NEWS

Cathy Wagner has done Le Coq 8a in Mejannes, giving it a personal 8a down grade, and Soltitud in Pratdip, on her second go. "Another amazing route! A great line, some physical moves but weird bolting." In total the 54-year-old has now done 748 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most by all female. Interesting is that she has done like one third of them on her second go.

One Hundred Proof 9a+ FA by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his tenth 9a+, by doing the FA of One Hundred Proof in Mt Potosi. On Insta he reports, "Iโ€™ve been inching my way higher and higher on this monstrous route over the last 2 weeks, but the process really started over a month ago trying hard on its easier sibling โ€˜Smoke Wagonโ€™." The latter is a 9a is another FA by him, meaning he has done a total of 47 routes 9a to 9b. In he 8a ranking game, he is #3. Next up is a one month trip to Italy. "I've never climbed there. Very excited."

In 2011, a part of Hampi village, the biggest boulder area in India, was destroyed by bulldozers. Last week the supreme court decided that the whole village will be destroyed and that all inhabitants will have to move out. Sign a petition and more info.

Two 8B FAs by Toni Lamprecht (48)
Toni Lamprecht, who did his first 8B in 1997, has done two more, 60 watt sonne and Postsexueller sog ins nix, both in Kochel. "The two 8B's are basically sections of a project I'm working on. You could combine the start of "Real Absurdistan" (8C) with the exit of the "60 watt sonne" It is 18m through an 8m roof. A nice goal when I'll be back from ten days skiing and bouldering in Italy. Maybe I'll try Ziqqurat 8C, if the weather is good and the snow is not too high."

Resilienza mecanica 8c+ FA by Matteo Gambaro (45)
Gambaro Matteo, who has put up close to 200 routes, has done the FA of Resilienza mecanica 8c+ in Albenga. "It is a line I bolted two years ago. Hard roof and exit in my 8c, Resistentia Mecanica I bolted the year before. Interesting is that the 45-year-old had his best year ever in 2019. His next goal is to finish his big long term 9a FA project, a combination of two 8c's.

19 February 2020

Kalymnos 69 % onsight

Here are the onsight percentage of the most popular crags. Kalymnos sticks out with 69 %. It might be a good idea to check out the stats for the crags you want to visit also in regards the star rating, where Finale is #1 with 1.5 followed by Cรฉรผse with 1.4. Kalymnos 69 % onsight out of 132 172 ascents Leonidio 60 % onsight out of 25 763 ascents Chulilla 59 & onsight out of 32 183 Gorges du Tarn 52 % onsight out of 33 184 ascents Siurana 51 % out of 64 739 ascents Margalef 50 % onsight out of 73 204 ascents Geyik Bayiri 50 % onsight out of 49 106 ascents Arco 49 % onsight out of 48 686 ascents Finale 49 % onsight out of 24 946 ascents Cuenca 48 % onsight out of 36 696 ascents Rodellar 42 % onsight out of 74 653 Red River Gorge 42 % onsight out of 65 814 ascents Cรฉรผse 42 % onsight out of 39 979 ascents Frankenjura 37 % % out of 169 046 ascents

Marcello Bombardi, who won the WC in Chamonix in 2017, has done his second 9a, Hakuna Matata in Cubo. It should be mentioned that Cubo is crag with numerous drilled pocket and both Marcello and Adam Ondra, who did the second ascent, of the Alberto Gnerro FA, marked it as chipped. The 164 cm tall was #31 in the Combined WC 2019 and he still has once chance left to make it to Tokyo. His Speed PB is 7.37. "I'm currently training for the European Championship at the end of March where there is one last spot for the Olympics. It will be very hard but as long as there is a chance I will try hard to qualify. If this won't happen then I will happy anyway to take one year focusing only on lead and trying some hard route outside.