NEWS

Supercrackinette 9a+ by Julia Chanourdie
Julia Chanourdie, who previously has done two 9a's and who has qualified to Tokyo, has done Supercrackinette 9a+ in Saint-Lรฉger. (c) Mรฉlanie Cannacยจ Fanatic Climbing reports that she has projected it for two months. The FA wasmade by Alex Megos and later Adam Ondra and Jerome Pouvreau have done it confirming the grade.

Mojo rising 8c+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni, who made the FA of Legacy 9a in Rocklands last summer, has done the FA of Mojo rising 8c+ in Valle Bavona. It took him a total of three days to bolt it, clean it and climb it. (c) Cameron Maier "I'll keep climbing new boulders and bolting new routes in Bavona but I am also psyched to get on The Understanding (8C) and Force Tranquille (8C) when they will be dry."

Martina Demmel (18) amazing progress via onsight and outdoor focus
Martina Demmel has been climbing for three years out of which the last two years she has only climbed outdoors! Amazingly, the 18-year-old is #2 in the 8a ranking game and it is almost only about onsights. 18 months after she started to climb she onsighted her first 7c. Checking all her 8a's and harder, more than 50 % she has done second go, including two 8b+'s the last three weeks. More pics on her Insta. "I've always been a lot in the mountains with my parents since I could walk and I always loved it to be outside but never had something to do with climbing. Then 2017, a friend took me to our local little climbing cellar and I immediately fell in love with these movements and everything that comes with climbing like travelling, seeing new landscapes and cultures and meeting new people from all over the world. The first year, I mainly climbed indoors and just had around 20 days on rock but in spring 2018, I had enough of these dusty gyms and since then I'm only climbing on rock. I only climb on rock, I don't do any other training for power or endurance. But I do a lot of stretching every day which helps me pretty much especially because I'm quite small (1,57m) and I try to do some antagonist training two times per week. Just to see as many beautiful places as possible and to push my limits further but there's no real goal to climb a certain grade rather a few stunning lines I've in my mind and for sure to always do it just because I truly love it. I'm just a random girl who loves the climbing lifestyle nothing really special...

Jeremiah Low 8B by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio, who previoulsy has done five 8B+', has done her 32nd 8B, Jeremiah Low in Coal Creek. (c) Bodyenroute "Haven't been climbing or training all that much over the last 3 weeks so I was pleasantly surprised with a cheeky little send today on this boulder. ;) Had to try a bit harder than wanted, but pulled it out I guess." The last weeks, Alex has done several training clinics and had a sinus infection so that is why she has taken it easy the last period.

Le Cadafist 9a by Hugo Parmentier
hugo parmentier has had his, "Most unbelievable and crazy ascent ever. Super pumped, super long, fucking epic 3days," while doing Le Cadafist 9a in St Lรฉger. During the same trip he also did La ligne claire 8c+ and both routes just took five goes each. More comments on Insta. "With the impression I could never to it, I barely stuck the reachy mouv and grabbed the final jug. All of this to say that I've had the strongest and most intense feeling I ever experienced in climbing. It was unbelievable and crazy."

Off the Wagon sit 8C+ by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods has done Shawn Raboutou's Off the Wagon sit 8C+ in Valle Bavona. (c) Mary Macklenburg How did you prepare and how many sessions did it take? Spent like 11 days total (7 last year. 4 for stand and 3 for sit). Nothing too crazy for training. Was injured in November so took two months off and had like three weeks to prep in January for the trip I am currently on. In that three weeks I climbed at Tension alot and used the Moonboard a bit. I was just stoked when I got to swiss and immediately started trying a ton of hard shit. In the first couple weeks of climbing I rotated through trying Wagon, a couple 8B+s, an 8C, 8B, and did some 8As. Eventually my body just became accustomed to rock and hard moves, sent some hard rigs, got confidence, then it was time to take down Wagon." More comments on his Insta.

IFSC has postponed the Combined European Championship in Moscow and also the Bouldering World Cup in Meiringen. IFSC Europe has said that there will be no European senior or youth comps in April and May. "Our goal is to hold some events later in the season, so we will try to postpone rather then cancel, whenever possible."

Victimes del Futur 9a (8c+) by Alex Totkova (15)
Alex Totkova, the only junior who did beat Oriane Bertone in a comp last year, has done Victimes del Futur 9a (8c+) in Margalef. (c) Fazabrushes "The route is really steep with small pockets that suit me. There is a rest before the crux. At the beginning I was taking the crux pocket with right hand but one day before going home I tried the original (left hand) beta and did it too. On the last day of our trip I didโ€™t know which beta is better. The try before I send it I was so close with the original (left hand) but my foot slipped. I was nervous because I knew that I have only one more go....... booom :)" More info and pics on her Insta..

IFSC has sent a mail to the mayor of Moscow asking their European Championship, starting in nine days, to be rescheduled to June. The Danish Climbing Federation has decided to cancel the Nordic Championship in Copenhagen scheduled to this weekend due to the Coronavirus. USA Climbing has, among other things, postponed their Open Nation Championship. Kletterzentrum Innsbruck has said they allow only 100 rope climbers and 100 boulders. You are only allowed to climb for four hours. UKC reports that CWIF in Sheffield this weekend will only be allowed for spectators.