his big long term 9a FA project, a combination of two 8c's.

Here are the onsight percentage of the most popular crags. Kalymnos sticks out with 69 %. It might be a good idea to check out the stats for the crags you want to visit also in regards the star rating, where Finale is #1 with 1.5 followed by Céüse with 1.4. Kalymnos 69 % onsight out of 132 172 ascents Leonidio 60 % onsight out of 25 763 ascents Chulilla 59 & onsight out of 32 183 Gorges du Tarn 52 % onsight out of 33 184 ascents Siurana 51 % out of 64 739 ascents Margalef 50 % onsight out of 73 204 ascents Geyik Bayiri 50 % onsight out of 49 106 ascents Arco 49 % onsight out of 48 686 ascents Finale 49 % onsight out of 24 946 ascents Cuenca 48 % onsight out of 36 696 ascents Rodellar 42 % onsight out of 74 653 Red River Gorge 42 % onsight out of 65 814 ascents Céüse 42 % onsight out of 39 979 ascents Frankenjura 37 % % out of 169 046 ascents

Marcello Bombardi, who won the WC in Chamonix in 2017, has done his second 9a, Hakuna Matata in Cubo. It should be mentioned that Cubo is crag with numerous drilled pocket and both Marcello and Adam Ondra, who did the second ascent, of the Alberto Gnerro FA, marked it as chipped. The 164 cm tall was #31 in the Combined WC 2019 and he still has once chance left to make it to Tokyo. His Speed PB is 7.37. "I'm currently training for the European Championship at the end of March where there is one last spot for the Olympics. It will be very hard but as long as there is a chance I will try hard to qualify. If this won't happen then I will happy anyway to take one year focusing only on lead and trying some hard route outside.

Based on almost 1 000 unique votes, "Best climbing shoes 2020?", the Italien brands La Sportiva and Scarpa dominate. 42 % La Sportiva (43 % in 2019) 34 % Scarpa (28 %) 08 % Five Ten (10) 08 % Tenaya (6) 08 % Other (12) This is the tenth year in a row we do this poll and in 2010, La Sportiva got 50 %, Five Ten 25 %, Scarpa 7 %. During the following ten years, the results have been continuing a trend towards the 2020 results.

Fanatic Climbing reports that Quentin Chastagnier has done his third 9a by the FA of Twist Again in Festival crag. He bolted it some five years ago and it is the neighbor to his first 9a he did one year ago. Interesting is that he has done several 8c+' before including some 9a's he has suggested personal downgrades off. (c) Simon Destombes "About the route, it’s something special, a 12 meters long regular 35/40° overhang with pinches, pockets, edges and original moves with a lot of drop knees (which explain the name of the route). It’s a mix of technical and powerful climbing for a fun effort. The start offers two 7B+ boulder problems until an undercling hole rest (around 8c to this point) before an 8A boulder problem and an easy final slab around 6a. Around 9a, and for sure one of the nicest extreme routes around!"

Maho Normand, who started climbing outside last July, has done his first 8c/+, Cannabis Directa in Rouquevaire. The next goal for the 140 cm tall 14-year-old includes routes from 8c to 9a+. Insta "I would like to win another French Cup and join the French national team. My project outside is to make a 9a in Faron before I turn 15, Then to make several classics like Ufo 8c, XXL 8c+ and in the meantime work on Aubade 9a+.

The Guardian has published an interview with Shauna Coxey. Talking about the Combined format, she says among other things, "It’s going to showcase the best of our sport across the disciplines. I think the crowds are going to be amazed with what they see."

jose luis palao has done his tenth 9a via the FA of La catedral del mál in Santuario. It took him 15-20 days of projectingnot counting sections shared with other routes. "It is a 25m route with a first part of 8c+, including a technical boulder with knees. After a good rest it continues with an 8c. Very happy to finish this process for me after also bolting it."